At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you make the jump with a wire at the switch and the brake lights work your new and old switch are not adjusted right on the brake peddle arm. make sure when you move the brake peddle that the switch is moving right to make/break the switch.
A bad fuse could be the problem. If all the fuses are ok, then next i would check the brake light sensor located on the brake pedal assembly. It is a small plastic box that has wire contacts inside. When you push the brake pedal down, the wires connect making the brakes light up. These are easy to replace and not expensive. I hope this helps!
You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.
You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?
your brake lights are on a live switch , they will go on when the key is off. so if they are on, your battery will eventually go dead.
now on the pedal there is a switch so when you push the brake the light is activated and so is the actual brake. Check and make sure it is still near the pedal top and can be activated with the pedal down .some are reverse switched down is not making contact and so is tripped and others is brake pedal arm is down toching the button depressing it and making contact. contact your local parts store see what parts they have for your make and model. DONT BUY anything. just see how you switch is suppose to work then you'll know how to test it. if your not sure even call them or any parts store and ask how to test them . they love to share information. which makes them even more valued. Your Cruise wont work because of your brake switch deal. it thinks that you on the brake. Good thing too. Going down the highway cruise on....tap brakes and cruise keeps right on going. that would be very bad. Nothing to do with the battery. just that its a casuality of the brake issue.
Actually, the switch you are referring to will cut the brake lights off when depressed, it is when extended that it will make contact, and light up the brakes. However, if it does nothing at all no matter what it's position, check the wires leading to the switch, and check the switch itself. If it lights up the brakes when you pull the switch off the rail, then you just need to readjust it, so that when you push the pedal, the stem is high enough to ride down with the pedal bar.
If the switch won't pass any current, simply replace your switch, and make sure that when you put the new one in, to adjust it's height above the pedal rail.
Hi,
Worked with these machines for years - I would say my wiring in the pedal was our biggest problem. Some mis-wire or outsource problem for their company is what I think.
I would just contact them and ask for a replacement - they like to know if several folks are seeing a matching problem - I only had to pay shipping each time I needed a new pedal.
×