I can speak from the flooring and finish work realm of fasteners and I must say once you go pneumatic, you will NEVER regret the transition. Not only is it more efficient, it is also very helpful on the intricate detail side of things. It eliminates the need for a third hand when dealing with tight spots as well. The only drawback to air is that winter conditions tend to take their toll on airlines and fasteners attached to them by causing them to run sluggish. Keep the air warm if you can and it helps.
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Re: Nail Gun question
For every nail that a normal human with a hammer could hand drive on his best day, a pneumatic nailer would drive and set twelve! That is no exaggeration. Although there is no need to go this fast, a reasonable speed would allow you to be 400 to 800 percent more productive. Nailing large subfloors and roof decks is a breeze. Hours worth of work becomes minutes.
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One question is do you regularly put oil in the gun? Also you need to make sure that the screw holding the 'clip' near the barrel is tight and not loose. These are the 2 main problems when a gun is misfiring.
If a nail is stuck between the driver and nose of the gun, you will need to forcefully push the driver back into the gun. Remove the head and cylinder and place the body of the gun on piece of plywood with nose pointing up. Using very sturdy steel rod, hammer the driver down. The steel rod needs to be slightly thinner than the driver to allow for the stuck nail. I use a broken driver ground thinner on the side that will need to bypass the stuck nail. Careful when striking hard steel with hammer, could spinter (I use a heavy brass hammer). Good luck
Your gun uses 30 -34 degree
clip head paper tape. Order a sample of the nail below. It may work on your gun. These are offset full round head with paper tape. Safe way to test if nails will work is to remove the head of the gun and insert nails into rails. Push down on the driver with wood handle of hammer to eject nail. This will test for jamming or two nails trying to eject and cause jam. Look down barrel to see if the head is alighed correctly or too far from centerline of driver.
Nail guns will jam when driving nails thru very hard wood, solid objects, allowing the gun to double fire hitting the first nail or using the wrong nails(amoung some of the reasons, you get the idea that jamming is common) . There is no special tool to help in case of jam. You must be creative. I use an old driver shaft from nailer that easily fits into the nose of the gun (you can grind a piece of allen wrench to fit into nose and allow space for the stuck nail). The metel that you use must be very hard and strike with heavy copper or brass hammer (caution, steel hammer may splinter metal, use protective gear ). You will need to strike very hard to remove some stuck nails. If first or second strike results in no movement of driver, remove the head and cylinder of the nailer and place the body of the gun squarely on piece of plywood over concete floor (this will protect the head of the nailer from being damaged). Worst case, you will need to remove the rails. Good luck.
If the nails are stuck in the rails, remove the rails and fish them out. If a nail is stuck between the driver and nose of the gun, you will need to forcefully push the driver back into the gun. Remove the head and cylinder and place the body of the gun on piece of plywood with nose pointing up. Using very sturdy steel rod, hammer the driver down. The steel rod needs to be slightly thinner than the driver to allow for the stuck nail. I use a broken driver ground thinner on the side that will need to bypass the stuck nail. Careful when striking hard steel with hammer, could spinter (I use a heavy brass hammer). Good luck
I hope this doesn't offend you. What I'm suggesting is that you may not be using your nail gun correctly. Some people keep the trigger pulled and bounce the gun onto the wood. This technique works okay, but placement accuracy of the nail suffers. The other technique is to place the gun on the wood and pull the trigger USING TWO HANDS! This is the technique suggested by the manufacturer. The problem with this technique is that if you apply insufficient pressure to the gun (USING ONE HAND) the safety is not engage so you don't shoot a nail. What usually happens - I just witnessed this a couple of weeks ago - is that not enough pressure is applied while pulling the trigger so you push harder and end up bumping the gun which shoots a nail - because you have the trigger pulled, but the nail shot was a surprise so it causes another bump (and is more apt to bounce because you're using just one hand). Because it is a machine and can operate faster than your reflexes - it shoots another nail. This happens before you can lift it off of the wood, or remove your finger from the trigger. That's the reason I keep the trigger pulled and bounce it. I know that after the bounce I've set a nail, and can remove my finger from the trigger. When I need to accurately set a nail I always use two hands, press hard and pull the trigger, and release quickly. Only pull the trigger when you know you're about to set a nail, and are poised above the workpiece.
The easiest and most effective way is to use a hammer and a long flathead screwdriver that you don't mind messing up. Place the nail gun upside down on a flat surface with the nose pointing up. If you have a vise it is advisable to put it in the vise.(Use a piece of rubber or a rag to secure) Use a flashlight to locate the driver inside the nose of the gun. Place the flathead screwdriver at an angle across the driver and use a heavy hammer. Give it a good whack. Do not hit in repeated motions. Hit one good whack and see if the driver moved then set up for another and give it a good whack. You should be able to dislodge the nail head in this way. Caution, be aware of where your hands are at all times. It is not uncommon to hit your hand or cut your hand on the nail gun when trying to do this.
The F28WW takes 28Deg nails that are collated with wire, so your nails won't work in that gun. The N80SB is also a 28Deg nailer so your 30 Deg nails won't work in that gun either.
Sorry about the bad news but it looks like your going to have to spring for new nails
There are several allen-key style screws just above the shaft/magazine on this nail gun. Remove those and you should be able to lift the top cover plate and access the shaft and remove the jammed nail. Then replace all back in reverse order (pretty easy to do). Of course, ensure no air supply is connected to the nail gun when you do this.
Yes, because there is less risk of splitting the wood grain when using a nail gun than when using a hammer, nail guns are especially useful in delicate projects such as the application of indoor trimming. A nail gun sets the nail in one motion, reducing the chance of slips and bumps that can ruin delicate woods. Most models also include a rubber safety nose to protect the wood from friction.