Pacific International Cycling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Dry or bad bearings in either the right pedal or the bottom bracket (shaft between the pedals).

See this article, particularly the paragraph, "Symptoms of a bottom bracket needing overhaul"...

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Bottom_Brackets/Bottom_bracket_overhaul

lots of bike repair manuals at your local library. That is how I got started 30 years ago. Bicycle parts haven't changed much over the last 100 years, the concepts are still the same, so just about any bicycle repair manual will give you all the basics. Park Tool manual is good, Bicycling Magazine has one, Leonard Zinn has a couple good ones. Barnett's manual is the bees knees of bicycle repair, used by professionals worldwide.

The rack that I think you have should allow you to use an inner tube by loosening the q/r lever adjustment. One other idea would be to mask off the part of the seat post where the rack will be mounted and then apply a spray adhesive of the type that forms a temporary bond when applied to one surface. That may help avoid slippage. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Doesn't sound like a shop that knows what they are doing, or they just didn't want to work on your bike. If the brake lever is broken, why didn't they try to sell you a new one? If your brakes are obsolete, why didn't they try to sell you a new brake system? Bicycle brakes are not rocket science, take it to a different shop fir a new quote, or get a book on how to repair bikes and do it yourself.

take it t the nearest bike shop

You need to unscrew the circular nut like thing on the stem all the way off and pull up hard on the bars and it should come up, try spraying some lucricant on the stem to loosen it if needed.

cranks are pressed on and require a special removal tool, hitting them with a hammer will only result in bending them and marring them. Your LBS will sell you the tool, made by Park Tool Co. for about $15-20, or they can perform the service for you in just a couple minutes.

the derailleur cable is too loose. Shift the shifter into the smallest cog, make sure the chain is on the smallest cog. The derailleur cable will most likely be very slack now. At the rear derailleur, there will be a nut or a allen bolt pinching the cable to the derailleur. loosen this, pull the cable finger tight, tighten the nut or bolt again and then try shifting again. You can dial it in using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur or the shifter.

go to your local bike shop (LBS) they should be able to source a crank that will be compatible with your components.

Unfortunately, there is only one last ditch effort to free up that freewheel. The following link takes you to a very simplified diagram of how a freewheel works : File Roue libre cliquet svg What's happening in your instance is that the pawl, colored red, is not engaging the outer teeth, possibly due to corrosion, or age. What you can do is use a penetrating oil to get inside the mechanism to try to free it up. In the following link, you will see a freewheel that is most likely similar to yours: Shimano Hyperglide Freewheel You want to add oil to the edge of that inner ring that says "Shimano" (yours may not say that), while spinning the cranks to draw the oil in. Hopefully, after a while, and maybe a lot of oil, the pawls will free up and start catching. Good luck!

Here's a PDF owners manual for Cruisers...http://control3.net/owners-manual-for-cruiser-bicycles-download-w582.pdf

Are you sure the derailer or sprocket are not bent? The next thing if not that is the cable itself is it pulling the delairer to release the gear from the gear it is in? one final is the bike just may not go into 6th gear depending on which gear you have the front sprocket in because it would pull the front sprocket to far past the crank space where the pedals are at.

It is not available.

There is a long bolt (of which you can only see the head) in the center of the handlebar stem. The nut (which you can't see at all) at the bottom of this bolt is a wedge, that when it is tight keeps the stem tightly wedged inside the tube (that you also can't see) that is the top part of the front fork (which is the two long arms to which the front wheel is attached. Loosen this bolt just a couple of turns, then give it a sharp rap with a hammer or block of wood. This will loosen the wedge without removing the bolt. Make your straightening adjustment and retighten the bolt. Good luck.

You just need to measure the post hole on the bike and that will tell you the post size.

All tires have the maximum inflation pressure molded into the sidewall.Try inflating to about 5psi below the max as a start.(My 26" tires are "MAX INFLATION PRESSURE 65PSI",I like it at about 50psi.

It's pretty straightforward changing the tires on the loop. I'm a big guy and the standard 65 PSI tires it comes with are ****. two blowouts already in the rear, most likely due to poor weight distribution. But Whatever the reason you have, here's how to change the rear tire. 1. You'll need to grab a 15mm wrench or socket & ratchet combo. Remember, righty tighty lefty loosey. 2. Remove the rear derailleur gear guard, it just sort of falls off. Store it somewhere safe until you're ready to reassemble everything. 3. Gently pull upward on the wheel once both bolts are removed. Carefully pull the derailleur away from wheel gears as you pull it upward and out of the gear system entirely. 4. Done with that part and the wheel should be out! Do whatever repairs that are necessary for the removal of the wheel, possibly changing a tube, I don't know. You needed it out, now it's out. 5. Reassembly is easy enough. Make sure the wheel isn't fully inflated while reassembling. The brakes on the Schwinn loop are tiny little things, you'll need to pinch to get it past where it needs to be again. 6. Move the derailleur gears out of the way while you move the wheel back into place, then slowly remount the chain onto the wheel gear assembly. It's very intuitive, you'll see exactly what you need to do here. 7. Throw that rear derailleur gears guard back on there, screw on and tighten those rear bolts and bam! Presto change-o! The tire is changed and you can feel a little more mechanically inclined for the day. NOTE: Changing the front wheel is also a simple job. You'll use the same 15mm tool, except there are no gears to worry about. Cheers!

needs new wire and adjusted. see repair shop