Mini Cooper - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If the top of your 2013 Mini Cooper Roadster is not retracting, there could be a few possible reasons why. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take:

1. Check the hydraulic fluid level: The retractable roof on a Mini Cooper Roadster is powered by a hydraulic system that requires hydraulic fluid to function properly. Check the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir located in the trunk of the vehicle. If the fluid level is low, refill it to the recommended level and try to retract the roof again.
2. Check the fuse: The roof system may have a dedicated fuse that could have blown, preventing the roof from retracting. Check the owner's manual or the fuse box to locate the fuse for the roof system and replace it if necessary.
3. Check for obstructions: If there are any obstructions or debris on the roof, it may prevent it from retracting properly. Inspect the roof and the tracks for any debris and remove it carefully.
4. Reset the roof system: If the roof system has become out of sync or is stuck, resetting the system may help. Refer to the owner's manual for instructions on how to reset the roof system.
5. Seek professional help: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it may be a mechanical or electrical problem that requires professional help. Contact a certified mechanic or dealership for diagnosis and repair of the roof system.

By following these troubleshooting steps, you may be able to identify and resolve the issue with your Mini Cooper Roadster's retractable roof.

could b da fuse or ground or hard drive

Go to the dealer, do not pass go, do not... You get the drift. The Transmission will function in a limited manner, but is not in a happy place.As for a class action, go to North American Motoring and check the forums. They will probably have information on any action involving Mini's. They are at http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/

Unfortuantely it sounds like you need to use an old fashioned coat hanger to CAREFULLY squeeze through the window edge and use to unlock the door. Take a wooden spoon or something similar to squeeze between the front and rear glass pushing the seal inward and making room for the coat hanger. You can also use duct tape on the window to grip it and slowly lower it enough to unlock it, this is using several strips of tape and pulling down as straight as possible holding the bunch of tape ends. Search the internet for a better example, but, it works.

The door locks in the R53, R50, and R52 are controlled by the BC1 control module. Unless someone has changed the wiring that would be your #1 suspect. You can try to change the settings in the BC1 if you have the BMW program NCS Expert or the BMW Coding tool available. Unfortunately, water sometimes drains down into that specific module and causes issues. Other than that, you're left at the mercy of the stealership. Best of luck.

You can adjust the boot to close a bit more on both sides to see if that won't take care of the light issue. As I remember it's on the right side so just adjust that one first a bit to get it to close a bit tighter. You can also unplug the connection at the latch if the light bothers you until you fix it.

Number 1 tip when changing batteries is to maintain 12 volts to the battery connectors during the change over. You can do this with a battery minder, a battery charger, jump leads or just a couple of lengths of wire. You need to reset the security system immobilizer. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Mini+Cooper+S+reset+security ..

possible not probable as the connectors are different, have tire checked and if OK take car back and have the TP problem fixed at not charge.

Did you disconnect the battery are any stage or let it go flat? Security System Reset? You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose and work out where the issue is.

This is a very common problem on Mini and even happened to mine in the late 1970s. https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+Mini+Cooper+jumping+out+of+6th+gear ..

Are the connectors actually wired the same? Check the wiring diagrams for each seat if you can find them, otherwise trace the wiring from the internal components in the seat to the connector and make sure the heaters are going to heater power pins in the original harness, and temperature sensors are going to temperature sensor pins (temperature sensors may be polarized, that is, it makes a difference which pin goes to positive and which to ground).

check and test motor--hydro pressure

To be sure you need to hook up a scanner and read the code when you see the light on. It's not unusual for Mini's to do this for a couple of usual reasons. One is due to the Oxygen sensor getting a short term reading that is out of the norm causing the light to come on. Various things can cause this including Injectors, mechanical condition, o-rings, even fuel changes from one station to another can trigger this on cars. It goes off later because it's a temporary issue and the car adjusts itself after so many starts. One other reason is the fuel cap not being tightened properly, that usually is fixed when you refuel and retighten the cap properly or just tighten the cap.

Check your fuses! Failing that it may be a faulty relay!

My Mini Cooper S 2009 was hesitating and not running at full power Check engine ligth came on.. Dealer Cleaned Head gaskets UNDER WARRANTy for build ups, apparently Common in S models and 2009's tonight completely lost compression and power while driving on Highway at nigth CAR DIED in the road TOWED to dealer awaiting update

Not sure what your question is? I would charge up the battery with a good quality charger. Most are digital nowadays and usually have some diagnostics available. I mention this because if so you will want to diagnose the alternator as well as the battery performance. One or both might be out of commission. Failing that get the battery to a service center and they can determint if the battery is good. Also investigate the starter relay if both the other two check out good. Have fun, -J

the engine control unit has detected a fault light illuminated which in turn reduces ability to gain high revs as a damage limitation exercise , known as limp home , car requires diagnostic computer to check fault codes to indicate faulty component causing ecu to go into limp home mode

Check all fuses. Inspect all the wiring you can see. If a mouse chewed them up, maybe it could cause this?If that doesn't fix it, sounds like you have a defect in the circuit board in the Instrument panel display.

verify the gearshift linkage on the gearbox could be a beginning of the end or the sincron on the gearbox is start to fail

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