AEG Dishwashers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity. It is likely to be a control board issue. They are expensive, so call for diagnostics and service. The reason the dishes aren't clean is because it is stuck on wash, so there is no draining and rinses. This machine has some history! https://www.google.com/search?q=aeg+f34300vi0+dishwasher+keeps+running ..

If your AEG FAVORIT 35085 Vi dishwasher beeps five times and stops halfway through a wash cycle, there could be a few potential causes for this issue. One possibility is that there is a problem with the water supply, such as a clogged or partially blocked inlet valve. Another potential issue could be related to the drainage system, such as a clogged filter or a malfunctioning drain pump. It's also worth checking if the dishwasher's spray arms are spinning freely and not obstructed by any debris. If the problem persists, it is recommended to consult the dishwasher's manual or contact AEG's customer support for further assistance. They can provide specific troubleshooting steps and guidance based on your dishwasher's model and any error codes that may be displayed.

If the anti-flood device has activated on your AEG dishwasher, it means that water has leaked into the base of the dishwasher and triggered the safety device. The anti-flood device is designed to prevent water damage to your home and shut off the water supply to the dishwasher. To resolve this issue, you will need to locate the source of the leak and fix it. Here are the steps you can take:

1. Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it from the power outlet.
2. Disconnect the dishwasher from the water supply and move it away from the wall.
3. Check the inlet hose, outlet hose, and drainage hose for any cracks, damage, or loose connections. Tighten any loose connections and replace any damaged hoses.
4. Check the dishwasher door and gasket for any damage or debris that may prevent it from closing properly.
5. Check the dishwasher's interior for any leaks, such as a cracked spray arm or a damaged pump.
6. Once you have fixed the leak, you can reset the anti-flood device by tilting the dishwasher to one side to allow the water to drain out of the base. Then, level the dishwasher and plug it back in.

If you are unable to identify or fix the leak, it is recommended to call a professional technician for assistance.

no info generic answer inlet valve failure --short in valve circuit

AEG Favorit 40850 Problem : Water not heating. Solution : Checking the heater Access to the heater (tube type) is via the small rear panel. Remove two star screws, and pull the sides out SLIGHTLY to release the panel. The electrical contacts of the heater are to the inside so are not visible yet. I removed the left hose (hose compression clip) and the earth connection on the bottom of the heater. This allowed me to twist the heater round and see the electrical connector. I removed this, and measured the resistance of the heater. It was 28Ω, from reading various forums, this seems to be of the correct order, therefore the heater is ok. I put everything back together, remembering the earth connection on the bottom, and turned to the front of the machine Checking the Relay : Again from reading around there is a relay in the supply chain to the heater, described as ?in the door?. I opened the door and removed the crosshead screws. This released the front panel from the inner metal part. The control switches and the mains switch are held in with clips, easily removed, I guess you could leave the mains switch connected to the front panel, but I removed it so that the skin would not be pulling on any wires. I then wrote (with an indelible pen) a number on all the connectors to the control box, noting that one of them has to be fitted at one particular end of the unit connector, as it could fit in more than one position. With the control unit removed the next step was to open it up. The control unit is clipped together with four clips, just press them in and it opens. At this point I should say that there are proper electronics inside this box, so some sort of static protection should be observed! Ground yourself before working inside the unit, touching something metal connected to ground should to the trick (radiator, but not the painted part!), and do not touch any of the components on the board, or the connections. Be careful of the flexible connection between the two boards, do not bend it any more than necessary. The relay mentioned above is in the bottom left of the board in my extremely bad picture. Unclip the main board, and have a look around where the relay is on the other side. One of my pins was charred, and on closer inspection was not actually making contact!! Looks like it was a bad / high impedance joint that was getting hot, and finally melted the solder causing the open circuit that made the heater not work. With a soldering iron I reflowed the solder (adding more as necessary) to make the connection between the relay pin and PCB good. This was the only visible problem, so I reassembled everything (reverse order of disassembly, Haynes is a wonderful manual!!!) and tried the machine. IT WORKED!!! The whole process took probable less than an hour, and saved the cost of a repair man, and a new control unit (I don?t think anybody fixes things like this on a commercial bases any more, easier for them to just replace the unit!! This is what I did to fix my water not heating problem, I am experienced with electrical and electronic components, so if you choose to follow my story please be careful, it can save a few pounds, but it?s not worth risking your life if you really don?t know what you are doing. For interest, the relay is a NAIS device, numbers on the top are JS1-B-12V-F-H111, and AJS1311F MO1. My relay was working so I didn?t need to look for a replacement, but they should be fairly easy to find if yours is broken. Being an electromechanical device this is probably the most unreliable component in the heater chain, although if the rest of the circuit is designed correctly should last for years, if not decades. (I have seen relays used in gas boilers that had no suppression, and therefore burnt themselves out within 3-4 years, but I don?t think that is the case here)

Did you check the emergency shut off switch? Almost all under the counter dishwashers have a wall switch to interrupt the power. The problem is it can be shut of on accident.

AEG Favorit 40850 i30 error - this is the anti-flood error. I did the tipping-over trick, great, but for me, the problem got more and more frequent until the machine would not run. So I took it apart and this is what I found: in the drainage area, next to the water drain, is a sensor. This has been described to me by a dealer as a 'temperature sensor'. I am not sure if this controls the anti-flood system, it may well do, as it is the only one in there. However, the problem is not caused by the sensor itself - around the sensor is a black rubber grommet (seal). In my machine (4 years old) this was badly perished - the rubber had become soft and oily, and about half of it had gone. The sensor itself was covered in oily goo from the grommet. I think that bits of the grommet have been coming off and jamming in the drain, and maybe causing the sensor itself not to work properly. I changed the grommet (£5 part), and it all works great. If you want to do this yourself, follow these instructions:

• turn off power and uplug dishwasher
• you need a screwdriver with torx bits
• put lots of old towels on the floor
• remove top panel using 2 screws at rear top, then push top backwards and lift off
• remove front base fascia panel by sliding to left
  
• remove right side panel - undo 2 screws at top, one at rear bottom, one at front bottom
• front edge of side panel is wedged inside white trim - just ease it out, it isn't held in.
• open dishwasher door and push down fully
• remove curved front base panel - undo screws right up at the top of the panel, this is a tight fit against the door but you can get in if the door is pushed down fully
• tip dishwasher over onto left side
• follow the drain pipe in, this takes you to the drain pump
• if you want to check the drain pump and pipe, twist the whole pump motor assembly to the left about 15mm - there are 3 tabs that hold it in place, you need to rotate the motor past the tabs, then you can pull it out
• DO NOT remove the spring clips on the large drain pipe (50mm diameter) between the pump motor and the dishwasher drain - these are very difficult to get back on properly, and once you have taken the pump motor off you can feel right through to the dishwasher drain hole anyway.
• you can take the spring clip off the white oultet hose if you want - this goes back on easily. Check the outlet pipe with a long drain-clearing spring or similar.
• about 50mm further towards the front of the machine from the drain hose, going around the drain assembly, is the sensor described above
• this has wires going into into it, is about 25mm diameter, and you will see the black rubber grommet around it
• this is held in place with 2 plastic clips, ease these back and pull it out. TAKE CARE not to break these clips.
• If the grommet is heavily worn or perished, you need a new one. The part number is written on the surface of the grommet.
• reassemble in reverse order. Before you put the panels back on, and with the power still OFF, tip the dishwasher back upright again, open the door, and pour 1 litre of water in (this will end up on your kitchen floor, so don't put too much in).
• Check carefully under the machine, with a torch, around the areas where you have been working - the sensor and the drain pipes - to make sure there are no leaks.
• If it all seems OK, dry the floor, turn the power on and run the dishwasher. MAKE SURE you are standing on dry floor when you do this. Check under the dishwasher again for leaks.
• Let the dishwasher run a complete cycle. Check for leaks when it is pumping out.
  
• If everything seems OK, turn the power off again, put the panels back on, then turn the power back on.

Good Luck!

Look at the screen on the drain.if its clear then check your drain for leaks
As it could be building pressure on the system..by not draining proper.

If you are reading this, then you probably own an AEG dishwasher with a ceiling arm. This part is important for the dishwasher to function properly and needs to be cleaned regularly. However, if it becomes loose or falls off, it can be a real headache to try and reattach it. In this article, we will walk you through the process of how to fix a ceiling arm back onto your dishwasher.

I would check for any bends in anything... a crimp of a wire or bend of a hose can mean the washer will not complete setup and will just refuse like a stubborn mule. If you find no bends or crimps in wires... the brain may be dead. It will be one solid motherboard and should be fairly easy to replace.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Washing Machines category. That sounds like a partially broken wire or a control board issue. You need a service call.

possibly a stuck float

USUALLY IN THE WATER PAN

The hose could be clogged or an issue with the valve assembly.Or something being stuck in the inlet water valve. Check to see if there is any problems coming from where the water enters into the tub for your dishwasher mostly on the left side wall of the tub on your dishwasher.

Some companies share generic codes like 'Lw', for low water level or 'DL' for Door Lock. This might help, there are other sites when Googling 'make model error codes'.

AEG Dishwasher Error Codes ' Dr. Dishwasher

www.drdishwasher.com > manufacturer > error-codes

Error/Fault Codes for AEG Dishwashers with an LED Display Fault Code ,10 Symptom: Dishwasher not filling with water. Go to: Why is My Dishwasher Not Filling ...

You can test the element which is the most likely failure, but you need a multimeter set to ohms (resistance). An element is a coil that resists electricity and heats up. You disconnect the leads to the heater element and it should show resistance, movement on the dial or a figure on a digital multimeter. If the element has failed, there will be no reading at all. If it worked before, it will be probably be worth fixing, but don't just blindly buy parts in the HOPE it might fix it. Diagnose and replace, or call a service tech. https://www.google.com/search?q=Aeg+favorit+FSS62800P ..

open the door when in cycle and check both spray arms are rotating. you will get a bit of water out but not a lot. if arms not rotating, then this is caused usually by rubbish in the spray arm jets so clean them. also check water is being heated

http://www.usersmanualguide.com/aeg/dishwasher/favorit_525_u https://www.manualslib.com/manual/44456/Aeg-Favorit-Compact-525i.html AEG Favorit Compact 525i Operating Instructions Manual

We had this a while back on ours. For us it meant that the flood prevention system had kicked in. I took the metal panel at the bottom at the front off and sucked out water with a syringe until it started working again. We think the problem was that something was blocked with grease so ran a hot cycle with a Finish cleaning cartridge in.