We have a Danby fridge Model D730W/TG,Type HDS 201, Volts 120, Hz 60, Amps 1.4 , Design 235psi high/140psi low. We don't know how old it is, but we would like to know what the energy comsumption per year would be. We have searched online and were not able to find it. Thank you
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is it an inverter fridge which saves on energy. that makes a high pitch sound. i recently fell into the same trap. if it has a clock set the time so its more inclined to make those noises when you are asleep.
You need the total amperes of the refrigerator and multiply by the refrigerator volts to get voltamps, then choose a transformer that is rated at least 120% of the voltamps of the refrigerator. e.g. refrigerator runs at 120 volts and 7.5 amperes, 120 x 7.5 is 900, then 120% of 900 is 1080. A transformer of at least 1080 VA (volt amps) that is 220-240 volts primary and 120 volts secondary. 1080 volt amps is same as 1.08kva (kilo volt amps).
Thanks for the opportunity to answer your question. There are many factors that will come into play in determining the actual energy consumption of your fridge. These items include and are not limited to, How often it's opened (freezer especially), Where it sits in the house, does the sun shine on it? Does it have proper space for ventilation behind it and around it. How full the fridge is and what you place in it. The average consumption in Wattage on this fridge is 1200watts while running. So to figure your yearly cost you will need to know how many times the fridge runs per day and how long it's running. You can then average that time over a month. Usually you are only going to spend about 60-120 dollars per year to run the fridge if it's inside and used or opened about 10 times a day. A good idea is to use empty plastic containers in your fridge where you have large empty spaces. This will reduce the amount of space in the fridge that it has to cool and will improve the cooling. Should you have any further question please feel free to contact me.
Good day, That sounds about right, however if your generator is rated in wattage the amps times volts won't work. On an induction unit, such as a refrigerator, the wattage is volts times power factor times amps. Nominal wattage should be around 375 watts. However, during auto defrost the heater will probably be around 450 watts. As well, locked rotor amps on starting will be about 4 times running amps approx. 18 to 20 amps. so your generator will have to be able to handle that. The short and long of it is give yourself wiggle room.
i think that your power is 50 cycle as in the us it's 60 cycle . the current is 120 in us and i belive your's will be 220 . so the amps will be 1/2 of the value on 220 than 110 volts so 15 amps at 110 would be 1/2 that at 220 . ..this is ver general but close for what your doing . . it is easy to use a clamp on amp meter and read the currant draw and amps . and this wil change with brand / and size of compressors. and in some cases heater's and fans and defros systems the units use . good luck and i hope some of this info helps .. mm
Ok, next question, when he replaced the compressors, did he modify the evap sections with TX Valves and remove the cap tubes? Per Traulsen specs, all remote units are factory set with TX valves while local units are equipped with cap tubes. If this modification was not done, it may be your cause of excessive electical consumption. Then again, re-reading your recent post, the compressors were changed to 3/4 hp? From Traulsen specs your unit came with a 1/6 fridge compressor and a 1/3 freezer compressor, is that correct? Electrical consumption on these are URS48DT 11.2 Amps 1/6 HP & 1/3 HP (1288 watts) at full load, while a 3/4 compressor is 14.9 amps 3/4 HP (1713.5 Watts) at full load X2 = 3527 Watts, or about 3 times original. I may be off target, but from what I can assume, I am beginning to think your compressors are over sized, drastrically and that the evap units may not have been modified to TX Valve. Let me know if this helps or if there is any additional information you can provide. Current compressor model numbers, previous compressor model numbers, complete unit model/serial number would all be a help in determining your exact specifications.