Ford Probe - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Sounds like the steering wheel horn switch or loom is faulty. Be carefull if it has an air bag, it may go off!

Sounds like a bad blower motor resistor.

Check out this... https://www.2carpros.com/questions/headlights-close-on-their-own-or-just-dont-open

Question edited for clarity. It took me ages to work out what a 'ford probeim' is! Question moved to Ford Probe category. You can try, but I doubt they will fit. Sell the old ones on eBay. https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+probe.+put+front+bucket+seats+in+the+back+seat ..

Sounds like there is likely a master cylinder or slave cylinder leak. These are the two that push the hydraulic fluid to the clutch mechanism and sequentially the slave cylinder after getting the pressure of the forced fluid to it from the master, it forces the rod out of it the move the clutch mechanism so that the clutch engages and disengages the engine/trans.also check if you have a brake line leak as the brake fluid reservoir shares its fluid with the clutch master cylinder. If enough of the fluid is being drained out of the brake reservoir so that you are pumping air into the clutch slave cylinder, but still have enough in the reservoir to have the brakes working, then you should check that as well. I however think its likely either the clutch master or slave.

It is a known issue on this vehicle. https://www.google.com/search?q=1994+Ford+Probe.+It+starts%2C+but+why+doesn%27t+it+continue+running ..

In most cases, the primary symptom is a check engine light.And you know what this means right? It’s a sign the ECU is holding on to some trouble codes. In order to read the code, you’ll need to hook up an OBD2 scan tool. If you find a P0230 or P0231 OBD2 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), this means a malfunction in the primary circuit of the fuel pump.

you have a pulley locking up that is breaking belt. with belt off spin pulleys by hand and feel for anything abnormal. wobbles, sticks or bind. due this for all pulleys ran by that belt u will find your problem

It could be many things. I would start with taking the coil packs or ignition coil to autozone or advanced auto to have them checked. Not exactly sure which one that model prob has but I would check that first. If this part is not the culpret it is more likely that your Crankshaft Sensor has went bad. they are not usually very expensive to change but they can be hard to get to. Good luck!

do the pulleys turn freely, are there any notches on them.MAKE SURE THE BELT IS NOT RIDDING AGAISNT ANY THING

Best take it to a dealer, if you play with it and make a wrong connection it could deploy and cause major damage.

Hi,

I hope this PDF will help.

Eitan.

Yes it could be an exhaust leak especially if it’s louder when you first start it cold.

the only thing i can think of to fix this is that you have a vacuum leak 89 to 95 used a vacuum line control, if this is leaking then the system will not hold in place or not even move. check the vacuum line and look for cracks and splits in the pipes and connections. if you find any replace these parts. if you cannot afford to replace them clean them and use some superglue to repair them but i would get replacements as soon as you can. you can sometimes hear a hissing sound where its leaking from but if the engine is loud you may not hear it.

Okay first of all I want you to do a couple of things to get this problem fixed the first is understand if it's running foot on gas it's not the relay it's working ok now changing the fuel filter is must for any new car you just got so you know how long it's been in and can be ruled out next your problem can be 1 of 7(1) clean out the throttle body with a cleaner built up varnish and dirt will cause poor running and stalling (2) check all vacuum lines for cracking or breaks///to also find them take a long enough piece of rubber hose and put 1 end in your ear YES I SAID THAT and put cotton or paper towel in your other one to block outside noise you are making a stethoscope for listening to hissing vacuum leaks from the lines and the throttle body this is a trick I'm teaching you that you'll use for the rest of time (3)take out your spark plugs and inspect them for proper gap any insulator cracking and replace or just regap them cleaning the electrodes of any possible debris inspect the ignition wires for soft Splitting boots by flexing them back and forth and the wires themselves for burns in the jackets and also flex to check for brittleness. (4) observe the coil pack with a magnifying glass and look for cracks in the towers and the whole housing//// also if you have a garage look at the coil pack in the dark any escaping voltage will show itself if no garage a blanket at night ime will do tape it down to avoid flapping in the wind and any hazard of getting hurt if it's a old one poke holes in it and tie it down around you or just pick a very dark location to check for escaping spark (5) now after this process of eliminating other possible causes and your motor still is doing the same thing running only with gas peddle and not at idle your idle air control valve is shot and possibly your throttle position sensor the contact inside could be worn at the idle spot but if you Rev the motor and it runs for 3-4 seconds then dies it's not the throttle position sensor and now it's time to spend $$$ on the idle air control valve make sure when you change it to position the gasket correctly DO NOT USE RTV OR ANY SEALER WHATSOEVER JUST POSITION AND TIGHTEN PROPERLY AFTER START AND SEE IF IT KEEPS RUNNING IT SHOULD BUT IF FOR SOME REASON IT DOESN'T THEN CHANGE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AND YOU SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE PROBLEM (6)after we have the Ole girl running now take 2 cans of Berrimans B12 Chem tool fuel system cleaner and put it in the tank this double shot will clean out anything in the lines the rest of the throttle body and it will give a higher temperature flame in the exhaust that will help with cleaning out the catalytic convertor combined with a full tank of premium gas like shell,exxon,mobile,bpor sunoco 93 octane Do not use cheap no name gas and the Berrimans is cleaning out that junk so you would contradict what your doing these high-quality fuels have detergents in them and the 93 octane/Berrimans combo is exactly what your motor wants and needs now go cruising on the highway for 5-10 miles each way so you understand what's happening with the fuel the higher the octane level the more stable and slower the fuel burns and with the Berrimans your getting optimal cleaning of your whole fuel and emission system and now that we have a very good running motor and the problems are solved there's one more thing to do and your done (7) I want you to buy carbon conductive grease from an electronics store or from the NET DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE OK IT'S IMPORTANT THAT YOU STAY WITH ME HERE ON THIS AND I'LL EXPLAIN WHY ALL OTHERS ARE NOT FOR THIS JOB CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST FOR SENSORS CONTACTS AND SWITCHES ////DIELECTRIC GREASE IS A MOISTURE BARRIER GREASE FOR IGNITION IT DOES NOT TRANSFER CURRENT AND YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS WITH OTHERS FOR THE SAME REASON AND ALSO THERE MELTING POINT WILL BE A MUCH LOWER TEMPERATURE AND CAUSE IT TO LIQUIFY AND RUN WHICH WILL CAUSE POSSIBLE GROUNDING AND CIRCUITS TO JUMP TO EACH OTHER SHORTING OUT COMPONENTS SO ONLY CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE OK!///UNPLUG EACH SENSOR AND WITH A TOOTHPICKS WORTH AT A TIME PUT THE GREASE INTO EACH PIN IN THE PLUG A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY SO USE IT AT A DOTS WORTH FOR EACH PIN AND PUT THE PLUG IN THEN REMOVE IT AGAIN TO MAKE SURE NO GREASE IS SQUEEZING OUT IF SO CLEAN IT BUT THERE SHOULDN'T BE BECAUSE YOU USED A DOTS WORTH RIGHT! AND NOW GO TO EVERY SENSOR PLUG AND DO THE SAME THING /////WHAT YOUR DOING IS GIVING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM A TUNE UP YEP THAT'S RIGHT AND WHY? Well because your engine runs on gas but its controlled by electrical voltage from the sensors around the engine and by lubricating the sensor plugs with the right grease you have now brought the connections around the engines sensors to the optimum and the results will be better mpgs and a much better signal transfer back to the computer (ECM) SO IT CAN ADJUST AND OPERATE YOUR ENGINE AT ITS OPTIMAL LEVELS AS IT WAS DESIGNED TO OPERATE ALSO A LESS CHANCE OF SENSOR FAILURE BECAUSE THE SIGNAL FROM THE ECM IS RECEIVED IN THE 100'S/OF A SECOND AS ITS SUPPOSED TO SO EVERTHINGS FUNCTIONING PRECISELY AS IT SHOULD ///////so you know where this info is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of the automobile mechanics and we have vehicles with 300,000-400,000+ miles on the original motors and I picked your question because you were a little off the beaten path with the relay and now you and anyone else who reads this thread will now be on the yellow brick road now just joking good luck and enjoy the learning process and experience and and always write down what you're doing as a record for your knowledge later stephen

See if you have spark coming out of the coil wire first. If you don't : coil, wire, pick up coil, module or timing chain. If you do : dist cap, rotor or wires

I'd use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? In my area some of the national brand autostores will check po codes for free, if there are any? Right now, it sounds like it's getting too much fuel for some reason. Just my opinion.

The horn switch sends a ground signal to the relay. Is the switch getting ground from the harness? If yes, does the switch have continuity when pressed? Finally, does the output wire have continuity to the relay terminal? Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

On most cars vacuum hoses from the engine power diaphragms that open and close the doors that change where the air blows in the heater system. Check for vacuum leaks. sometimes the diaphragms will go bad. It’s hard to say without actually digging into the system. There might even be something blocking the doors from moving that fell into your defrosters. But at least this gives you a few places to check

Throttle position sensor or idle air control