Datsun 510 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/firing-order-datsun-l-series.html

18-20 city 22-25+ highway. Instead of the L20b, you would be way ahead to install an SR22DE or DET (Turbo) motor. Much better engineering and horsepower. IMHO

has the chain been replaced

If you havent fixed it by now then the problem is the Clutch Thrust Bearing in the bell housing is dry and got to be replaced,as when you press down the clutch pedal it pushes in the Pressure plate and alows the Centre plate to run free. But with the bearing sized up the Pressure plate facing were the bearing runs is wearing out SO REPLACE the clutch cover pressure plate as well and to do this you have to remove the gearbox first.

find a repair manual

remove dist cap turn engine over by hand till points are closest to being closed ie not reopening or stilll closing install new one and gap to spec

sounds like your throwout bearing is kaput

Bit late here, but I love Datsuns! First check if you are getting power to coil on the + side of coil. Pretty much a straight path from ignition switch to coil. Then pull off coil to distributor cable at the distributor and check for spark on that wire when cranking engine over. If good, rotor, distributor cap, plug wires, or sparkplugs need checked. If no spark from coil, it should be tested with an ohmmeter for proper resistance values, or swap in another coil.Does it have mechanical points and condenser or electronic ignition?

Turn your crank pulley and line the timing marks to top dead center,pull the distribuor cap and see where the rotor points to, thats where the #1 position is located.

You probably have it out of time, when it hits the cam it twists around out of time, you have to make sure the rotor is pointing to No. 1 piston. when No 1 is up, TDC, and the timing mark on the front of the engine is on its mark. The rotor will twist down on the cam, you can put the cap on and follow the wire to number 1 , then make sure when it is seated, it is pointing to no 1. No 1 is the front most cylinder. Hope this helps.

Bench test the alternator, suspect diode problems, that hinder fill charging capability.

What about the possibility of a crack in head gasket between oil passages and coolant passages. Oil pressure would be higher than cooling system pressure, thus oil would be more likely to enter cooling system, than coolant enter oil /lube system. Just a thought. Have you done a cooling system pressure test, just to see if any drop at all in pressure? Seeing how engine would not be running, oil pressure would be 0, and may allow coolant to seep through same path, only from cooling system, to oil. Is it a large amount that your getting?

I'm not familiar with the vehicle but a rear axle is a rear axle.Remove the cover on the rear end[drain pan in place].Roll the diff around till you find an anchor pin.Remove the pin and roll it around again until you can remove the "c" clip.Now the axle will come out.Are you sure you need to remove the axle?You may be able the beat the ild stud out and draw a new stud with a spcer and retighten the wheel bolt to pull it in place,just a thought.

withthe ING light on it means one of three things battery is low or altaanator is not charging or battery posts and or cables dirty and loose You may have a malfunction in the points as well. Does it back fire or run rough?

If you haven't already, check out www.inlandautosupply.com/manuals.html