My Kodak 4800 is not taking consistently properly exposed photos. Probably 70% of the shots taken indoors are too dark. I've cranked the exposure adjustment as high as it will go (+2) and still get dark shots, often even with the flash.
This is my 2nd 4800 camera and I never had this problem with the original one. I am making sure my lithium battery is fully charged....is there an adjustment somewhere else I can make? All suggestions will be much appreciated. Sample photo attached.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
Re: Dark Images Indoor
This may sound dumb but is the flash going off?
The second thought is how far are your subjects from the on camera flash. As you're probably aware, the flash is challenged as the distance doubles; half the light at twice the distance from any point.
An equivalent example; f/4.0 @ 1/125th of a second worth of light at ten feet but you'd have only half the light available at twenty feet. So you'd have to change either your f/stop or shutter speed by one stop to either f/2.8 or 1/60th of a second. This is why the distance is so important.
I don't see a hot spot on your subject matter so I'm guessing the flash isn't going off. Could be wrong as you're there so you'd know.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
See your manual, page 54 and 55, 64, and also page 70 here. Would suggest trying indoor and portrait mode first (page 54 and 55), with the flash set to ON always (page 64). If your not satisfied with the results, try Program auto-exposure mode, and adjusting exposure compensation (page 70).
this can be usually associated with your white balance in still camera mode.
Check to see your white balance is set correctly or just set it to auto. Also make sure the mode you are in it set. (ie. indoor, outdoor, auto, speed)
When you look at your pictures are they dark, murky and hard to see? If you took pictures at a wedding, dance recital, theater performance or any indoor event and they came out dark, read on to learn why your pictures are dark, and how to fix this common camera problem.
Many people take pictures of indoor events, only to be unsatisfied with the final outcome of their photos. Although you may have bought the top of the line film or digital camera, there are a few limitations that you need to know about.
To correctly expose your pictures, you camera needs a lot of light. The compact point and shoot varieties adjust for this when you're outside during the daytime, and usually your pictures turn out fine, right? Well, then how come when you take indoor pictures, they sometimes come out too dark? There are two culprits; your zoom function and your flash.
Most compact cameras today offer a zoom function. When I used to work in retail photography sales, the first feature that consumers would ask for is zoom. People love to get close-up pictures without using their feet. Although zoom does bring your subject matter in closer, it also decreases the amount of light that can get into your camera. Essentially, the more you zoom, the less light your camera can receive, and your pictures will be darker.
So, if your taking pictures indoors, in a dark church, gym or other window-less room it is very difficult for your camera to get enough light to properly expose your pictures.
This is when most photographers decide to turn on their flash. The flash on your camera is a great tool to illuminate dark situations that are in close proximity to the camera. Most built-in flash units are designed to allow the light to travel 8-10 feet away in poor quality light and up to 15-20 feet in brighter situations.
What most camera users fail to realize is that although your zoom function is visually bringing you closer to the action, you flash cannot reach that far to illuminate the subject, and your pictures will be dark.
Hope it helps, if so do rate the solution
Make sure your battery is fully charged. If the battery is not fully charged your flash may not fire at the brightness you need to take a well exposed photo. Also, check your ISO settings. Try taking photos at a higher ISO when the subject is in a dark area. Experiment with the ISO. Good Luck!
my friend ur CCD is getting weak this is the first sign of the problem when u get lines hor and vertcal and sun light pics are blurred and over exposed after that this problem extends to the indoor shots as well pls confirm it thru service centre for 100% ,
pls do rate me i know it is a difficult moment but i helped u in diagnosing ur problem without wasting time
Your Polaroid Fun! Digital 320 camera does not have a flash. If pictures are coming out dark, it's because there wasn't enough light in the surroundings when the picture was taken.
Remember, it's important to take photos in brightly lit surroundings.
When taking pictures indoors, make sure that the room has bright lighting. For best results, take pictures during daylight hours with a combination of indoor and outdoor light, preferably near a window.