Stanley Crafts & Hobbies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support




Stanley Crafts &... | Answered on Dec 16, 2017

PLug it in and if there is a on/off swith turn it on. The gun's heating element will get hot. When it is hot enough to melt the glue stick you have put inside through the hole (that is glue stick sized and on your end) then the trigger will push the glue stcik into the hot metal melting and coming out the end so you can deliver it where you want to glue something. Beware of the heat. You absolutely can burn yourself touching the hot parts of the glue gun. Think how you would not touch the hot part of a steam iron... same problem.) That's pretty much it. Pull the trigger to push the glue stick though and add more sticks as you need them. And beware of the very hot nature of hte tool.

Stanley Crafts &... | Answered on Nov 25, 2014

I do not believe there is a manual. there are instructions on the package. Insert the glue stick and turn on the gun. When the glue melts and the trigger moves glue will come out the front tip. This model has 2 temperatures so if it delivers too fast or runny you can lower the temperature. You pull the trigger to push the glue stick into the heating element to melt the glue. It is pretty straight forward. As the glue stick is consumed you stick in another glue stick. I suggest testing on something before using on your project. Do be careful of the hot end. It will definitely burn you if you touch it and the glue coming out is nearly as hot as the metal.

Stanley Gr100... | Answered on Nov 25, 2014

You don't. If you have a snap off tip blade you break it outside the container. If you have a razor utility knife you swap blades. the used baldes are disposed of in the container. It does not have any means to break a blade. It is the equivalent of th needle disposal in a doctor's office. The sharps go in the container to keep people from getting cut or stuck. Think of it as a specialized trash can. That's all... (No breaking... Sorry.)

Stanley Blade... | Answered on Nov 25, 2014

Check the pressure at the gun to make sure the hose is good. Make sure the gun is oiled. The compressed air forces a piston down to drive the nail. the inside of the cylinder may be corroded causing the piston not to move as fast as it should or with as much force. Most air guns are pretty easy to disassemble to inspect. You should be able to figure this out pretty quickly this way.

Stanley Bostitch... | Answered on Nov 25, 2014

Those are funny little planes - they're wicked handy when you need one. I like mine a LOT.

They ARE coarsely built, not a "fine" tool, but they do a fine job.

Loosen the little screw SLIGHTLY, then either bump the rear of the iron (to extend it more) or the rear of the plane (to extend the iron less) against a piece of softwood (bench, sawhorse, 2x4, hammer handle). When it's where you want it, tighten the little screw again.

Adjust the plane's mouth (assuming that you're using it as a bullnose plane, not as a chisel plane) by loosening the big screw, then just sliding the bullnose front & rear.

Remember - planes are meant to SHAVE wood. The iron should NOT take off a thick shaving, it should take off a shaving no thicker than one sheet of toilet paper. The iron should BARELY peek out from under the plane.

Stanley 12 - 975... | Answered on Jul 29, 2014

Adjust the mouth opening by loosening the front knob, then turning the little lever under it to move the sliding "tongue". Adjust the iron extension by turning the rear knob - it should BARELY peek out under the sole. Adjust the iron\'s angle by sliding the rear lever from side to side. Adjust the iron\'s tension with the top cap screw.

As you plane, if your plane takes off anything thicker than a single layer of toilet paper, the iron is extended too far. A block plane is not a tool to take off big hunks of wood, it\'s a tool to very slightly shave a wood surface, one thousandth of an inch at a time. As such, it needs to be crazily sharp, sharpened to your best approach to perfection. Please read about "Scary Sharp" on the Internet.

Stanley Crafts &... | Answered on Jul 29, 2014

can you elaborate on this problem at all? is the glue not heating up? is it not getting power? what is happening?

Stanley Bostich... | Answered on Feb 26, 2013

Not sure about the wires, but you can contact Stanley customer support here:

also, check and see if the gun is still under warranty, you may be able to exchange it for a new one

Stanley Bostich... | Answered on Feb 26, 2013

You shouldn't remove the auto shut off feature, it is a safety mechanism, and it will increase the life of the gun. It is also very convenient because you won't put the gun down and come back to find it in a pile of melted or hardened glue

Stanley Glue Gun... | Answered on Feb 26, 2013

I'm not sure exactly what you're referring to as a "horse shoe". However, you will find a wealth of information on exactly how to set up and tune your hand plane if you search google for "tuning a hand plane" There are videos and books that deal with the subject exhaustively. Here's a link to one.
In general, I have only used a variety of wooden and cast iron planes, and so I'm not familiar with a plastic adjusting mechanism. I hope these instructions will help you nevertheless...
Here's a complete set of instructions for the No. 4 smoothing plane, that includes a list of the terminology used to describe the plane's parts. If you can, please read that and provide a more detailed description of your problem. The cap iron needs to fit tightly against the plane iron (or blade), with the iron protruding just about 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch beyond the cap iron. Then these fit down over the adjusting lever or cam depending on the plane, and the lever cap adjustment screw should be adjusted so the lever cap snaps into place with some force, but still allows the iron to be adjusted slightly in and out with the adjustment screw. The main adjustment screw is usually beloew the iron at the rear of the frog, that wedge shaped piece of steel that supports the iron.(Some people release the lever cap tension before adjusting the iron, but with correct screw tension this should not be necessary.) I hope that helps and doesn't sound like jibberish.
Otherwise, you may find better instructions with a detailed search here,

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Stanley 12 - 905... | Answered on Jul 07, 2011

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