While a cleaning service was working on my microwave oven, it appears that they allowed fluids to leak into the electronics, possibly from above in the air vent or through some very heavy scrubbing on the control panel. Now some of the elements of the display come on incorrectly; for example - a 3 is displayed as a 9.
After much arguing, the cleaning service is now proposing to have someone remove the damaged panel and repair it. Is this feasible? I think it is unlikely to work.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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Jun 13, 2013 - I've seen some Microwave ovens that will not display a backlight anymore. They still work, but the display is so dim, you have to be inches away to. ...Monitoring the output of a light-dependent resistor, or photoresistor, allows ...
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sometimes when a microwave is mounted above a range some people dont always consider that you have to take into consideration that you have to go by the heat rating guidelines because it will melt the white lithium grease off the gearing and it can possibly melt some of the protective coating from the circuit boards so check if it is rated to be placed above a range and go from there
If there is no heating
please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible
that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main
capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven
and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make
the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron. Check this link to
know how a microwave works:
This not good! from your description the problem is in the keypad controller, on the back of the keypad is a circuit board that contains the microprocessor and additional parts that control vital areas of the microwave oven. The leak has penetrated the vital areas where the electronics are housed, I suggest you replace the microwave oven because the cost will probably more than what a new one will run.
unless something strange happened (like a spill) then the only component that has fluid in it is a large capacitor that is used to drive the magnetron ... if its case is ruptured then it will leak a few teaspoons of electrolyte .. thats a clear water or oil based liquid .. the failure of the aluminum case will cause a pop one time ... then its likelly the oven will quit working .. its also possible, if you have an outside vent for your microwave, that water is blowing into that vent down into the microwave .. check the exhaust to make sure its outside louvers are not damaged ..if it goes to the roof then make sure the rain cap is in place ..
The only way to tell for sure is to use a microwave leakage tester, which is an electronic instrument calibrated to standards for an accurate measurement. They are fairly expensive, so you aren't likely to run out and buy one. If you have reason to think your oven is leaking, you should call for service or take the oven in to a shop where they should have a tester.
Unless something has happened to damage the door sealing surfaces, your oven should not be leaking microwave. Check that the inside of the door and edges of the cooking cavity are kept clean of built-up food. Look at the door when it's closed. If it's straight side-to-side and is closing properly all around there should be no problem.
Do not believe the claim that you can test for leakage by calling a cell phone placed in the oven, and if the phone rings the oven is leaking microwaves. The shielding in a microwave is not effective at cell phone frequencies, which are much lower than microwaves. The phone will ring normally even in an oven with no measured leakage.
After self cleaning the range the door won't open.... The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
you might be able to just clean the ignitor to get it working again. Take it out and give it a good cleaning. If that doesn't work then it could be your spark module. If it is your spark module it will have to be replaced.
I have replaced spark modules and ignitors of ovens or ranges that you can no longer get parts for with whirlpool modules and ignitors. There are basically two types, just make sure you get the same type. One type , typically used by GE uses a continous ignitor that glows when it works, and Whirlpool (on most models) uses the spark module and ignitor that makes the clicking sound like your oven did for ignition.