KLH Audio Players & Recorders - Page 11 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Take the top cover off with the unit unplugged, you will see the fuse just beside the big capacitors, diodes and the power transformer(and fuse current rating is written on the board) . The problem with your receiver is worse than a fuse I suspect. So, before replacing the fuse check for short circuit. If there is a short circuit specially power amp section(which is common to fail) the problem might get worse when you rplace the fuse without checking it. :)

Sounds like it is overheating. Try one or all of the following:

Remove anything that may be stored on top of it. Unblock the vents.

Connect speakers with a higher sensitivity rating.

Move it to an area where it has more airflow around it, ie; not in a closet or cabinet.

Disable any bass-boost and equalization, or tone controls.

Set any crossover settings for any subwoofer you may have connected, to a higher frequency.

Decrease your listening volume.

There are a lot of folks who've had power supply issues with this sub. Typically, the large resistors fail, which takes out the capacitors.

If you know how to read schematics and replace parts, then these might be helpful to you:

Here are the two pages of schematics from KLH. I wrote to their techdepartment and explicitly asked for permission to share them here.

Here's the lower board, which has the power supply:
KLH ASW 10-120 subwoofer schematic - lower board


Here's the upper board:

KLH ASW 10-120 subwoofer schematic - upper board

You need to specific the model, all KLH receivers do not have identical inputs.

Yes if your sub will let you do that. It should work fine but it may decrese some bass from your two sat. sperkers.

it's an 8 ohm driver. It need to be VERY efficient, around 90-91db @ 1w. Measure the enclosure size LxWxH then divide by 1728. That will give you your cu. ft. internal airspace of the box. Then look for a driver that will effectively work in that space. Shouldn't be too expensive, paper cone, foam surround, 8ohm impedance. Hope this helps

Try making sure that your drivers are all up-to-date, make sure your connection is plugged into the correct jack (usually green one for sound)
BTW is this for TV or PC?? also what windows system if its a pc?

Hi there,

Well Set Menu Buttons to select NO and press NEXT. It will now send test tones to your Left and Right speakers. If you hear the test tone in each speaker, press NEXT to cycle through the next set. Repeat this until you have tested all of your speakers. At the end, 2SP Level will be on the display. Press NEXT again to get back to the Basic Menu. If you did not hear a test tone out of any of the speakers, check all your speaker wire connections. This includes checking the physical connections at the back of the receiver and on the back of the speaker; then, check the speaker wire to be sure it has not been damaged or cut in any way. Please post comments for more help or information......

Good Luck!!

Thanks

470.000 ohms not 470 ohms 470k ohms at 5% tol. either the main p.s. diodes are shorted or the output and driver transtors are shorted causeing the fuse to blow....

Try using "Tuner wash" if your lucky it's just a bad volume antenuator. It can be found at any electronics parts store. ie. Radio Shack. Pull the knob off, put a rag around any area that you do not want to spray, then spray the control. Let it sit for a couple, work the control back and forth then spray again. Let it set for a few then test. If that does not work you can replace the knob relatively inexpensively at Radio Shack as well. Hope this helps

looked for a while for a manual but could find no reference to it, however set up of this system should be self explanatory:

assuming speakers are identified then it is simply a case of connecting the right speaker to the right output on the sub.

Rear speakers tend to use different frequencys from the front speakers so if you cable them incorrectly, it wouldn't harm the system, just probably sound rubbish.............

The simplest way is to insert the sub into the speaker wire run -- connect your receiver's speaker output to the sub input, then the sub output to the speakers.

These are the "High Level" connectors on the left side of your sub.

If your receiver has a subwoofer out (either one or a stereo pair) then you'll get better quality sound by connecting that output to the "Low Level" connector or connectors on the right. If you have stereo, then use both connectors. If your receiver only has one subwoofer output, then connect it to the left (may or may not me marked as "mono" depending on the age of your sub)

Hopefully that helps. If it's confusing, post back questions or post the details (brand and model) for your receiver.
If it's helpful, please hit the Thumbs-Up for me!

have you tried contacting KLH

First of all a resistor color coding of Yel-Vio-Yel is 470Kohms not 470ohms. You are probably reading some stray voltage in the circuit. Yes, both NEG terminals of the speakers are common. Usually a receiver that blows the main fuse has a power suplpy problem. Check the recifier diodes for shorts. Other than that, the output transistors may be shorted.

Check those out and post the results.

Dan

yes, if your reciever has a tape monitor. rec. out from reciever ti in on eq., then out on eq to in on reciever. then turn on the tape mon. on the reciever.. that is all you have to do except turning on the eq...enjoy

KLH 900B tweeter specifications: 6 ohm, 40 watts. By the way, KLH's QC for speakers could be improved. One of my 900B tweeters quit because the spacing for the voice coil was way off reasonable tolerance and the body of the speaker coil base pillar (ie: magnitized part) was off-center - and cauesd the coil to ware and short. I contacted KLH but they did not respond.

No TT input. Need to get a phono amp (a small line amp). Check your local Best But Radio Shack.

First check for a line level switch on the TT, Might be under the rubber mat a you may need to turn the platter to fine it. Older TTs probably wont have one.

Okay sounds like there is Fault in the power supply or the output transistor have shorted and is pumping the driver with DC....remove the driver and test with a muti-meter and using the 200 Ohm setting. put it across the terminals of the subwoofer make sure it is disconnected from the amp module....if it is a 8 ohm driver you may get somewhere from 4-8 ohm reading if its a 4 ohm somewhere from 3-6 ohms....if you are getting a 0 ohm or "short" or a really high or infinity "open" reading then the driver probably has caused damaged to the output transistors in the amplifier module. connect the muti-meter to to the red a black leads from the amp module that was going to the speaker...put the muti-meter on the highest possible DC voltage setting Mine goes to 1000VDC and power up the sub amp module now you may get a jump and power up but then it will drop to around 1.0v (or less) that is normal but if it stays high like anywhere from 30-150 VDC then you have blown output transistors (remember if you dont have this issue just skip forward!)...if this is the case pull out the amp module (remember to follow warnings and disconnect from mains power) now the DC filter caps in the module stay charged for long time after power is removed remember: test before touching!! now hopefuly all transistors are laid out infront and you wont have to dig for them the're normally are mounted flat and bolted to a external heatsink on the back. test between all junctions of the transistors B+E C+E C+B make sure there are no shorts...if there is a short replace the transistor. across from it there is its partner...replace him to! more than likely he's faulty because they work in whats called a Complimentary pair...the PNP pulls up the postive and the NPN pulls up the negative..together making a full audio signal. now after replacing all the faulty transistors test for DC on output leads. If there is none carefully connect a NEW driver of the same impendance as the old one.....but do not connect up the old one because you will blow the amp again....now power up and test for sound....all good????


Now if there is NO DC leaking on the Output leads but its still blows fuses there is a power supply fault! pull out the amp module now there is two types of power supply that this sub (or any amp for that matter) uses Switchmode Power supply (SMPS) or the normal transformer supply.im hoping for your sake it is a normal transformer supply it makes it soo much easier to fix....now be very careful you need to check the DC filter capacitors for shorting or any other issues! so undo the board from whatever it is mounted on, now remeber these capcitors can stay charged for along time so be sure to test before touching...if they are still charged and you want to dischrge them i use a 100W bulb (not an energy effiecnt bulb...but a Normal filament globe ) and connect up two leads to it...now put it across the capcitor banks...it will glow brightly and it will slowly dimm....power discharged!!
remeber to check that all caps are fully discharged!!
now test with muti-meter again on ohms mode and check for any shorts...now as you test the resistance will get greater as the caps charge up...this means all is good but if the meter stays at short then you have an issue with one of the filter caps (now if there is a short the caps will not have charge in them but still test!!) Now carefully remove each cap and test to finally locate the shorted one(s)...if there is no fault in Filter caps i would check the power transformer on the primarys so disconnect the leads from the power input socket (remembering the whole time we're doing this power is disconnected!!) and check with ohms meter there could be fault in which case you need to get a new transformer..if its not a faulty transformer.. i would be checking all mains power connections: the switch,interconnection leads,the fuse holder ect...to make sure there is no shorts...now if the power supply is a switchmode supply i would not even go there! i can repair them but it is way to hard to describe here and is not suggested for a DIY'er to attempt to repair but if its 6 years old it should be the way i have described above (normal transformer supply)......feel free to contact me if you need some more help in repairing this..E: [email protected]
Depending where you are in the world most of the parts for amps can be sourced at local electronic stores or you could ask local repair stores to order parts in for you..if you are in Australia..if you want you can send me the numbers on the parts i can arrange them for you and post them out to you! good luck and i hope this can fix it,ben

1. See if the rear speakers were pressed disable thru
your controls (either remote or in board). Just
press enable, to let it function.
2. If thedefect is still there, check the wires going to
the rear speakers if this is disconnected,
especially for plug on type. Open the plugon
connector and see the soldered wire at the
terminal. This could be disconnected. Have re-
soldered, and replace the plugon connector .
3. Then, power it up, and see if it works.

hello their, running speaker wires that are a thicker gauge will allow you less distortion as well as more power. when the wires are extremely small, it;s like pushing air threw a very small tube, the larger the tube the less electrical resistance you will encore, their is also a tip their, if you have a 1,200 watt mono single channel amp running @ 1 hertz you would be better off running thick ground and power wires, threw a distribution block before the fuse to the battery, the fuse is actually necessary cause 75 amp's running direct threw a wire is dangerous if not properly fused. fires can start, as well as damage to any electronic equipment. please use proper fusing (example taking a wire and briefly touching ground to power will destroy and violently ark a wire apart.)