Perhaps the battery won't take a charge. If it's a few years old, quite possible. Other than that, check the cable connections. Put your multimeter on the battery terminals with the engine running. If it's showing around 14V then it's all good and your battery isn't taking that charge
The service and repair manual with pictures and diagram will help you to locate and fix the problem on your own easily and you will get the manual from the given link http://toolsnyou.com/
Test with a voltmeter , metal tab's on top of fuse , should have battery voltage on both tab's . Don't go by look's good , test to know for sure . Look at a wiring diagram an test the whole electrical circuit to find the problem . Doesn't it work at any speed ? Does it have manual or automatic climate control ?
TechConnect Ep 37 How To Test Chevy Blower Motor Resistor DR775
The best solution you'll get from books at www.reliable-store.com
These are books containing info on repair, service, troubleshooting, parts info, assembling dissemble, removal, error/fault codes, wiring diagrams and everything on any vehicles cars, atv, trucks. forklifts, boats, excavators etc
My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs from
www.reliable-store.com instead. much better info on all vehicles, complete details, and they also have live assistance feature
set it at 12 degrees btdc where it should be
If it has electronic timing it will advance /retard from that point and not as you expect to go to the correct setting
DTC B0790 Transfer Case Neutral Indicator Circuit Malfunction
The Neutral indicator circuit consists of an ignition 3 voltage circuit and a Neutral indicator control circuit. When the Neutral mode has been selected by the driver, current is supplied to the Neutral indicator by the ignition 3 voltage circuit, traveling through the Neutral indicator LED at which time the transfer case shift control module supplies the ground through the Neutral indicator control circuit. This DTC detects an open, short to ground, or a short to voltage.
2
Install a scan tool.
Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.
With the scan tool, command the Neutral Indicator Light ON and OFF.
Does the Neutral Indicator Light turn ON and OFF with each command?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
NO - Go to Step 3
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the transfer case select switch.
Disconnect the connector on the transfer case select switch.
Turn the ignition ON.
Probe the ignition 3 voltage circuit with a DMM that is connected to a good ground.
Does the DMM indicate battery voltage?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 10
5
Does the DMM continue to indicate battery voltage with each command?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 6
6
Test the neutral indicator control circuit for a short to voltage or an open. Refer to Testing for Continuity and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 13
NO - Go to Step 9
7
Test the control circuit of the neutral indicator for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 9
8
Inspect for poor connections at the transfer case shift control switch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 11
9
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 12
10
Repair the ignition 3 voltage circuit of the transfer case select switch for an open, a high resistance, or a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
11
Replace the transfer case select switch. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Switch Replacement .
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
12
Replace the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
13
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC set?
Go to Step 2
System OK
1. Oil coming from the ext. vent means Overfill fluid transmission or valve body problem (need to open the transmission to overhaul it) but usually overfill.
2. Do you have any transmission faulty code
3. If you pull a trailer, heavy load there is a function in PCM (powertrain control Module) that raise the pressure to compensate the slip at clutch pressure and if you unhook the trailer and go on the highway before the PCM learn it, it will shift hard. What GM call the "shift adapt". You probably have a 4L80E for transmission or the 4L60E depends on the truck's options.
hope it helps.
You should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it,
service/repair/owner's/maintenance manual with
parts info, fuse box, gear box, PCV, torque specs,coiling, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything
Worth it
Did you check primary voltage at the ignition coil, pink wire, goes hot with key on. Fuse protected circuit. Use a test light to check for voltage with key on. Do you have voltage to fuel injectors, key on. Fuel injector fuse/ coil, according to my info.
1. Body ground problems
2. Need to make a voltage drop on each grounds in the entire truck or unplug each one of them clean with a file(not sandpaper it leaves residue) and add a star washer.
Explanation; Radio waves are very sensitive. The grounds kill the over waves or what they call parasite waves. By cleaning the grounds it will help to kill the noise wave. Or install a noise suppressor on the + wire of the radio.
Hope it helps
I'm not sure if I understand you correctly. Does the air conditioning works properly it's just the sound problem and did it happens suddenly?
For the strange sound, it could be normal and not.
I imagine the sound comes from the exchange pressure between the low pressure and high pressure.
To fix or knowing what is wrong you will have to get AC/pressure gauge install on AC/pressure tap under the hood and sync the compressor engaging clutch if it happens at the same time that the sound you are talking about.
Pretty hard to tell online without earing it. But I ever listen to a sound similar to that.
hope it helps
I have replaced the corroded and burnt front signal socket as I was told that could be part of the problem. Now another person tells me that if I do not have the oem flasher unit this might be the culprit.?????? Rather then listening to people telling you it's this or that , if you can't view a wiring diagram an use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test the circuits an find the problem , your best bet mite be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop. There are a lot of training videos on youtube for leaning how to trouble shoot these type problems . This is how professional technicians learned !
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to KnowMastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
If the fuse blowes you have a direct short to ground on the B+ voltage supply circuit for the right turn signals .
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on lighting , then under subsystem click on exterior lighting . Click the search button then the last blue link..
When does the fuse blow ? As soon as you turn right signal on ? As soon as you install a new fuse ?
How to test for short to ground ohmmeter vs test light Don't rely on others , learn to test ,not guess .