Question about Maytag Refrigerators
First check your evapator fan... if the fan is running then you hold in the light switch..
then you have a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary defrost the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work for 2 to 3 weeks.
To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain. The defrost systems is:
Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
With almost all refrigerators, all the cooling takes place in the freezer and a fan then blows some of the cooled air into the refrigerator section to cool it. Look for a non functioning fan in the freezer, frost or ice build up in air ducts leading from freezer into refrig section, and make sure controls are not set to the coldest freezer setting. (that keeps most of the cold air in the freezer)
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
In the Freezer or Fridge compartment, there is the Evaporator Fan (& Motor) If the freezer is cold, the Evaporator fan motor most likely went bad. Check to see that when the compressor is running, so should be the fan motor. If not, you have to remove it & replace it. It is not an expensive repair unless you call for service on it. Make sure that you unplug the fridge when you replace the fan motor.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
SOURCE: Fridge not cooling
We will need to see if yours has the defrost timer or the adaptive defrost. Let me know if your model is the JSD2789GES. I have the manual we can work with. ..Sea Breeze
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
SOURCE: the fridge doesn't cool anything
There is a damper that allows air into the frig side to cool it. There should be a tech sheet in the toe grill with a diagnostic to check the damper operation.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
I have a similar problem, although I have no cooling in the fridge section. Had a repair man indicate that the electrical panal(pcb board) needs to be replaced. It is on order ($200). Sure hope that is the issue. To me, it appeared that the freezer fan(which cools the fridge) was not working. Whether that is the result of a faulty electrical panal is yet to be determined. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
Tip: Most self-defrosting household refrigerators that loose part or all of their cooling in the freezer or fridge are having problems with the self-defrost system. Three components to check: defrost timer; defrost heater elements (esp. on side x side units); and evaporator fan. All cold air is normally produced in the freezer, then circulated via evaporator fan to the refrigerator section. About every 12 hrs. a defrost timer turns off the compressor, and turns on the defrost elements to melt the frost from the evaporator coils. This normally takes about 20 minutes to complete, then the timer turns off the heaters, and restores normal cooling operations. If the cycle does not complete properly, the coils will "ice up", restricting proper air circulation through the freezer and refrigerator sections. Worse yet is if timer sticks in defrost mode (rare), it will turn the freezer into an oven. If the defrost system seems to be working normally, then you should check the condensing coils for excess dirt, and vacuum &/or bush the dirt and lint out to restore proper head disipation. It's recommended that you vacuum out a condensor that's located on the bottom of the unit once a year. You should also check the condensor fan (if present) for proper operation. If the condensor fan fails, heat can not be properly released from the condensor, and will cause the refrigerator to 'run all the time' yet not cool efficiently. There are many things to check on modern frost-free refrigerators, before turning to the actual sealed refrigeration system and compressor unit.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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