Question about Epson PhotoPC 3000Z Digital Camera

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Spot metering on the Epson 3000z

I am working in the spot metering mode, trying to photograph isolated bright objects like a rising moon. Sometimes the spot meter mode yields good results and sometimes not. When the 3000z is in spot focus mode, about how large is the spot meter area (for example, in terms of how many square pixels) and where is it on the CCD (located in the center?).

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Re: Spot metering on the Epson 3000z

The spot meter area is small because I have photographed 2 people side by side many times, focused on ones chest then found that the "spot" had slipped into the little space between them, the bad focus not really showing up when I checked the LCD. (My eyes are old and so are my glasses.) Got home and found useless pictures. Sometimes I was outdoors in the sun and couldnt check the LCD. Some of the threads say the focus spot is "off center" with no acccurate way of finding it when using the viewfinder. I take some beautiful, wonderful pictures but these errors really tear me up. I've got to get the LCD box viewer with the 2x lens viewer I guess. All those years as a 35mm Canon F1 user I would long for a spot meter almost daily. Now I see that a matrix meter AND a spot is the real choice. I hope eventually to learn to outwit my 3000Z because it does give me such excellent pictures. Sometimes there is noise on a face, sometimes it is the focus and at functions it is so embarassing to ask a principal subject to wait because the *** or ***H procedures take so long. A wedding, other than the reception, would be near impossible in *** or higher. Good Luck, Dav.

Posted on Sep 13, 2005

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How to photograph super moon


You have to remember that the camera is just a machine and doesn't know what you're really trying to do. Left on its own, the camera sees a small bright spot and a lot of dark. It will try to make the entire scene an average gray, resulting in a gray background and a small featureless white blob.

You have to override the camera and switch to the manual exposure mode. There's an old rule of thumb called the "Sunny 16 Rule." This basically says that the proper exposure for a scene lit by a midday sun is with an aperture of f/16 and a shutter speed equal to 1/ISO seconds, where ISO is the speed of the film. The rule works just as well for digital as for film. The moon is just a big rock about the same distance from the sun as the Earth, lit by a bright cloudless sun, so the Sunny 16 Rule applies.

For example, at an ISO of 200, you want to start with an exposure at f/16 and 1/200 seconds or equivalent, such as f/11 and 1/400 seconds. One nice thing about digital photography is that you can see the result immediately and make corrections. Take a shot and review it on the screen. They sky will be black but you don't care about that. Zoom in on the moon. If the moon is featureless white, reduce the exposure. If it's too dark, increase the exposure. Keep trying until you get results you like.

The manual exposure mode is described on page 45 of the manual: http://www.fixya.com/support/p325601-sony_cyber_shot_dsc_f717_digital_camera/manual-49052

Another thing to bear in mind is that the moon will not appear very big with the lens on this camera.

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2 Answers

I would like to be able to take a good picture of a full moon on a clear night.


You're going to face two separate problems here.

One, the moon occupies a rather small portion of the night sky. Even fully zoomed in, the moon is going to be not much more than a bright spot in the sky.

Two, the camera is designed to assume that almost every scene is an average brightness. Given how much of the scene is a black sky, the camera will attempt to render the sky as average (what photographers call a "medium gray"). This will result in a picture with a gray sky and a featureless white blob for the moon.

If you think about it, the full moon is nothing more than a really big rock under a midday sun. Thus what you want is the same exposure as when taking a picture on a clear sunny day. Unfortunately the camera is going to be fooled by all that dark sky and try to compensate for it. What you really need is to be able to bypass the camera's light meter and set the proper exposure yourself. The C195, unlike more sophisticated cameras, doesn't allow you to do so. Sorry, but that's just the way it is.

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1 Answer

My nikon is takeing extremely bright photos. I have to change the settings ever time I want to photograph something. I have no clue what is wrong, but I need it fixed.


Do you have it in aperture or shutter priority modes? If so, do you also have exposure compensation set to overexpose? If you have it in manual mode, then you will, of course, have to make the adjustments each time.

If you have it in auto mode, it should be correcting the exposure for you, unless you have manually set the ISO to some very high level. Another potential issue would be that you have selected spot metering and you are metering on a very dark area, hence the camera is overexposing to make up for that.

I'd recommend setting the camera to auto-ISO and auto exposure and see how it works. If that checks out, then you can correct any settings in other modes.

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1 Answer

CANON Rebel RTI Outdoor pictures are dark


learning to use light metering correctly can have its challenge.
the manual will guide you on how to set up to read light from the subject. spot metering a dark area will cause general overexposure, or a washed out look. spot metering a bright area will cause a dark image. if you are on spot meter and shoot two people standing together against a bright lit background, your meter will see between them if they are centered, and read all that bright background, setting the camera to a less sensitive combination of aperture / shutter speed, resulting in a dark image. use field averaging meter setting and be sure you are metering the subject and not the background. try shooting a wall that is fairly clear of other colors and uniform it light hitting it, you should have a correctly exposed image. since it works in other modes (at least 1, anyway) then it is unlikely you have an exposure compensation issue. that is the only other non defect issue that would cause your problem.
once you confirm that you have these settings correct and still get a dark image, its time to have it serviced.
good luck
mark

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1 Answer

What is the difference in metering among multi-segment, spot, and center-weighted?


Multi-segment metering uses 256 segments to measure luminance and color. This data is combined with distance information to calculate the camera exposure. This advanced metering system will accurate worry-free exposures in almost all situations including backlight condition. Spot metering uses a small circle area within the middle of image to calculate the exposure. The spot allows precise exposure measurements of a particular object without being influenced by extremely bright or dark areas within the scene. Center weighted measures light values over the entire image area with emphasis given in the central region. In backlight condition or when the subject is not in the center of image, exposure compensation will be required.

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3000Z and Speedotron Flash power pack


You also may have a faulty hot shoe adapter or pc cord. Check them with an ohm meter, or with an old 35 mm camera. Or just short out the hot shoe contacts with a piece of metal and see if the strobes flash.

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1 Answer

Stuck pixel on 3000z


Sounds like you have a dust spot on the CCD, you should send your camera in for cleaning.

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2 Answers

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They make an LCD cover compatible with the Epson 3000z. In addition, there is a lens on the hood which magnifies the LCD by 2.

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s I understand it from what I have seen on the Web, the 3000Z can operate in several modes: 1. Fully automatic (camera select both 2. Manual (user sets both aperture and shutter speed). 3. Aperture Priority mode - user sets aperture and camera chooses correct shutter speed to get a good exposure Apparently there is no Shutter Priority mode (user cannot set only the shutter er speed and allow the camera to set the aperature to get a good exposure). This option is available on the Epson 850Z camera and this seems like a silly ommision to make on a "high-end" camera like the 3000Z.

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1 Answer

What should I do if the picture is blurry or out of focus?


Make sure your subject is within the camera's range. You should be at least 20 inches away to take a picture without the flash, and 20 inches to 8 feet away to take a picture with the flash. You can take a picture as close as 8 inches in macro mode (2.3" zoomed to wide). When you take macro close-ups, make sure you have adequate lighting (with the flash disabled). Using a tripod will help you capture sharp pictures. Make sure you hold the camera steady after you press the shutter button (until the red light starts to flash), and your subject isn't moving. If you are shaking the camera when you lock the focus, a warning icon appears in the right corner of the LCD. If you want to photograph a moving subject, you can change the shutter speed while the camera is connected to your computer. On the PhotoPC 3000z you can also use Program (Sports Mode) or Manual (Shutter Priority) to increase the shutter speed. Make sure your flash is not set to flash off. When you focus on a nearby object, your picture's background may appear blurry. Try changing your focus.

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