I have the ML300RTW can I use 16 guage wire with this unit ? I will be having [4] four lights . Thank You

I'm not sure which one you are talking about, if I remember correctly there are 2 on the firewall. One is a 16 guage wire which protects all red 12 guage wiring. The other is a 20 guage wire that protects the generator warning light and the field circuitry on the alternator. It will be protecting a 16 guage wire.

Put new wireing in going to both back speakers, Factory wireing is verry thin end it breaks with age. Change it over to at least 16 guage speaker wire or 12 guage, Your system will sound a lot better.

Open following link for troubleshoot steps that give full rundown for setting timer plus replacement trippers, wiring, warranty, and tips for protecting power pack:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

ML300RTW instruction manual:
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/professional%20lighting/ml300rtw.ashx

http://www.intermatic.com/products/professional%20lighting/low%20voltage%20landscape%20products/power%20packs.aspx

could be the guage itself, the sending unit for those guages or the wiring in between. find the sending unit, should be two wires the sending unit actually changes the amount of voltage going to the guage. cross the two wires over at the sending unit, the guage should read all the way in one direction, do this for both guages. if the guage moves to an extreme position when the wires are crossed the guage and wiring are fine and the sending unit is the culprit. if you cant get the guages to move by crosing the wires, suspect the guage itself. find you a freindly garage to help w your repair. hope this is useful

Usually 50 - 75 ft. is as far as you want to go, especially with 16 gauge wire. What happens is the lights get dimmer as the length of the run increases. If you don't mind the lights getting noticeably dimmer, go ahead and add the other 4 lights. Using a heavier (12 gauge) wire will help a lot. You'll want the 12 ga. to start at the transformer, preferably running the whole length. Also, using a smaller watt bulb will help.

If you have a 120 volt outlet near the approximate middle of the new (total 150 ft.) run, you could relocate the transformer to that location and have two 75 ft. runs in 2 directions.

Find the fuel tank and it will be a round piece with two wires connected and about 8-15 small screws or bolts in a circle. Remove the fasteners and lift up. There is your sender!

bulbs or wiring

They ain't power leads. They carry heat element current from the cent sw when the motor is running.


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Some of the gauges are on the same fuse as the dome light; check the fuses. The other main source of gauge problems for this vintage F150 is the sending units and I don't use the term sending unit lightly, so when you go to the parts store make sure you say you are looking for sending units not sensors (sensors hook to the computer) sending units are of 2 types for this vintage F150, lights and guages you need the ones for gauges, the oil sending unit is about 4 dollars and the coolant temp sending unit for a guage is about the same.

I have 4 fords and you will come to understand that the wiring is a jury rig, all this come out when they are the age of your 1989 PU.

You should go with a 4 guage power wire kit. If your amp is going in and out
at high volume than that is your problem. 8 guage will work but, if you want
the proper current which is your power from your battery, going to your amp
than I would recomend the 4 guage amp install kit or just the main power
wire coming from your battery. If you would like contact me and I will send you
to a very good sight with all the info you will ever need for car amplifire installation.

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