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Questions & Answers
Arctic Cat 500. Started yesterday. Why doesn't (battery) charge to be able to start?
The primary requirement apart from a healthy charging system is a healthy battery and it is the problem with little used vehicles and other battery powered equipment is few people remember to periodically charge them - a battery will self discharge over time and when connected to a vehicle with an electronic system that is always "on", the discharge rate will be greater.
A battery that is left partly or completely discharged for even a few weeks will be permanently damaged or completely ruined.
As a matter of diverse interest, a vehicle "charging" system is a massive misnomer as firstly it isn't designed to recharge a battery but to keep a fully charged battery fully charged (and usually doesn't do that very well) and because of the design of the system, the "charge" rate quickly drops to a trickle charge and few people drive constantly for the large number of hours it takes to recharge a battery that is being trickle charged - a large car battery can take a week or longer...
First remove the battery, charge and test it...
on Jan 02, 2021
I I have 06 Arctic Cat 650. Front left wheel came off while driving. Cotter pin sheared off and castle nut spun off. Repaired , next trip out after 50 km same wheel came off. Anyone have any idea why
Castle nut is usually backed by a washer that is keyed to the stub axle either by a flat on the threaded part of the axle or by a groove or in rare examples by a splined shoulder.
These are merely precautions because a healthy bearing assembly should roll smoothly without any turning of the inner on the shaft and if this is so there is no or minimal turning force exerted on the washer, nut and cotter...
Assuming it is a typical hub with a pair of taper roller bearings, the most common reason why a turning force is exerted on the outer bearing inner race is over-tightening - there is a general and incorrect belief this type of bearing should be adjusted so there is no detectable free play.
Where the hub also carries a brake rotor, it will become warm or even hot in use and expand and that expansion will be at a greater rate than the axle and so will have the effect of tightening the bearing, often with the predictable result of bearing damage, the bearing turning on the shaft and perhaps even losing the nut, etc.
The correct method of adjustment is not to feel the free play by rocking the wheel - some of what is felt is the clearance between the bearing and shaft. The correct method is by measuring the hub end-float with a dial gauge, though tightening the nut finger tight and unscrewing it by one castellation before fitting the cotter serves most applications and is far less than that recommended by the bearing manufacturer. You will of course need a new washer.
After losing the wheel twice I would suspect both the bearings and the stub axle will have sustained some damage...
on Dec 27, 2020
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