20 Most Recent 2008 Ford Escape Questions & Answers

There is a defect in the instrument panel circuit.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Sep 27, 2019

block heaters are aftermarket so there isn't a specific location for that vehicle, However i can tell you that they are usually located in a freeze plug hole in the side of the block. if you look at your engine block just above your oil pan you will see several circular plugs, one of the plugs will have two prongs sticking out of it, and that will be where your plug connects. good luck.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Jun 02, 2019

I'm interested in a 2008 Ford escape hybrid with 80,000 miles do it has a timing belt or chain and when it's time to change it

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on May 03, 2019

If you do not have a blown fuse. Look at this link and it will tell you what size fuse goes where. If you are missing a fuse you can replace it with the right size fuse. I do not see cigarette lighter on the list.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Apr 13, 2019

You may have a transmission failure due to inadequate lube flow. This can happen during warm up and cold weather. Your transmission probably needs rebuilt or replaced and then install a transmission fluid cooler bypass kit.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Apr 09, 2019

There is a self adjusting pulley that is spring loaded and works when properly included when the belt is installed properly. There should be a diagram of proper routing on a white decal under the hood. Good luck.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 25, 2019


2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 18, 2019


2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 13, 2019

I have no experience with this but the thought that comes to mind is a pocket of air in the engine being transferred through the heater hoses. LONG SHOT a wild guess.
I think if it were with the engine air it would reduce the performance of the car.
I found this link with many complaints about noise and the odd thing some sound like yours, solved a couple by rotating the front tires. Odd but I have put the link on here.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Aug 27, 2018

In old vehicles I would say follow the Positive cable from the battery to the starter. Look like this car is like my grandma sentra the starter is up top.
Hear is a link which I think may help.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Aug 27, 2018

Hi Jim, You may need to check the hinges and adjust the locking mechanisms. If the door has a spare attached the weight can damage the hinges. Regards John

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Aug 12, 2018

Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Jul 22, 2018

I had got its manual from online store www.reliable-store.com Here's the site link I am sure they will help you

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Mar 12, 2018

Sounds as if the bulbs are bad, but could also be a failed multi-purpose switch.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 10, 2018

You have a high pressure fuel pump in the tank the engine must be off when fueling and you must run the pump slow because the force of the flow causes the pump to click off also when you turn the gas cap to remove it do you here any noise a swoosh sound and is the cap very hard to turn to loosen it if so your getting vapor lock and your fuel pressure regulator is bad but it just might be the high flow pressure from the gas pump try another gas station and again run it slow if the same thing happens investigate the fuel stem this is where you put the gas in but at the tank side check the rubber hose it maybe bent was the car in a rear end collision that you know if? If so the tank could be misaligned causing the bending of the stem/hose post back with more info ok and I'll get you there I just need you to go through the process of elimination and I'm a taxi mechanic in NYC with 50 years experience in all fazes of automotive repairs collision work to ok remember that I'm not there at the vehicle so you need to be my eyes and ears ok thanks Stephen

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 09, 2018

This for base radio system, non-hybrid, 08 ford escape.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 07, 2018

If you do it yourself the drain plug takes a 3\8 ratchet.

2008 Ford Escape | Answered on Jan 03, 2018

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