20 Most Recent Arctic Cat 2009 550 H1 EFI TRV 4x4 Questions & Answers


adjust air-fuel mixture

Arctic Cat 2009... | Answered on Jan 13, 2014


weak fuel pump, choke not working ?
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Arctic Cat ATVs | Answered on Jan 25, 2015


Bad timing ?
water in the fuel.
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Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw Trimmer Parts

Arctic Cat ATVs | Answered on Jan 25, 2015


Adjustment between the shift lever and gearbox
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Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw Trimmer Parts

Arctic Cat ATVs | Answered on Jan 25, 2015


Common problem is there is water and dirt that gets inside the actuator and it strips the plastic gears inside.
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Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw Trimmer Parts

Arctic Cat ATVs | Answered on Jan 25, 2015


Here are the service manuals for all Arctic cat ATVs

Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw Trimmer Parts

Arctic Cat ATVs | Answered on Jan 25, 2015


I don't know about your atv - most car and truck starters move into mesh before receiving full power but many bike type starters use a roller clutch in a drive that is a permanent chain drive.

I strongly advise you obtain the appropriate service literature for your machine before you start to unbolt anything.

ATVs | Answered Yesterday


The primary requirement apart from a healthy charging system is a healthy battery and it is the problem with little used vehicles and other battery powered equipment is few people remember to periodically charge them - a battery will self discharge over time and when connected to a vehicle with an electronic system that is always "on", the discharge rate will be greater.

A battery that is left partly or completely discharged for even a few weeks will be permanently damaged or completely ruined.

As a matter of diverse interest, a vehicle "charging" system is a massive misnomer as firstly it isn't designed to recharge a battery but to keep a fully charged battery fully charged (and usually doesn't do that very well) and because of the design of the system, the "charge" rate quickly drops to a trickle charge and few people drive constantly for the large number of hours it takes to recharge a battery that is being trickle charged - a large car battery can take a week or longer...

First remove the battery, charge and test it...

ATVs | Answered on Jan 02, 2021


Lots of information and videos here. First thing to check is that you have fuel!

https://www.google.com/search?q=Arctic+Cat+500+will+not+start

..

ATVs | Answered on Jan 01, 2021


Is the throttle cable stuck? If not it could be a jet has vibrated out of place in the carburettor

ATVs | Answered on Dec 29, 2020


Flat or defective battery. Try jump leads to a running vehicle.

ATVs | Answered on Dec 28, 2020


Castle nut is usually backed by a washer that is keyed to the stub axle either by a flat on the threaded part of the axle or by a groove or in rare examples by a splined shoulder.
These are merely precautions because a healthy bearing assembly should roll smoothly without any turning of the inner on the shaft and if this is so there is no or minimal turning force exerted on the washer, nut and cotter...

Assuming it is a typical hub with a pair of taper roller bearings, the most common reason why a turning force is exerted on the outer bearing inner race is over-tightening - there is a general and incorrect belief this type of bearing should be adjusted so there is no detectable free play.
Where the hub also carries a brake rotor, it will become warm or even hot in use and expand and that expansion will be at a greater rate than the axle and so will have the effect of tightening the bearing, often with the predictable result of bearing damage, the bearing turning on the shaft and perhaps even losing the nut, etc.

The correct method of adjustment is not to feel the free play by rocking the wheel - some of what is felt is the clearance between the bearing and shaft. The correct method is by measuring the hub end-float with a dial gauge, though tightening the nut finger tight and unscrewing it by one castellation before fitting the cotter serves most applications and is far less than that recommended by the bearing manufacturer. You will of course need a new washer.

After losing the wheel twice I would suspect both the bearings and the stub axle will have sustained some damage...

ATVs | Answered on Dec 27, 2020


Most new spark plugs are supplied with a gap suitable for the application they are mostly purchased for but that doesn't mean they are right for your engine or that any rough handling hasn't altered one or more of the gaps so it is always best to check the gaps before installing them.

ATVs | Answered on Dec 26, 2020


The symptom you describe suggests the clutch plates aren't disengaging; due to maladjustment, wear patterns on plates and/or basket (or cage) or worn or broken operating mechanism...

ATVs | Answered on Dec 20, 2020

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