20 Most Recent 2009 Mazda MAZDA6 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

couple things to check out.check the fuel pressure with a gauge it should 35lbs plus or minus 2.if its too low then replace pump,if its good then check fuel pump volume it should be about a pint in 10/15 seconds.if this is low replace pump.make sure you replace the fuel filter as well.the other thing to check is the exhaust for a restriction.you can do a back pressure test at the converter by removing the O2 sensor and install a backpressure gauge and starting and idling the motor,the pressure should be less than .2 and then increase the rpm to 2000/2500 it should be less than 2lbs.if its more then you more than likely have a plugged catalytic convertor,and need replacing.tap along the exhaust to see if you hear any rattling or dents(crushed) pipes.if you hear a rattle chances are the catalyst has come apart and will need to be removed from the exhaust when the converter is replaced.check for codes in the computer as not all codes will turn on the check engine light.you could have a worn out throttle position sensor(tps) it will have to be check with high quility volt meter

Grinding noise upon turning is normally one of two issues. First, and most often, it is caused by a worn out outer CV joint. If your vehicle has more than 50000 miles on it and the axle shafts have never been replaced, this is what I would suspect first. In addition, CV noise will be louder when turning under power (gas pedal pressed) than when coasting into a turn. The other possibility is a front wheel bearing assembly. These are not as common, but do wear out as well. The wheel bearings will usually make no noise when going straight, but will make noise upon even the slightest side to side turn. CVs on the other hand, usually grind only when going into corners or making left or right turns. If you suspect a CV joint, but don't have high mileage, you could have a torn CV boot that resulted in the grease that lubricates the joint being depleted and causing the noise. You can inspect the out boots visually for tears....grease leaking out usually leaves telltale spatters in the wheel wells also. Replacement of the CV joint can be done, but it is usually cheaper to replace the entire axle shaft as they are serviced as a unit.

This is a well known problem with your engine. The idle is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), which is driven by a little motor controlled by the car's computer. The valve is dirty and sticky. Once cleaned it should work fine. There is a lot on the Net about it, just Google Corolla Idle Air Control Valve

check for sensor problems with obdII scanner, sounds like the car is going too rich on hard throttle

2.3L 4 cylinder? After removing the plastic engine cover, look at the top of the ignition coil.


It should be numbered 1 through 4.

This is plug number 1 on the engine:


Just wire them 1, 2, 3 and 4 to the corresponding numbers on the ignition coil.

best wishes

You can look it up online at one of the auto parts websites, or check with your local store. The voltage regulator mounts on the back of the alternator, but it costs more than a rebuilt alternator does.