Briggs & Stratton Measuring Tools & Sensors - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

A few more things to check.
1. The oil level. If the oil level is low the oil level sensor will ground the ignition.
2. Check the wiring from the seat safety switch to make sure it is connected.
3. Follow the black wires from the ignition control module to make sure none of them are chaffing and do not have a chassis ground.

If you still have problems disconnect ONE lead from the oil level sensor and see if you have spark. Most of the time these oil level sensors are the common failure.

Kelly

It sounds like a power problem. First check power lead is correctly plugged in. If going directly into a wall socket check the fuse in the plug and if necessary replace. How long has this been happening. Is it a recent occurrence?

valve is not opening right, hence the popping, the rocker arm may need to be tighten or is broke

an easy way to know that is to start engine and give it a shot of starting fluid ,if you can keep it running by this method I would replace diaphragm.

I am sorry, but these do not equate. cc (cubic centimeter) is a measure of volume, hp (horsepower) is a measure of power, like watts. There are many factors beyond the cubic centimeter displacement of an engine and the determination of horsepower. Kevin D

crank cover gasket is bad replace

sae 30 in winter sae 40 in summer i preffer rotela

I put a new carburator kit in a Briggs & Stratton 18 HP Twin. But did not replaced the needle nor the new seat that came with kit, because I did not know how to remove it and did not to damage it. now the gas over flows

Cold engine adjust the valve lash to 5 thousands (.005) for both exhaust and intake valves.

carb needs to be cleaned out and rebuilt

12.5 volts usally it works or it dosent

You may get lucky and have a sheared keyway on the flywheel . Just a lil off can make a big difference on timing.

This is a vary commom problem with an Intek engine, I have a similar 21HP engine with similar issue. The valve is sticking in the valve guide, the valve guide usually slides in or out. If out, the guide can jamb against the keepers and not allow full valve opening, thus bending the rod. Fix the loose guide and tight valve before you put in another rod, or you will soon be putting more rods in. I think B&S should help everyone on this one. If the guide goes in, it can cause the valve not to close fully and cause a no run condition.

No. Cubic centimeter (cc) is a unit of volume. Horsepower is a unit of power. Two different 250 cc engines, for example, may put out different amounts of power, while 250 cc of sand won't put out very much.

if it's a 6 volt battery you're ok if it's a 12 volt battery then there is a problem

Exhaust valve is not closing completely or the valve seat is cracked.

Did the engine run out of coolant or oil, if so you may have to replace the engine. Did you do a oil change and over fill with oil ? Could you please forward more information.

take 2 foot of 1/4 fuel line or 5/16 fuel line. screw it into the spark plug hole. if not fit bevel end with grinder or knife. BLOW while slowly turning engine. should come out intake, then exhaust then during compression and power stroke no valves open. If leaks out a valve tap the top of the valve with a screw driver during top dead center power thru the spark plug hole to seat it. if it leaks out the crank case you have bad piston/cylinder rings.

The alternator (P/N 592831) should put out around13-14 volts DC with no load (other than charging the battery. If the voltage drops only when the deck is engaged but not when the lights are on it could be a connection to the mower clutch causing excessive current draw. I suggest covering the fundamentals such as ensure the battery is healthy, ensure all connections are clean and tight before condemning the stator. then and only then would I remove the flywheel to inspect the stator.