Audiophase CA-813 output specs and wiring suggestions
I need to know the max output, watts and ohms, that an audiophase CA-813 car stereo can put out.
I need the Ohms because I intend to install 6 speakers instead of the original 4. This brings me to another question:
How would I wire this? I've got one set of infinity 552i speakers 4 ohms, one set of Fei Lo (cheap chinese?) YD140-A1 speakers 8 ohms, and one set of kenwood t10-0286-03 woofers 8 ohm.
should they be run with the infinity's on front channel with Fei Lo and the Woofers in parallel on the rear channel??
I know this is a strange mish mash of cheap ****, but cheap is what I've already got on hand.
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The number on the panel of your car stereo is not a measure of actual volume. It is just a comparative scale, with 0 being the minimum and 30 being the maximum. The volume as measured in decibels is dependent on the power level of the amplifier and impedance of the speakers. The internal amplifier puts out 22 watts per channel (50 watts peak) into 4 channels, and there are output jacks for an external amplifier(s). Product specs in link. JVC KD R850BT
there is a switch on the underneath of the stereo, make sure it's off and then just flick the switch over and then re-switch back on and and must do a re-set which is located on the front panel right hand sidecorner....
One possible cause is a mismatched speaker system. Most stereo equipment specifies 8 ohm speakers to match the 8 ohm amplifier output resistance. A well known electronic formula states maximum power transfer occurs when the resistance in and the resistance out are equal. When there is a mismatch, more power is required to obtain the same sound pressure levels. By turning the volume up higher to do this, the electrical requirements to drive the speakers at that level may be exceeding that which the amp can provide. When this happens, the amp shuts down due to overload. Continued operation in this condition can cause permanent failure.
Another possible cause is the power requirements of the speakers to be driven properly. Larger speakers require more power to move the speaker coil and and cone. Connecting a speaker that requires 10 watts to be driven to an amplifier that provides up to 8 or even 10 watts will require that the amp be operating at 100% of capacity. An amplifier run like this will have a short life.
Connect speakers that match the amplifier's impedance requirements (8 ohm types are pretty standard / common) and will operate with the amount of power (in watts) that the amp can supply. Make sure you're comparing watt ratings in similar units. "P-P" (Peak to Peak), "Peak" (or Max") and "RMS" are typical terms. RMS is the is the most common standard used, but as you'll see below, some manufacturers like to use different units to make their products seem to have more power than they actually do. You can convert easily between the terms like this:
200W P-P equals 100W peak, and also equals 71W RMS
"Peak" is 1/2 the value of "Peak to Peak" (P-P) and "RMS" which stands for Root Mean Squared, is 70.7% of Peak. 200W P-P sure sounds like it's more than 70W RMS - doesn't it? It's all pretty simple once you know. Lastly, the fictional unit "Music Power" can be anything really, but is often either Peak or P-P values. It's just more smoke and mirrors by some manufacturers.
I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thanks!
Hi, I'm not sure I understand your question, but the receiver has preamp outputs on the back. Connect these to the amp input using a stereo RCA cable. You must connect the amp to accessory power at the car's fuse box and use a fuse small enough to protect the wire. To size the fuse and wire, check the max power used by the amp. Use the blue wire from the receiver to "turn on" the amp. There is a connection on the amp for the head unit's blue wire. Make sure you connect the amp's ground with a wire as big as the power wire and make a solid connecting to the chassis. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Let me address the wiring kit first. No the higher wattage kit is not a problem however you will need to change the inline fuse to an amperage that is more suitable for 250 Watts. The amps main fuse will be able to protect the power supply but no need to have a larger fuse than needed.
Now lets talk about the fuse. First off what kind of amp is it? Just for my knowledge. What is the rated impedance that amp can drive bridged mono or stereo (however you have connected it) If the total impedance presented by the woofers is lower than what the amp can drive the amplifiers power supply will demand more current than is designed for. I guess what I need to know is the model of speaker, model of amplifier and size of the inline fuse (right next to battery). Initial diagnosis would say the load on the amp is too large.
Rule of thumb for calculating impedance. The easy way if you have two or more characteristic impedance that are equal then you can add them and divide by the number of impedance to get your total Load however the formula is as follows,
1/((1/Z1)+(1/Z2)+(1/Z3)+(1/Z4)) or (Z1^-1 +Z2^-1+Z3^-1+Z4^-1)^-1 (They are the same thing, just written differently)
In electrical terms Z is your impedance, the negative exponent just means reciprocal.
So in your case if you have 2 dual voice coil subwoofers with a 4 ohm per coil impedance. If you parallel the two coils you would have a 2 ohm impedance. Then if you parallel the two woofers you would have a 1 ohm impedance. This is to low of a load for your amp to drive.
The OEM speakers will still work OK with your new Pioneer. Just don't turn it up too loud. Of course you'll get improved sound if you replace the speakers. Your Pioneer's RMS power is 14 watts, and the peak (maximum) power is 50 watts. The door speakers in a 2000 Honda Civic are 6.5" and you can get a set of Pioneer speakers, the TS-G1642R's, from Crutchfield for less than $50. Their RMS power range is 2-30 watts and they can handle a peak power of up to 180 watts.
Not sure what it means exactly but what pretty much all retailers advertise is the peak watt output, this is the most watts it will put out on a spike, such as when bass hits, the more hidden numbers you need to look for is the RMS, this is the constant output watts it will put out.
The DXZ375 has two sets of RCA outputs (1 red plug, 1 white plug) located on the back of the unit. The set with the white main wire is for a front amplifier, and the one with the black main wire is the rear. You want the black one.
I'm assuming you also have an amplifier for your subs and the necessary wiring. You will need to run a 12v+ from the battery to the amplifier, splice a power-on signal wire from the ACC Power wire on the stereo's wiring harness (red wire) as well as connect the amp to the stereo via the RCA outputs.