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Sanwa 460-ED Multitester

Hi I am trying to test the resistance on my vct solenoid, and needed a ohm tester. I have a Sanwa 460-ED but have no clue how to use it, no instructions. I am trying to find out what exactly it tests, and if it is a dohm or what it is. Can i use it to test the resistance? and if so how do i do that?

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I am not familiar with that particular meter but.... to measure resistance you will need an ohms scale.
the leads should be plugged in to the + and - holes. Normally the red lead always goes in the + lead.

If there is a switch to change scales, do the following. Touch the ends of the test lead together, (after you have connected the leads to the meter. Rotate the switch thru all of its positions. if you see the
meter swing over towards zero, that is the ohms scale position. There should be a knob to zero the meter when the leads are touching.

Come back with any questions and I'll respond Loringh

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I would like to know the electrical resistance of the vct solinoids and the camshaft angle sensors


Do you have a professional scanner, not a code reader? The scanner will give you the vales and if the senders are synchronized. we have found the values of ohms to be ambiguous due to oil infiltration modifying the readings. The vct solenoid is either on or off.
Good luck

Mar 15, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Washer will not fill


Hello there and welcome to fixya
i need to ask a few questions have you made sure that you have good water pressure to the machine first then if so make sure you have inspected the screen going into the machine if this is clean you may have either a faulty inlet valve or a faulty solinod switch
There are two wires connected to each solenoid (aka coil) on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

inletvalve.gif
Use a continuity tester or multitester to test for continuity. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.
If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
Click here to order replacement parts.

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Nov 20, 2012 | Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

1 Answer

What is DTC P1744


p1744 is a torque converter clutch solenoid code if you just had trans rebuilt they installed the wrong drive and/or driven sprocket ratios.To test on your own
will be hard unless you can get a brake out box to check resistance of wires in transaxle.You need to check pins 54 to 71 and 54to 24,51,76,77,91,103 and grd
all should be greater then 10k/ohms if 10 k or less repair short in wire.Ohms
of sol it self should be 13-24 ohms you need a trans tester measure between tcc
sol jack and vpwr jack on tester.

Dec 31, 2011 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Over temperature warning light has come on


When the overtemperature light comes on it is an indication of possible failure.
But before panicing check these items first.
1.Condenser clean
2. Condenser fan operating (if so equipped)
3. Clearence around unit to allow proper air flow
4. Is compressor running ? (if not check relay, overload)

The compressor relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator.
Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).

relaytest1b.jpg With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".

relaytest3b.jpg The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity.
With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".

relaytest2b.jpg The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms.
If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced

Aug 07, 2011 | Swan SR5170 Freezer

1 Answer

My 1997 chevy s10 is messing up I hooked up a obd2/eobd code reader and it gave me back this code......P1380 EBCM DTC detected, dada unusable? I have no clue what that code means but if you can help it...


P1380 - Misfire Detected Rough Road Data Not Available

The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the VCT circuit to the PCM for high and low voltage. If the voltage falls below a calibrated limit a calibrated amount of time during testing, the test fails.

Possible Causes:
  • Open or short in the VCT circuit.
  • Open VPWR circuit.
  • Damaged PCM
  • Open or short in the VCT solenoid valve.

  • Possible Solutions:
    DTC P1380 is a VCT circuit check. Testing should include wires, solenoid coil, and the PCM.

    Jan 17, 2011 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How can I check the compressor relay? Is there a way to check and see if it's working?


    If it rattles when you shake it it's bad.

    There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
    With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).
    With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
    Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".

    The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity.
    With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".
    The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms.
    If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced.

    Mar 03, 2010 | Magic Chef MCWC30MCG Compact Wine Cooler

    1 Answer

    Only has a -1 on the display


    Christoph, Likely you have the meter set to resistance (ohms) and thus, are getting the displayed reading you've described. Also, with the polarity reversed ( positive and negative + / - ) you'll get the negative number displayed in voltage settings.

    First off, check to make sure that the battery inside the back of the test meter is new. If your meter has been around for some time, it is likely that the battery should be replaced. Typically it is either a AA or 9 volt battery in most testers.

    Once you've replaced the battery, try testing the old battery with the meter set to DC-V and the probes (red & black) in the DC-V connections. Set the measurement scale to the lowest on the DC range and then with the red test lead on the battery's positive end and the black test lead on the battery's negative end, you should be able to get a voltage reading of the old battery.

    Now you can check the resistance function (ohms) by setting the meter to the Ohms function at the lowest scale/setting and touch the two leads together. You should get a reading of 0.00 ohms resistance. You might have to zero the setting manually with either a small adjustment wheel on the face of the meter, or with a small set screw on the backside of the meter. (some models have this installed inside the battery compartment also)

    Hopefully that's all the issue you've experienced and your meter is now working properly. I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

    Nov 02, 2009 | Actron CP7672 Digital Multitester

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    Monitor problem.


    um.. im just gona say this it seems obvious but on mine one of the leads connecting the sub to the rest of the cabinet fell off and all i had to do was reconnect it and it was fine.

    Aug 11, 2009 | Yamaha NS-A636 Speaker

    1 Answer

    Dometic w/hp installed,has 115ac @12dc thermostatworks sends signal but won't fire


    hi! there, as you mention since source was 115 voltwas initialized and thermostat detected was functioning but heater won't fire, check if there's incoming source on your heating element using multitester on voltmeter set up,if there's source 115 volt,check your heating element resistance be sure to switch off your ac before checking resistance of your heater (your tester may damage upon testing resistance when ac source was on takenote),set your tester to ohmmeter R10 test rod at both end on terminal take reading if no deflection,you have busted heating element,replaced heating element,If there's relay holding supply on heating element on circcuit board try to check it out.if source 115 volt is acquired,also check the resistance coil of relay,iif defective replaced one...have a nice they.

    Mar 29, 2009 | Dometic Heating & Cooling

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