Philips Electrical Supplies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Your proposed connection can't be done

Philips PH61150... | Answered on Mar 18, 2017

To replace a three way switch with a dimmer, you need to use a three way dimmer.

Philips... | Answered on May 19, 2014

If you have determined the wiring to be correct, then yes, the remote is probably defective..

According to Lightolier literature, your Lightolier OS600 is called a "strap dimmer". Having 540W on a 600w rated switch is pretty close to the limit (90%) of the switch, and will cause the switch to fail sooner than say a 300w load. The 600w rating of the switch applies only if all the heating sink fins are in place. Often times, when installing in a box with another switch or dimmer, fins must be removed to allow the switch to physically fit. If any fins are removed, the rating of the switch is reduced. Page 30 of the manual shows that a 600w strap dimmer that has a single fine removed is reduced to a 500w capacity dimmer, and if both fins are removed, it is reduced to a 400w dimmer. You may find that you will need a 1000w dimmer to reliably gain control of your 540w load, as it will control 600w even with both fins removed. This derating is required due to the heat created by the dimmer. Heat is a killer for electronics, and solid state dimmers are no exception.

Check out page 32 of that manual. On it, are wiring diagrams for dimmers and switches. I believe your is figure "G" that shows the 120v "hot" (black) connected to the black wire of ALL switches, the yellow wires of ALL the switches are connected together, but are not connected to anything else, the 120v neutral (white) connects to the MASTER white wire AND light fixture white wire and finally, the MASTER red wire connects to the light fixture black wire.

It is also important to note that these switches are for standard tungsten incandescent and quartz halogen lamps ONLY. They are NOT suitable for CFL, Fluorescent or other types frequently found in commercial / industrial buildings such as neon or other gas lamps such as Metal Halide, Mercury Vapor, High Pressure Sodium, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Philips... | Answered on Jun 05, 2012

Ok - a couple of things, first - when a dimmer is set to minimum; zero to a barely perceptible level of light output is expected. Second, fluorescent lamps have a much shorter range of dimming that the standard incandescent lamps have. It is not unusual for a fluorescent lamp to remain off until the dimmer is at or above the half way point in the dimmer's range. Third, you can not dim a fluorescent lamp or fixture unless the lamp or fixture is specifically labeled as being "dimmable". Use of a dimmer to control brightness of fluorescent lamps and fixtures that do not clearly indicate they are designed for dimming or to control the speed of motors like those in "paddle fan & light fixtures" creates a dangerous fire hazard condition. Most CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) that readily replace the screw-in incandescent type lamps and are clearly labeled as dimmable, can be used with a standard dimmer. The traditional (non-CFL) fluorescent fixtures that have a internally mounted and hard wired internal ballast need a special dimmable ballast to operate.

Good luck!

Philips... | Answered on Feb 04, 2012

Depending on your wiring, as to single pole (one switch location) or 3 way (two switch locations) you can use most dimmers. Leviton and Lutron have similar dimmers, and some specifically for cfl's.
Leviton has Sureslide, Illumitech, True Touch
Lutron has Diva, Skylark, and Lumea

Make sure your cfl is dimmable.

Philips... | Answered on Mar 09, 2011

Hello, black is the line or "hot" wire. White is the neutral and green is the ground wire.. On the cord end the black goes to the smaller of the two parallel blades and the white to the larger. The green goes to the one that is more round, the ground.

Philips Power... | Answered on Feb 21, 2011

i am sure replacement switch can be found but also pretty sure is almost as exspensive as new unit i recommend replacing it as the time to replace the switch will be long

Philips Power... | Answered on Oct 10, 2009

I assume this is an RV/Camper.
Leave the generator running for a few moments before making the "Flip"
Need more info to make troubleshooting easier...,
Please supply what equipment you have
Is this the factory Generator?

Electrical... | Answered 3 days ago

a three Lights in the fixture should have two wires from each lamp coming together in the center. They should have been crimped at the Factory with One Black wire,and One white wire... of not, verify each pair of wires are colored Black and White..
Connect all white wires to the White wire in the Electrical box, and all the black wires to the Black wire in the electrical box...Turn off the switch and circuit breaker before work.

Electrical... | Answered 3 days ago

Your RV and others have a "Transfer Switch"...
Follow the exterior cable coming from the electrical INLET mounted on the outside of the RV.
It should go to a junction box, or the actual transfer switch.
May have the problem there... Bad Contactor or the Electronics are not seeing the Generator...

Electrical... | Answered 3 days ago

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