Fan motors there are 2 one inside and 1 outside. use a vacuum to clean up the outside first !! you can use oil to grease the bearings in it. only takes 2 drops. Hope this helps you.
It's possible to troubleshoot and potentially fix the noise issue in your Miele refrigerator yourself, but it's important to exercise caution and follow proper safety procedures. Here are a few steps you can take:
Unplug the Refrigerator: Before attempting any repairs, unplug the refrigerator from the power source to ensure your safety.
Remove the Top Inside Corner Panel: If you suspect the noise is coming from the top inside corner, you can try removing the panel to access the fan or components in that area. Check your refrigerator's user manual or Miele's website for specific instructions on removing panels or accessing internal components. If the panel has screws or fasteners, carefully remove them to detach the panel without damaging it.
Inspect for Obstructions: Once you have access to the inside corner area, visually inspect for any obstructions or loose components that could be causing the noise. Look for any debris, loose wires, or parts that may be hitting the fan or other moving parts. If you find any obstructions, carefully remove them.
Lubricate Moving Parts: If the noise persists, you can try lubricating the fan or other moving parts in the area. Use a food-grade lubricant or a specifically recommended lubricant for refrigeration equipment. Apply the lubricant according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Check Fan Blade Alignment: Ensure that the fan blades are properly aligned and not hitting any surrounding components. If the blades appear bent or damaged, they may need to be replaced. Contact Miele customer support or a qualified technician for further guidance on replacing fan blades.
Reassemble and Test: After addressing any issues, reassemble the panel and secure it back into place. Plug the refrigerator back in and test it to see if the noise has been resolved. Monitor the refrigerator over a period of time to ensure the noise does not return.
If, after attempting these steps, the noise persists or you encounter difficulties during the process, it is recommended to contact Miele customer support or schedule a service visit by a professional technician. They have the expertise and specialized tools to diagnose and repair complex issues.
Note: Working on appliances can carry risks, and it's important to be cautious and take necessary safety precautions. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing any steps, it's best to consult a professional technician to avoid potential hazards or further damage to the appliance.
Not dangerous, but inefficient and wasteful and eventually the compressor will fail. Compressor should shut off when it reaches the set temperature. If not, then the thermostat (temperature setting) is not working or the compressor is not working, most likely because of low or no refrigerant (freon). Put a thermometer in the freezer and see what temp is. If it is near 0 degrees F, then it is the thermostat. If it doesn't read near low single digits, then it's the compressor.
Usually due to a loss of coolant efficiency or a lack of Freon (or replacement coolant) and has to be checked and replaced. The other option is to replace the whole unit.
unplug for 5 mins. power it up. if still a problem check troubleshooting steps in handbook. likely needs Meile service guy to run diagnostic. if so keep his report. you can submit to your insurance co. if you have some such contents cover.
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
There seems to be a fundamental design problem the freezers.
Ice builds in the condenser and the defrost time allowed is not enough to defrost the ice
The defrost time is limited to about 8 minutes, at least 32 minutes would be required
as the condenser can contain up 1 litre of ice. The defrost element draws about 200W
If the freezer door is not closed properly the fan turns on after 15 minutes and very quickly ices up the evaporator. The freezer cannot recover from this. You will need to turn the freezer off for about 3 days to allow the ace to melt
Would have be sensible not to activate the fan when the door is open or to increase the defrost times accordingly
first...Check whether the ventilation gaps
have been covered over or become
dusty.
2. Check whether the metal grille (heat
exchanger) at the back of the
appliance has become too dusty.
It needs good area of circulation and clean coils/grilles.
it makes it hard to cool it down if dirty/dusty. I don't think the oven is doing it cuz operating in a room/outside which is too cold will cause the cooling system to switch
off for too long, causing the freezer
section to become too warm.
My best guess is vents and coils dirty/dusty.
