The outside unit is running, fan is working, but the furnace will not start... it's getting hot in here!

The bearings are bad in the motor and after the fan runs enough it eventually gets hot, making the bearing screech and the fan locks up. Need to replace motor again. See if it has a warranty. The reason it gets hot is because the fan is what removes the heat from the coil and if the fan isn't running there is nothing to cool it off so to speak.

Does your furnace have an adjustable fan limit switch it has to be adjusted. If it has a timer check if it can be adjusted.

Hello, a blower motor will not run for one of theese three reasons 1) No power to motor 2) bad capacitor 3) the motor itself is bad. One test you could do is take the wire of the L1 terminal on the control board and use a jumper wire and connect it to the wire on the high speed motor tap , if this gets the unit running then the control board must be replaced if it does not work then the motor is shot......make suremwhen disconnevting wires the power is off.

Hello, the unit is low on Refrigerant due to a leak. The unit will need to be repaired and recharged with refrigerant.

First check if the fan is running. If the fan is notrunning is the compressor not running also, if neither is running the possiblereasons are 1, no power to outside unit, 2.bad contactor on outside unit, isthis buzzing if it is this indicates no power, 3 bad capacitor, do bothcompressor and fan humm then quit humming and hum some more, 4 high pressure switchhas shut unit down because fan wasn't running if compressor was running but notfan, if your unit has this there will be a manual reset button where the lines come out ofunit. If compressor was running and fan was not, 1 bad fan or 2 bad capacitor. Please check these followings: 1. Thermostat checks i) Is thesystem selector switch in the "Cool" position?
ii) Is the temperature set at least 3 degrees below current room temperature?
iii) If your thermostat is electronic, are the batteries charged?
iv) Some forced-air furnaces have a switch on the thermostat that allows you toturn the fan on independently of the furnace or air conditioner. This switchwill be marked "ON" and "AUTO". Does your thermostat havesuch a switch?
v) If the answer to the above is Yes, listen for the furnace fan coming on. Ifyou cannot hear the fan, go to one of the supply registers and see if you canfeel any air coming up. Is the furnace fan operating?

If everything seemsfine with the thermostat, the next step is to make sure there is power going tothe furnace.

2. Electrical checks

(A) Items to check at the furnace i) Your systemmay be equipped with an emergency shut-off switch for the furnace. If so, makesure it is turned ON. In most homes, the emergency shut-off switch looks justlike a regular light switch and will be located close to the furnace. (Tracethe wire from the switch to the furnace to make sure you have the right switch.)It is quite common for this switch to be turned off accidentally. If the switchis ON, but the fan still doesn't operate, proceed to the Items to check at theelectrical panel.
ii) Some heating systems also have emergency cut-out switches that are activatedwhen a door or service panel is removed. Often the furnace door is not replacedproperly after a filter cleaning and the cut-out switch will prevent thefurnace from coming on. Check to make sure all access doors are properlysecured and fitted. (B) Items tocheck at the electrical panel i) Thebreakers for the air conditioner and the furnace should be in the"ON" position. If a breaker has been tripped, it will be in aposition between ON and OFF. To reset, turn the breaker all the way off and thenback on. If you have fuses instead, make sure the fuse hasn't blown. If it has,replace it with the same-d fuse. If you havedetermined that there is power to the furnace but you are still not getting anyheat, select your heating fuel type from the list below and continue with thechecks. If you have discovered that the furnace is not getting any power, callyour service contractor. (C) Items tocheck at the air conditioner i) Somecentral air conditioners are installed with a switch, or electrical disconnect,mounted outside to turn off the main power to the unit. Whether or not you havesuch a switch will depend on the electrical code in your area. If you have adisconnect switch, check to make sure it is in the ON position.
ii) Is the fan running on the unit outside? (If the fan is running, you havepower to the unit.)
iii) Some air conditioners will make a little buzzing sound, even when they arenot running. Have you ever noticed this before? Can you hear it now? Summary: Ifyou have determined that there is power to both the furnace and air conditionerbut you are still not getting any cool air, continue with the checks in thisguide. If either the furnace or air conditioner does not have power, call yourservice contractor. (D) Icechecks i) Is thereice building up on the pipes connecting the furnace to the air conditioningunit outside?
ii)Touch the plenum (this is the sheet metal box that comes off of the furnace;the evaporator coil is inside). Does it feel very cold? If it does, theevaporator coil may be frozen and you'll need to call for service Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

It sounds like the unit may be over charged. Make sure the outside coils are clean and you have plenty of airflow coming out of the top of the outside unit. What could be happening is, when the temps get higher outside, so do the pressures in the system. The compressor has a thermal overload protection that will kick the compressor off if it gets to hot, which if the compressor is over charged, it will work twice as hard, over heat and shut off. You would need a technician to come out and get the refrigerant charge back to normal. Another thing that could be happening is a weak or faulty capacitor, which is a small round or oval metal object, found in the electrical compartment on the unit. This are fairly simple to change out if your comfortable with electric. I've also had to put what's called a hard start kit on compressors with the same problem, new and old. The hard start basically gives it that extra boost of power to get it up and going. I would start with the refrigerant charge and go from there. The electrical "humming" sound that you hear unless you turn the breaker to the furnace off, is the contactor on the outside unit having a call for cooling. The 24 volts come from the furnace, to the outside unit, and pulls the contactor in to power the unit with the 220 volts supplied. It is normal and you don't have to worry about that at all. I hope some of this helps and good luck!

Have you checked your filters to make sure they are not dirty? Is the Insulated suction line starting to get
covered in ice? Is the indoore coil Iced up?

If yes, turn furnace off, try and change the filters,leave
unit off for awhile while it unthaws and try it a few hours later.

two things to try first to get you pointed in the right direction. First disconnect the R or RH wire from the T-Stat. If the furnace turns off (Stops firing w/ fan to turn offabout 90 sec. later) then you more than likely have a bad Thermistat. If it continues to run Pull the R wire from the Furnace circuit board. put door back on furnace if it stops you have a short in the wire. Still Running? Most likely a bad curcuit board. Hope this helps.

check you capicitor

put the just the fan on turn off the ac and the heat and just fan on make sure the blower motor works cause thats really the only thing you utilize from the furnace in the summer and let me know
then if so does your heat work fine