Daewoo Lanos - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

Have you done basic tune up? Check that throttle cable is opening throttle all the way. Check for clogged exhaust, bad converter.

if you dont want to pay a fortune your best bet is auto recycles

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Perhaps it is time to see if the engine will turn over at all. One way is to try to turn the crank pulley on the front of the engine by hand. Most have a large bolt that would take a socket to turn. Another way is to take a large screwdriver and try to turn the flywheel back by the starter. Did you bench test the new starter before installation? Is it time to do that now? Did you match it to the old one? God bless your efforts.

Possibly but as the original box was set up for the 1.5 , I would suggest that the new motor wont be operating to full capacity. Most electronic boxes can be reset but it usually needs a Dealer to program this in with their factory equipment. They should be able to tell you if the boxes are the same but with different programming. If they are different and not compatible, I would suggest going to a wrecker for the correct 1.6 box. I reckon a new one will be very expensive.

Normaly back of engine.

Oxygen Sensor

1999 Daewoo Lanos 1.6L MFI DOHC 4cyl

The Oxygen Sensor is located: Under hood, driver side, lower engine area, above exhaust pipe flange, mounted in exhaust manifold,don't have a picture.Here's a link to what it look's like just remove the electrical connector,get a open end wrench and remove.. http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/oxygen-sensor/bosch-oxygen-sensor/daewoo/lanos/1999/4-cylinders-6-1-6l-mfi-dohc/4971_102074_1784_97999

Measure the old ones or cut to length while fitting new ones using the proper flaring tool or compression fittings.

when driving ur vehicle and engine tempreture exceeds normal operating first check coolant level if level is ok then proceed to thermostat remove it boil water place it in the water if its faulty it wont open then replace

Sound like it needs a tune up, replace spark plugs check high tension cables , make sure there is a good spark to the plugs, clean or replace air filter, replace fuel filter , check fuel pressure and flow. check fuel injectors for leaks.

Yes I'm sorry to say, But I've had to reprogram in the past. With same issue.

Check to see if you have enough oil in the engine, With the dip stick-before running engine while the motor is cold check oil level and add as needed.

Do you have rear window tinting?( the plastic sheet type ) If so,check that the edges over the demister tapes have not curled up pulling the tapes off the window and diconnecting them. If they need repair, a small bottle of tape repair solution should be available from a spare parts retailer.
El Nombre

Have you taken the dash apart and checked the cable on the switch? Or tested the switch if it's electronic?

On front wheel drive vehicles they would be located in transmission, not internally bolted or screwed into the side of bellhousing. There will be two wires attached to it

It is highly impossible that both front and rear motors go at the same time. Its most likely a fuse or main wire to external fuse block under the hood. Make sure you have power to the fuse box with test light. Then continue to testing the wires that go to wiper motors with test light. Its most likely a fuse

Daewoo engine are interference engines so there is every possibility of valve damage

Have you been in any type of minor fender binder? If so check the fuel pump inertia cutoff switch in rear of car.