According to http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=530507 kmarei says:
The X3 has (2) fuse blocks:
Fuse Block #1 is behind the glove box and is accessed through the removable panel at the far right at the back of the open glove box. The fuses are (5) or (6) inches behind the back of the glove box and will probably take someone with a very thin wrist or better yet, a surgical forceps or very long nose pliers to change. This fuse block houses fuses Nos. 1 through No. 67.
Fuse Block No. 2 is housed in the right rear fender. To access it you must remove the small right rear storage cover (pull firmly on the black hand hold). Then you must remove the plastic "push rivet" at the rear of the insulation cover. Pry the center pin out with a screwdriver or small knife, and then completely remove the plastic "rivet". Then simply roll the insulation cover forward and you will find the fuse block.
Fuse block No. 2 houses fuses Nos. 100 to No. 204.
The sheet listing the fuse locations for BOTH fuse blocks is folded and stored in a slot at the bottom of the fuse block (No. 2).
Or: Try watching this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ph-KB7LIu0 if I helped you, please let me know. :)
Mr. Williams.
just take it to your mechanic who will fill it with watter and by using a radiator pressure test tool will immediately give you the answer and the cost of repair.
Have you traced the hot wire up to the source to see where is loses voltage, you have to do that. You will need a 12 volt test light, about $5 at any auto parts store or sears.
If it is black sooty smoke injectors are putting to much fuel into the cylinders so they may need to be tested
Whitish grey smoke could be extra oil burning due to busted cylinder rings or head gasket allowing coolant into cylinder
I would suggest taking it to a shop... however if you have the means there is a plug on the transmission that you remove and if fluid drips out it is good if no fluid then add. There is no dipstick
You might have transmission problem. It could be low fluid level or could be an internal transmission failure. I suggest you to have the fluid level checked for quality. Another thing you can try to reset your transmission. BMW transmission would help you to know about the transmission better.
This will depend on the color of the smoke. A bluish color would indicate that you are burning oil. There may be bad oil seals somewhere in the engine. A common place where oil comes in is in the spark plug. Inspect the plugs for oil. Each of the holes for the plugs has rubber seals which prevents oil from entering. Have the plugs replaced if it has been fouled and the rings.
If it is a white color, it is antifreeze or radiator fluid that you are burning. Check the head gasket. If it is a black colored smoke, you are running rich. Try cleaning the intake with a electrical cleaner spray to clean out the MAF sensor. Check also if your O2 sensor has been disconnected.
At times the engine light does not turn on but there are cases that an error may have been detected in the past. It would also be a good idea to use a scanner to retrieve errors. Some shops would let you borrow one. If there is an error it would help us determine the problem accurately.
The last post is correct, but I also have a few tips and pictures.
1. Open hood. 2. Use a small flat screwdriver to CAREFULLY pry open cap leading to the headlight. Start directly underneath the tab that says "V2." Be careful not to break the tabs! -- to do this simply push the small screwdriver under the, as you push it in, you will hear the clip release. The cap will pop and remove very easily after that. 3. Pull out wires, unplug burned out bulb - this clips in with what I can see is a spring clip. I reccomend using a cloth when removing and replacing the bulb. This will protect your hand if the bulb breaks by accident. Also some halogen bulbs will pop/break if your hands leave oily residue on the bulb. When the bulb heats, the oil heats too and can break the bulb.
sounds like a short between the mirror control wire and the passenger side unlock wire, probably the wires have rubbed trough the insulation, you have to locate the wires and put some insulation tape on the spot they have rubbed trough,
I'm sorry but i laughed in dismay when I read your problem. The dealer is an idiot clear and simple. It is perfectly reasonable for you to expect the handbrake to be disengaged if the indicator is off. Yes it is quite possible to drive the car with the handbrake on but you would feel it no question. However if it was only slightly engaged there would indeed be some wear on the rear brakes. The handbrake has merely got a thin metal cable that runs underneath your car that splits into two separate cables which in turn connect to the rear left and right brakes. So there aren't any extra brakes for the handbrake just the ones which are on the rear wheels.
Of course the other thing is you may have a faulty handbrake indicator light. So it's not really about who's fault it is but where the fault lies on the car. I'd go and check out a local garage unless of course your car is still under warranty. If it is go to another dealer and armed with the info above don't let them fool you Good luck and i hope you get it sorted
You have a battery problem the battery needs to be replaced. Some of the cells may be bad. Water getting on battery should not affect battery's performance. Here is some advice take your vehicle or the battery to an Auto-Zone and the can do a load test on your battery to make sure it bad. If you can take the vehicle with the battery in then they can do a complete charging system check and make sure that your alternator is working fine. Good Luck contact me if you need more help.
