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Clutch am assembling the clutch for a 1997 dyna low rider and don't see what hold the last plate on

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  • lonhansen Apr 05, 2009

    What is the proper clutch adjustment for a 1993 fxdl ?

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There is a retaining clip that holds the plates in the basket. The assembly will need to be depressed in order to get the retainer in place. You can get a diagram, or at least view the diagram for the assembly at the parts counter of your local HD dealer. The local dealer here has stopped printing out the diagrams for me, but will still let me view them. Generally that's all you need anyway, just to get the idea.

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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My kx 60 is stuck in gear it will not selcet any


First thing is to take of the cover and inspect the clutch basket. Excessive wear on the Basket or clutch plates could mean its time to replace the clutch.

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Well, you can be 100% sure that this is the wrong clutch. Set the two side by side and you should be able to notice the difference. Take your old assembly with you, and have them match it up. 95-96 were somewhat transition years, especially the 95. However, depending on the model, the 94-99 clutch assembly should work. If you want to get back to me with the your model, and the exact parts you need, I'll see if I can get the exact part numbers for you.

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82 flh clutch adjustments


Doesn't matter. Sounds like you have it in properly, and the high end play you're getting can be adjusted out. Adjust it to where the you don't have the high end play, and also be sure that there is no low end drag. High end being 70-80 mph and low end being idle, I say this because I've had to deal with some weekend warriors lately that would like to work on their own bikes, but don't know their wank from a torque wrench. If you've installed your own clutch, I know I'm not dealing with one. Now, keep in mind that if you can't get the adjustment from the current set up, then you may need to add a friction, steel, or spacer, in order to get it working properly. I suggest adding a friction, however, you will have to keep within tolerance, so in some cases, a friction or steel won't work, and you have to go with a spacer. Also check the ramp and bearings, if you haven't already. A bent or worn ramp, or bad ramp bearing can cause a float at higher speeds. Let me know what you found.

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The tranny on these are bullet proof. So, this is most likely going to be the clutch. I say most likely, because I thought my clutch had gone out here recently on my Softtail, but when I got the clutch assembly off, it turned out to be the front drive belt pulley. They're aluminum, and spun the splines out., so keep this in mind if the clutch is good. Since this is an 883 that makes it easier to inspect the clutch. You'll need to pull the primary cover, check the clutch cable mechanism inside the cover, and check the friction plates on the clutch. You should be able to see if the frictions have any pad left, and the cable mechanism will be easy to tell if there's anything wrong with it. Use new primary fluid, and get a new primary gasket, do not reuse the old, especially the gasket. Although it may look good, even the smallest separation in the gasket will cause a leak. Good luck, and let me know how it turns out.

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It would be extremely helpful if I had the year and model, the clutches differ through the years and models, but I'll give it a go. There are going to be a couple of thing that can cause this. You will need to yank the primary to get to the clutch.
1- the ramp that works the push-rod clutch release is bad or the push-rod has punched through it. On the Sportsters this is a different type of mechanism and is located all on the primary side with the clutch. It will be easy to see if there is a problem with it. On the big twins the ramp is located on the tranny side, so you will have to remove the tranny cover to inspect the ramp and bearings. You can remove the push-rod through the center of the clutch hub, by removing the c-clip that hold the center adjustment for the clutch release. Inspect the push-rod for discoloration due to overheating on the ramp end or bad wear on either end due to being overtightened.
2- the clutch is gone, frictions are the main thing that go, but don't rule out having to replace the steels until you get it apart.To remove the clutch assembly, you will need to remove the primary chain. To do this you will need to slide the crank hub and the clutch assembly off at the same time, the chain will not allow you to slide one off with out the other, if it does then your primary chain has stretched and needs replaced. *IMPORTANT NOTE* The nut holding the clutch assembly is reverse thread, so do remember this when removing, otherwise you can damage or break the tranny shaft. Once you get the clutch assembly off, there is a special depression tool for getting the clutch plates out of the clutch hub. The hub is aluminum, so if you don't use the tool you can break an ear off and will have to get a new hub.

I know this sounds difficult, and it will be if it's you're first time, but don't let it scare you off of doing it yourself. I'm a firm believer in working on your own bike, I also believe HD is over priced (used to work for a dealership), along with most other shops. Working on your own bike is a tradition that most riders today have gotten away from. If you haven't worked on your own bikes before, start, you'll find that it gets easier with time, it's not that hard, and you'll enjoy having that sense of accomplishment. If you need anything else feel free to ask, and let me know what you find.

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