Napoleon Heating & Cooling - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

It appears to be programmed to do that. It would be part of a logic processor. https://www.google.com/search?q=Napoleon+IR3-1+propane+insert.+Fan+takes+20+minutes+to+finally+start ..

most of the time no. but obviously if it doesnt communicate after you change them, you would need to. Make sure your connections are good and tight and no connections are touching the cabinet itself.

clean burn gas is a blue flame it is achieved by using the correct jet size for the gas in use and by adjusting the air shroud around the jet opening if you converted from natural gas to LPG and didn't change the jet size that is one reason next there is a tin type shroud around the jet area that can be moved back or forward over the big hole that lets air to mix with the gas at the jet the position of that shroud adjusts the air to gas ratio If you are not sure of what I am talking about , talk with a gas fitter or have them do the job

If you hear click it means all is working OK. Check gas valve. Male sure it's in ON position

-It's normal. Every air conditioner do the same. Good Luck mai

-Temperature control set on too high. -No more Freon. Good Luck Mai Lor

-Have a professional to check for you. If you don't know any thing about electric and gas. It's danger. Good Luck Mai

-It's normal. Good Luck Mai

hi, please provide the unit model no. only after that we can start looking at solving your problem

the gas valve secondary valve is bad; you must replace the whole gas valve

Make sure Gas valve is in ON position many forget to turn it from pilot to ON

If you see soot a few things can be wrong. If it's a F/p then the logs may be impinging on the flame and not aligned properly or you may not have enough air. The air adjustment is on the burner and you should open it a fraction more.

I was told to tip the amish fireplace and hold it about 6 inches away from the floor for about 20 seconds then set it back up you can here it reset inside and I was also told they are self cleaning hmmmm I also had mine for more than the warranty and they sent me a new insert at no charge. Cannot beat that I have to call them again casue it runs for a bit then shuts down again all in all they have been great to me and it heats great too

You will need to remove any metal trim surrounding the glass. It usually just slips/pop off.
Once that is off, the wing nuts and clamps will be exposed. There will probably be quite a few. All of them will need to be removed and set aside. Depending on what type of gasket material the manufacturer used between the glass and the metal firebox, will determine how easy it will be to remove. I hope for your sake, it's a rope gasket. If not, it will have a rubberized high temp gasket material, which may require a thin blade metal putty knife. It will be used to carefully get behind the glass and the rubberized gasket to help it release from the metal around the firebox. try to keep the gasket in one piece. If you can't it will have to be replaced.

Once the glass is loose, carefully lift it up and away from the fireplace. It's best to clean it on a flat surface (counter top, kitchen table, etc) that has a couple of layers of cotton bath towels for padding.

DO NOT use a commercial glass cleaner to clean the glass. As most have ammonia in them. A 50/50 solution of White Vinegar and water works best. Use a clean sponge to wipe the glass with the vinegar and water solution. Paper towels to dry it. Use only as little pressure as need to clean the glass, as you don't want to break it. If the glass has a heavy build up on the inside part of the glass, you can use a plastic mesh scouring pad to get this off. Then wipe again with the vinegar and water solution and dry it.

After everything is cleaned and dry, reinstall the glass in reverse order of how you removed it.

I hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

Hi, all split unit have the same installation instructions.

Just follow the instruction below :

things you will need:

Level
Drill with drill bits
Plastic anchors
Tapping screws
Reciprocating saw or hole saw
Electrical tape
Wrenches
Cable clamp
Vacuum pump
Insulating covering and tape
Clamps

All you generally need to install a split system air conditioner is a small hole in the wall for the conduit that connects the indoor air-handling unit and the outdoor condenser. Each split system or ductless air conditioner is unique to its manufacturer, but this article explains the general instructions if you need to install a split system air conditioner.

Install the Indoor Unit:
Select an unobstructed location on a strong wall that is not subject to vibrations or a heat source.
The indoor unit needs at least 6 inches (15 cm) of open space from its top and sides, and it needs to be at least 8 feet (2.5 meters) from the ground.



Secure the mounting plate:
Hold the mounting plate against the wall where you want to install the indoor unit.
Use a level to make sure the plate is both horizontally and vertically square.
Drill holes at the appropriate spots to affix the plate to the wall. Insert plastic anchors into the holes. Secure the plate to the wall with tapping screws.


Create a hole in the wall to fit the piping:
Find the best spot for the hole, bearing in mind the length of the pipe and that it needs to reach from the indoor unit.
Use a reciprocating saw to drill a hole through the wall. The hole should be no bigger than 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter and needs to slope downward toward the exterior.
Insert a flexible flange into the hole.



Check the electrical connections:
Lift the unit's front panel and remove the cover.
Be sure the cable wires are connected to the screw terminals and match the diagram on the unit.


Connect the pipes:
Run the piping from the indoor unit toward the hole drilled through the wall.
Bind the copper pipes, the power cables and the drain pipe together with electrical tape. Place the drain pipe on the bottom to ensure a free flow of water.
Remove the pipe cap and remove any debris.
Secure the pipe to the indoor unit. Use 2 wrenches, working in opposite directions, to tighten the connection.
Join the water drainage pipe to the indoor unit's base.
Run the bound pipes and cables through the hole in the wall. Pay attention that the drainage pipe allows water to drain in an appropriate place.




Secure the indoor unit to the mounting plate by pressing the unit against the mounting plate.

Install the Outdoor Unit:

1.Find the best place to install the outdoor unit.
The outdoor unit's location needs to be away from any heavily trafficked, dusty or hot areas.
Refer to your owner's manual for the exact amount of space the outdoor unit needs to have around it in order to function properly.
2. Connect the electrical wires.
Remove the cover.
Refer to the unit's wiring diagram and make sure the cable wires are connected as the diagram suggests.
Fasten the cables with a cable clamp and replace the cover.
3.Secure the pipes' flare nuts to the corresponding pipes on the outdoor unit.


Complete the Split System Air Conditioner Installation
1 Bleed the air and humidity from the refrigerant circuit.
Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port.
Connect the vacuum pump hose to the service port.
Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg.
Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum.
Test all of the valves and joints for leaks.
Disconnect the vacuum. Replace the service port and caps.

2 Wrap the joints of the piping with insulating covering and insulating tape.

3 Affix the piping to the wall with clamps.

4 Seal up the hole in the wall.


Warnings

Do not install split system air conditioners where the air might contain gas, sulphur or oil.
Some split system air conditioner manufacturers void the unit's warranty if it is not installed by a licensed tradesman.


Hope it helped.

First, have you changed ALL of the batteries for the remote control? Not just the ones in the hand held remote.

If that is the case, you'll find a black box down in the lower louvered control compartment. That box is wired to the the control valve terminals. You will not be able to remove it from the fireplace, but there should be enough wiring to allow you to move it towards you.

Depending on who manufactured the remote, in most cases, if you turn the box over and look at the bottom, you can access the batteries (usually 4-AA Alkaline batteries) by sliding the cover back were indicated. If your model is a Skytech Remote, you may have to remove the front cover plate to slide the bottom off. Other manufacturers may have a slide out drawer. Simply push on the face of the door and it will pop out. In either case, be sure to look for any corrosion that the old batteries may have caused and clean it out. Also, note which way the batteries are facing, as you want to install the new ones the exact same way. Failure to do that, will cause the remote receiver not to work.

On the front of the receiver box, there should be a 2 or 3 position slide switch. All the way to the left is the OFF . The Middle Position is REMOTE and the Right position is ON. The ON position is a manual override that will light the burners, if the batteries are dead or the remote has failed.

Once you've replaced the batteries, be sure the slide switch is in the Remote position. If not, the hand held won't work.

If all of this fails, please contact me through the Comments Section and provide me with who the manufacturer is and the model number of the remote control unit.

Hope this helps you resolve the problem.

E4 Outdoor activation of low pressure switch/ less suction pressure.

Check back pressure, which should be 60 PSI when ambient temp 98 degree.If not Short of gas- find leak and arrest. And do gas charging. Even due to indoor coil dust blocked also e4 arise. Clean the coil and reset it.