Nissan Xterra - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Where is the purge solenoid located on a 2008 nissan xterra at

We're is the camshaft sensors on a 2002 Nissan Xterra SE.. trying to replace both sensors

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. There are three fuses and a relay that cover the blower. Radio probably has an inline fuse, but they are also monitored by the Body control Module.

Nissan Xterra (WD22; 1999-2004) fuses and relays

https://fuse-box.info > nissan > nissan-xterra-wd22-199... Fuse box diagram - Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Nissan Xterra 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004, get information about the location of the ...

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. All here for the three engine types https://www.autozone.com/diy/repair-guides/nissan-frontier-xterra-1998-05-torque-specifications-repair-guide-p-0996b43f8037fa5c https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Nissan+Xterra.+cylinder+head+bolt+sequence+and+torque+specs ..

my answers are do a tuneup and use tools and do test to find cause. not me guessing. okk? no MILES on car told. 100k 150k ,2ook are you ignoring the cam belt v6 , not replaced at 60 to 100k miles and if snaps engine is now a wreck.????? means this old belt 2000 old. 23 years old is no GOOD. turn it over means? cranking but does it crank fast or slow. ???? if fast that is cranks fast no start engine. no engine told at all, no clues. 3.3L USA engines is common here.v6 or 2.4L I4???? 6 engines used word wide but not USA. and 2 diesel engines, you never said DIESEL. 2.4L is chain drive cam , 3.3L is belt. (key point ) I will guess the V6 usa spec engine, if engine is good , compression tests pass. (a tool) and fails to start, there are these reasons all fuses checked good,transmission can shift all gears. you said GAS so I guess gasoline, not LPG or the like. only good clue was GAS.( and engine runs bad) 2nd google clue is smoke+ flooding, sure.!! wasted fuel sure. first off no engine runs good if spark is bad (otto cycle gas) nor if engine is bad. (compression below 150psi) a tool. my wild guess, no tune up done nor new cam belt ever put in V6. (right)? service history matters. checks ,actions and tests, using tools. v6 gas. 1: spark parts bad. ( called a full tuneup)and cam belt 2 new distributor cap,. rotor , 6 new spark wires and 6 new spark lugs, (a tune up and new air filter.) now spark is good. 3(so when it does not start scan the oBD2 port with a scan tool. see P03xx errors ????????? 4:fuel pressure at spec, idling and throttle max for 1second (called gunning engine(right foot) using a tool. fuel rail pressure tests using a TOOL. 5: fuel pressure too high is FPR bad. or too low. FPR is on the fuel RAIL. and loves to fail this old. !!!!! fuel pressure reg. (tested with a tool, during injector bala Learn: the dealer can NOT find it because it ran perfect that day so they feel compelled to guess. (and make money) buy your own scan tool and not go broke at dealers. learn to do a tune up first (called service points) (so when it does not start scan the oBD2 port with a scan tool. and behold P3xx errors or others. called by kids today me scan tool throws a code sure a DTC. write them all down and get help.

Probably issues with Shift Solenoids. You need a transmission specialist or an auto electrician with a pro grade bi-directional scan tool computer that can tell the solenoids to operate and confirm that they did. Or it is the powertrain module that is at fault.

HOW HIGH IS TOO HIGH RPM? (NO TACHOMETER?) NO ENGINE TOLD OF MANY SO ANSWERS NOW GO GENERIC. ALL ENGINES CARS, FAST IDLE LOCK IS BASED ON ECT SENSOR COOLANT TEMPS, AND COLDER IT IS THE FASTER IT GOES. EVEN BY EPA LAW USA. cold is 1500 to 2500 most cars. pcm logic hard facts. and tables. fluctuates is super bad and dangerous A.K.A SURGE. there is no pat answer to this, so many engines. but here are some.

• IAC BAD. (IDLEAIR CONTROLEER VALVE) THERMAL
• ISC STUCK (IDLE SPEED CONTORLLER ELECTRIC.
• THERMOSTAT BAD, OR MISSING.
• ECT READS WRONG/ Most times see 1 line up.
• VACUUM LEAKS FROM VAST THINGS. (YES VAST)
• PCM IN LIMPHOME MODE NOT SCANNED AND IDLE CONTROLS 100% OFF LINE. AND SURGING.
• GROSS MISFIRING.
• GROSS LEAN BURN AND SURGE.
• other sensors failing hard and you not scanning PCM miss the boat.

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. There are so many things it could be. The only way to diagnose is with a pro grade scan tool computer which checks all the modules and sensors. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

Hit a kerb? Tyre pressures incorrect? Broken wishbone? Etc etc etc.

https://www.modifiedlife.com/2005-nissan-xterra-stereo-wire-schematic/

There are some ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+nissan+xterra+clicking+noise+in+4wd

You are going to do a few tests before we can say a starter failed. First do you hear a loud click in start position? If not go to starter and test for power. Large post should always have power. Small wire should have power in start position . If no power to small wire ,you're going upstream to neutral safety switch and ign switch. If it's getting power in start position, have someone hold in start position and tap on starter with a hammer. If it starts replace starter. If still no startcheck battery,ground cable for failure

recheck install either incorrectly done or something got disconnected

There is a sweet spot to turning the wheel to try to turn the key while the wheel is locked. It is not just wiggling it back and forth. You need to make sure that it is in the small window of movement between points where it stops. Just between the stop points, not on either one. Go slow and have some patience with it, it can take a couple of tries. As for the issues of crank no start, it can be for a couple reasons. No spark and/or no fuel. It sounds like you have changed the distributor so checking the spark plugs and wires would be next in that case. Checking the plugs to make sure they don't have a lot of deposits on them and are not wet. Plug wires should have good sheaths on them and no burnt parts/pieces on the wire. Make sure they are plugged in tightly. Since you replaced the distributor, check to make sure the plugs are in the right order for the vehicle. For the fuel side of it, if you can hear the fuel pump working, (a slight whirring sound), when you turn the key without starting the vehicle, check the fuel filter. If you cannot hear the fuel pump working, it may need to be replaced. You can try a simple but very temporary test to see if it is the pump by having someone tap on the bottom of the tank near the center with a rubber mallet, while you try to start the vehicle. If the vehicle fires up, you will know that the fuel pump is the culprit. If it still doesn't fire then you will know after testing all other things that it will need to be replaced.

no fuse for anti theft ---lock and unlock manually only thing is if to slow to put key in ignition alarm will go off but goes off/ resets when turn key order a new fob online their cheap

Evap. Canister - It looks like some kind of BLACK filter box and can be located under the car perhaps around the Gas tank area) or under the Hood area . It may be about 14 inches long x 8 inches wide and 5 inches thick. The solenoid sensor on this canister can go bad causing an EVAP code on an OBD reader.

Get the factory repair manual from nissan it will show you all tech specs on rebuilding it.

Yes my car died on me yesterday and it wouldn't start diagnostic machine through the code first sensor I bought a new sensor went to change it my old sensor wasn't even hooked up to anything and I can't find the wire that it goes to

I would check your battery connections, make sure they're snug. If they're fine, try jump starting your Xterra, the battery may be dead or close to dead.
Hope this helps!
JT

Easiest way i kniw to donit is crawl underneath use ya cables n hook to the battery side on the starter the one xable leading from the top that will power your system to open ya doors and start it