Honda CRX - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 6

try to check this link:

http://carservicemanuals.blogspot.com/2008/06/download-1985-1987-honda-civic-service.html

No you don't have to replace the ignition switch unless it has been causing some sort of issue. Good luck and happy motoring.

i would try it. you have nothing to lose. you are probably really good at taking it apart by now anyway. good luck...matt

Hi,

Even if your going to fill it with a gallon of brake fluid, it will surely darin for a couple of minutes.

Plese check where could be the brake fluid leaks out. You could check first on all the wheels if the inner side is wet with the fluid, that means one of those wet tyre's brake caliper/cylinder is busted.

Check also the brake hoses and metal tubings, that has a fluid leak.

Check the brake master, underneath the brake master might have a fluid leakage.


As soon you found out where the leakage is, tow or bring your car to the nearest garage and have them fix it.


Hope that helps you out!



thanks for using Fixya!

what car?

HAVE YOU CHECK THE DOOR SWITCHES ?

if its not pumping, its bad.

there are two types of crx currently the gen 1 built thru 87, and the gen 2 from 88 thru 91. unless you count the Delsol as a CRX which it is but is'nt but has very simular parts.
Now the seatbelts you are asking about are either door mounted or chassis mounted. If they are door mounted you will need the factory mounted bolts from the doors of a factory 88 thru 91 crx and modified door panels to accept seatbelt as well as the fact that since the door is only a half door you will have to contened with ducking under the seatbelt to exit the car due to the fact that the seat belt will now be connected to the door instead of the chassis to ensure safty of the driver and passenger, Unless you were to fabricate a plate that could hold the top portion of the seatbelt attached to the door.
Now if it is a factory chassis mounted seatbelt look you want then now you have to think about bolt placement and look very cautiously at the mount to the chassis on the shoulder side to see if the bracket will interchange without any major modification but at this point it might be best to get a 5 point Simpson harness instead.
Anything is possible as long as you fallow thru with the thought of the safty of yourself and any other passenger you may have, Either way you will have some welding to do and some well thought out plans to accomplish your goal, Nothing is Impossible, unless you want to plan a "perfect" vacation out of state.

NOT 100 PERCENT BUT I THINK ITS UPPER HOSE ON MOTOR. COMMENT BACK @ ME

if its unplugged in steering wheel, then every time you turn the wire end is hitting metal and grounding out. have a good day!!

For this engine the valve lash if; Intake .007-.009 and the exhaust valves are .009-.011. Be sure to adjust these when the engine is cold, as a warm exgine will affect the measurements. The locknuts should be torqued to 10 ft/lbs. REMEMBER..."loose is good"..in other words when adjusting the valves DO NOT make them "tight feeling" with the feeler gauge. If you do, you run the very real danger of burning the valves. Honda, I believe, recommends that you should check these every 15k to 24k miles. Happy motoring !

My main concern is that in 1990 Honda offered 2 engines...the D15B1 or the D16A6. I am going to assume that the engine in question is a D16A6, and the torque specs is; 47 ft/lbs for cylinder head bolts. When installing the bolts, dip them in CLEAN motor oil before inserting them into the block, and then tighten them as follows; there are 5 bolts in the front of the head, and 5 bolts in the rear. For the sake of explaination the front bolts are numbered from left to right...1,2,3,4,5 and the rear bolts are numbered from left to right...6,7,8,9,10. The correct tightening sequence for this arrangement would be; 3,8,2,9,4,7,5,6,1,10. I would recommend tightening the bolts to ~26 ft/lbs the first round, and then to 47 ft/lbs for the final round. Hope that this helps.

Assuming this is front wheel drive, most likely worn CV (Constant Velocity) joints which connect the transmission output to the wheels. Also check the wheel are secure, nuts are tight, trims are in place and nothing rolling around inside them.

If you're getting spark, fuel, and all the electrical is good, id start with checking the cylinder compression.

If that turns up nothing the timing may have jumped.

A B16A with no number fallowing it is a JDM engine. If it was a B16A1 for example it is a USDM engine. As for the idle problem its probably a tps sensor and if it idles really low rpms you should up the idle at the trottle body to idle at 800 rpms to be safe, To low of a idle will cause bearings to go out and throw a rod.
Lookj at the valve cover if it is a jdm you will know if it is a SIR or a SIR2, SIR has larger font for the DOHC and smaller font for the VTech The sir2 has larger font Vtech and smaller font DOHC. The SIR2 also has oil jets underside of pistons and rods to help lubricate piston rod conections.

Hi. Here's how to remove the car starter. Begin the starter removal by first disconnecting the wires leading to it. Next unbolt the starter by loosening the through-bolts and sliding them out while supporting the starter with your other hand.Wiggle and pull the starter out to disengage the gears and lift it from the engine for inspection or replacement. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/elixirjose_00375ea24bd8141b

If your vehicle has done a high mileage then it is time that the oil rings are worn out. If on the other hand there was a poor maintenance schedule , like changing of engine oil within a correct mileage, then you engine can be damaged.
the oil comes over to the combustion chamber to burn off , in such case you will get smoke in the exhaust.
If there is oil dripping due to any damage the oil levels can drop.
finally an oil seal along the drive shafts, the transmission side can also reduce oil.
so check this out.

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Thank you for using FixYa.com, Regards, Lee Davidian

most likely it is on the passenger side under the dash

maybe a plugged up converter. unhook it and see if car speeds up