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Ibanez Music | Answered on Dec 09, 2017

Request the schematic diagram directly from Roland.

Roland Boss... | Answered on Dec 08, 2017

That is a discontinued model.
Check which way it is losing tuning. If from the machine heads, very unusual, try an extra turn on the tuning bar. If the string is slipping at the bridge end, check the fitting of the strings.
If you make a mark with a felt tip pen on the 12th fret position on the string, see which way it moves.

Taylor Leo... | Answered on Dec 07, 2017

You need a new laser or laser mechanism. You can order one online no problem. The part number is: Sony KSS 213Q. make sure there is a Q at the end of it because sony makes a lot of different laser types and the one inside the Stanton C.324 is the Q. Yes the C.324 has Sony guts. You might also want to look into ordering a RF Signal Processor Chip. the part number is: CXA 2581N. Once again make sure the part number ends with a N. This part you might have a little more trouble finding online but it is possible. The laser mechanism you can find on Ebay for about 20$ to 30$ and if you order it from stanton magnetics it will run you about 200$. The signal processor I bought the other day from a Sony parts Dealer in my home town for 20$. Im having an Electronics Repair place do it for very cheap. If you send your stanton c.324 to stanton magnetics you will end up paying more than the turntable is worth brand new unless you have valid warranty still on it.

Hope I could help you with the problem. Cheers.

Stanton C314... | Answered on Dec 07, 2017

Ugh! the only way to fix this is to dismantle your D-20 to get to the bottom of the key bed. There are rubberized strips under the keys that have pads which make contact (hence, key contacts) in several places with the actual keys. The strips are attached with rubber nibs that snap into place on the base of the key bed. The reason for the lack of sound and/or the millisecond delay is a speck of dust that somehow made its way onto the contact for that key. If you decide to take this task on by yourself, make sure you clean the rubber strips (yeah I'd do all of them while you're in there) completely with canned air and contact cleaner in a dust free environment, and be sure to attach the rubber strips completely to make a dust-free barrier. Once you see the strips, the explanation will make sense. If this sounds overwhelming, take the board to a repair shop and their tech will fix this for you, as they see this issue all the time with velocity-sensitive keyboards. Good Luck!

Music | Answered on Dec 06, 2017

This is a tough one because your LED for the Level Set is Illuminated, meaning that it sees a signal. With that being the case, the signal from the mic is getting from the input jack to the channel strip, but is not passing through to the preamp for that channel. So....either the channel strip is faulty, or the circuit going to the preamp is bad. As the other channels are probably ok, the trouble is most likely in the channel strip for Channel 1. Definitely have this looked at by a tech familiar with Behringer boards. If you can function without that channel, it will be cheaper than the repair, as the design of your board prohibits swapping out channel banks. I wish you luck and success with this issue.

Music | Answered on Dec 06, 2017

Greetings! Ok, your amp has an XLR (3-prong) Low-Impedance input on Channel 1 for a Mic. All the other inputs are 1/4" High Impedance inputs, which are for instruments and/or other High Impedance items including low quality High Impedance Microphones. The SM48S is a high quality Low Impedance microphone, so if you use it with a 1/4" plug, it will be in a High Impedance channel, and will be very LOW in volume in comparison with everything else. So, you must use an XLR (3 prong) cable from the Mic to the Channel 1 input on your amp. That will do the trick. Good Luck with your new amp and Mic!

Behringer... | Answered on Dec 06, 2017

If you buy a second hand, it may have been damaged in mini switch (tact switch) under the WRITE button. You need to replace the tact switch. Easy and inexpensive, you can do yourself, only with a little knowledge of soldering

Tact Switch:patch-not-saving-write-button-not-yaafdoculwfzpmwkmuxstabs-1-1.jpeg
You may also try the FACTORY RESET.
Restoring the GT-10 to the settings made at the factory is referred to as a "Factory Reset."
Not only can you return all of the settings to the values in effect when the GT-10 was shipped from the factory, you can also specify the range of settings to be reset.

If you do this"Factory Reset", all the setting on user memory (that you create) will be erased, so backup your setting before doing this steps.
For more detail on "Factory Reset", read the GT10 user manual:

Roland Boss... | Answered on Dec 06, 2017

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