Char-Broil Grilling - Page 9 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Your model Char-Broil LP Gas Grill use Lava Briquets on the lower grate above the burner(s). Any generic type will work. Just space them in evenly on the grate in one layer. You'll probably have some left over. So store them in an airtight container for future use (replacement).

If it is gass, then you don't have to let it warm up, if not then you wait unitl the flames go down.

If the first burner's flame characteristic's look right, the remaining burners need to be removed and the venturi valves and burner orifices checked for obstructions and cleaned if necessary.That's generally the cause of delay ignition.

Hope this helped and Happy Grilling!

John, increasing the Btu output would present a safety hazard. As the grill was built, tested and approved for exactly what the maximum Btu output is now. I wouldn't recommend doing it.

Certainly does sound like a poor design. Are you sure there aren't some parts missing or overlooked?

A quick fix would be to use two lengths of some light weight Brass chain and 4- appropriately sized bolts, washers and nuts. Attach one length of chain to each side of the hood/lid with a bolt and attach the remaining ends to the interior of the firebox with another bold.. Each chain's length will be determined by where you want the lid to stop, once it's raised. Leaning slightly back past 90 degrees would probably be safer.

Hope this helps to solve your problem.

If knob doesn't have an allen or set screw that holds the knob to the valve shaft, they should just pull off.

I hade the same problem! the new propane bottles the valve inside where it screws in it wont open
all the way?.

More than likely, the regulator is locked up.

Turn of the propane tank, disconnect the hose from the tank, Wait five minutes and reconnect the hose. Turn the tank valve on VERY, VERY SLOWLY, until it's fully open. Light each burner individually (that's assuming you have more then one burner), the one furthest from the tank, first. Turn it to the highest flame height and then light the other burners using the same procedure.

If that solves your problem, remember whenever the tank is turned off, turn the tank valve on VERY, VERY SLOWLY.

If that didn't solve your problem, you need to remove and clean all the burners, as well as the venturi valves.

Hope this helped to solve your problem.

Sounds like you may have a tank of bad gas. Green is not a color related to the flame description of gas appliances. Blue, Yellow & Orange are pretty much it.

It depends on which part of igniter you want to replace or the entire igniter? The answer to that question can be determined by the specific problem is you have with the ignitor. In some cases it doesn't need to replaced, just simply cleaned.

Please get back to me through the comment section of this reply, so I may further help you.

First, be sure you have the battery turned the right way. Generally the Positive Tip (+) should be facing up. Yours may be the opposite, so try it both ways. Also, when you remove the battery look inside the holder for signs of corrosion. If there is some, do your best to clean it out with a Q-Tip soaked in WD-40.

If none of the above seems to solve the problem, look for loose wires from the Ignitor button assembly to the Ignitor Elements (Tips) in the grill. Also, the Ignitor Elements at each burner in the grill may be covered with grease, which will prevent them from firing. If you see that, clean them with alcohol.

Those are the basic things that cause a battery operated ignitor to fail.

Hope this helps to solve your problem. Please let me know.

YES, YOU CAN DO A MATCH.
BEFORE YOU LIGHT IT WITH A MATCH, REMOVE THE TOP GRILL TO
EXPOSE THE BURNER BELOW IT.
THIS WAY THE MATCH WHEN LIT AND THROWN IN WILL NOT GET STUCK IN THE
GRILL AREA WHILE THE GAS IS ON. THEN MORE GAS WILL BE IN THERE
BEFORE YOU GET ANOTHER MATCH LIT TO THROW IN. NEXT THING
YOU KNOW, THE MATCH DROPS DOWN IN BETWEEN THE GRILL AND
FINALLY MAKES THE BURNER AREA AND GOES 'BOOM'!
REMOVING THE TOP GRILL MAKES IT EASY TO TOSS THE MATCH
DOWN BY THE BURNER AFTER A FEW SECONDS WITHOUT A 'BOOM'.
TO FIX YOUR ELECTRONIC START BUTTON ON MOST UNITS, RE-POSITION
THE ARC UNIT IN THE BURNER AREA, TO BE CLOSER TO THE METAL IT ARCS TO.
IT IS MOST LIKELY VIBRATED AWAY FROM IT TO FAR AND THE ARC WILL NOT REACH
METAL OR GROUND TO MAKE AN ARC TO LIGHT THE GAS.

The air intake on each burner needs adjusting, as you have an improper ratio of gas to air. The burner flames should have blue base with yellow tips.

When you disconnected the hose from tank and waited 5 minutes, did you turn the tank valve ON VERY, VERY Slowly? If not, that's the problem.

One other thing might be, since you said you're in Chicago and it's cold out. The regulator on the hose may be frozen. In which case, soak a towel in hot water, ring it out and quickly wrap it around the regulator. If it is frozen it will thaw it out. Be sure the tank valve is ON when you do this.

Happy Grilling!!

The single ignitor wire should attach at the back of the "push button" starter. It will be on the front panel and probably says "push to light".

you can try , how long is the warranty? is this covered by your warranty in most cases you can't ..

I hope this is what you are looking for.

http://www.charbroil.com/bps/char-broil/char-broil/knowledge/cookingguide_tbeturkeyfryer_2009.08.pdf

Good Luck

What you're looking for can be found @ the following link

http://www.charbroil.com/Support/default.aspx

Fuel starvation is the likely cause. Pressure regulator is bad, or an orifice is clogged.

Unfortunately, you'll have to replace the hose and the regulator. As what you have, is really all one piece. The hose/regulator combination is not that expensive and there are generic ones that will work. Be sure to take your hose/regulator combination with you to your hardware store, Lowe's or Home Depot to get the proper size and length. Look at sending around $15.00 to $20.00 for the combination.

When you install the new one, be sure to check for leaks before using the grill.