I installed it in July-08. It worked for few days with water leakage from starting point( inner unit). The flow level was perfect and i couldn't figger it out the fault. Now it stopped working no cooling atall showing error E4 ?
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take the sensor above water level--say in a bucket of water then lift it out of the bucket
if the mains water flows or stops flowing depending on whether the sensor is in or out of the water will indicate it sensor or solenoid of the rainbank
I suspect that the sensor will be a simple float arrangement filled with mercury so that when it is hanging down ( no tank water) the mercury bridges a set of contact points and makes a circuit and when it get to a fill point the mercury flows away from the points and so breaks the circuit
When the air gets cooled it also gets dehumidified, on the inside unit there should be a condensate drain. Check the drain to see if its clogged, also check to see there is a drain, I have seen units installed by "pros" who have forgot to intall it
Your not to clear about your problem. First I need more information. Is it a window unit, or through the wall or a split unit???
Usually when there is water leakage from a window or through the wall unit there could be one of two problems. One being a clogged area in the condensate pan not allowing the condensed water to flow out of the back of the uinit, or two, the unit is not properly tilted outward to allow the water to flow outside.
If it is a split unit and it was previously working fine then it most likely is stuffed with debris and should be cleaned out.
It ispossible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors possible failure of the controller unit. For the program to start up the main programcontroller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting fromthe flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit thewater at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then thevoltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to novoltage from the controller. This meansthe controller is a suspect.If thewater flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not theinlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at theinlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVELSENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen levelto give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What ismost important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch mustbe ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor forrinse and wash.
It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAINpump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.
If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.
12k BTUs will condense a gallon an hour easily, sounds like the problem is with a probable self-evaporating portion of the condenser. If so either the inner workings of that unit are dirty/malfunctioning or the exhaust duct is not getting proper airflow. If you're mechanically inclined I'd recommend pulling the unit apart and cleaning the condenser parts. If not perhaps try attaching a permanent drain hose to the drain plug. Definitely check the exhaust duct either way.
See the top of page 5 for guidance on setting the water level. Make sure you are turning the screw the correct direction (clock-wise) to reduce the fill level.
Is the refill tube properly connected? Should be connected to fill valve nipple and the other end clipped to direct flow to the inside of the overflow pipe.
Is water flow only through the overflow tube or is there leakage from the flush valve? Being only 3-months old you should not be having problems due to breakdown of rubber seals; however, check to make sure the toilet flapper is properly sealing against the flush valve.
1 Check if the radiator fan is working properly.
2 Check the level of coolant in the radiator. If less top it up.
3Check the oil level. May be the oil is less. If so top it up.
4 Check the water hoses are connected properly and there is no leakage at the connecting points.
5Get the fins at the radiator cleaned up to allow free flow of air.
6 If all this OK and the car is still getting overheated then either the water circulation pump or the oil pump is not functioning.