My Whirlpool dryer recently stopped working all together mid cycle. The control panel was very warm to the touch and there was no light or response to any button press.
When I took off the back panel by the wire I saw this:
The black (before burning) wire has totally fried. ...It seems like i could just strip the wire back and re-connect the wire, but I dont want to risk a house fire if this happened again. Any thought to what could have caused this?
The outlet looks like just a standard 220v outlet and doesn't show any signs of being burned or shorted.
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It could be the lint screen needs cleaning, and not just removal of lint, but washing with warm water and a soft brush to remove fabric softener / static cling sheets that can build up and without being obvious, clog the screen. If there is not adequate air flow and the dryer is over heating it may shut itself off as a safety precaution.
Also, i'm not sure about this model, but many dryers have moisture sensors. These can become ineffective do to fabric softener sheets build up that coats the sensors. Check the owners manual and locate the sensor. It is just two metal contacts inside the dryer. Clean them with warm water and a nylon scrub pad, like you would use to wash dishes, but not steel wool or anything too abrasive.
If your Whirlpool dryer has mysteriously stopped producing heat, a blown
thermal fuse may be the cause of your problem. In Whirlpool dryers,
thermal fuses are safety switches that are designed to disrupt the flow
of electricity to your dryer's heating mechanisms once the dryer reaches
a predetermined maximum temperature, usually somewhere around 180
degrees F. Thankfully, troubleshooting the thermal fuse in a Whirlpool
dryer is easier than it sounds.
Clean out the lint screen in
your Whirlpool clothes dryer. Lint buildup can cause your dryer to
overheat, triggering the thermal fuse to disrupt power to your dryer's
heating mechanisms. Take the lint screen out of your Whirlpool dryer and
wash it in warm water. Dry the screen thoroughly before replacing it.
Look behind the dryer to check
its flexible exhaust hose for kinks or obstructions. Disconnect the
exhaust hose from the back of your dryer and clean out any lint that has
Go outside and check your
Whirlpool dryer's exhaust vent for obstructions. Lint buildup, bird
nests or other obstructions in the outside exhaust vent can trigger your
dryer's thermal fuse.
Disconnect your dryer from its power source before attempting to access its thermal fuse.
Access the thermal fuse in your
Whirlpool dryer by removing the back panel. Remove the screws that hold
the back panel in place and it should easily come free.
Look between the dryer's blower
housing and exhaust to locate its thermal fuse. The thermal fuse in a
Whirlpool dryer looks like a white plastic strip that has two wires
connected to it.
Bypass the thermal fuse in your
Whirlpool dryer while you perform a quick diagnostic test. Use
electrical tape to tape together the two wires connected to the thermal
fuse. Reassemble your dryer and plug it back in. Set the dryer to a
timed heated drying cycle and press "Start." If the dryer produces heat
with its thermal fuse bypassed, it means the thermal fuse needs to be
Replace a blown thermal fuse in
your Whirlpool dryer. Disconnect the power and remove the back panel.
Remove the electrical tape that you used to perform the diagnostic test
and disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse. Remove the screws that
secure the thermal fuse to the dryer and discard the blown fuse. Attach
the replacement thermal fuse by replacing and tightening the screws.
Attach the wires to the new thermal fuse.
If the tumbler won't spin when it operates,
unplug it and try to move the tumbler by hand. If it won't budge, then
something is jammed. If it turns with no resistance at all, you may
have a problem with your drive belt. If it turns with consistent, minor
resistance then the problem may be electrical. Follow the instructions
of your user's manual to remove the tumbler so the belt drive and motor
are visible. Inspect the drive belt. If it hangs loose, it needs to be
tightened. If it is frayed or has worked its way up the drive shaft, it
should be replaced. Try to turn the driveshaft leading from the motor
by hand. If it won't budge, then your motor is seized and needs to be
replaced. If nothing is wrong with the belt or the motor, then the
problem is in the control circuit. It may be damaged, preventing the
motor from engaging.
If the dryer stops working mid-cycle and will not respond to any of the
control functions, unplug it, empty it of clothing and pull it away
from the wall. Remove the service panel on the back and open it. Be
mindful of smoke and the smell of burnt plastic; these are good
indications that something carrying electricity has just died. This
particular model of dryer is notorious for its electrical plug and
power block, which should be the black box near the bottom in the back.
If there are any signs of charring, melting, or discoloration, the
power cord and block are your culprits. These can be replaced with a
new power cord and terminal-connection wire kit obtained at any
hardware store. If there is no indication of electrical damage, the
problem is likely the control circuit set underneath the control board
on the face of the dryer. Such boards can't be fixed, only replaced--a
task best left to a certified repairman.
II Dryers are fitted with a mechanical timer that sends an impulse to
the control circuit board to stop running once the set amount of drying
time has elapsed. This is because, should an electronic timer fail,
this would necessitate the replacement of the entire circuit board.
Confirm that the mechanical timer is indeed broken by opening the
dryer's door. If the dryer stops, the circuit board is working fine and
is not the problem. Simply slide off the protective faceplate of the
dryer, unscrew the control board beneath, and flip it over. Connected
to the back of the timer's knob should be a small round device with two
wires running to the circuit board within the body of the dryer.
Unscrew this device from the back of the knob and disconnect the wires.
A replacement timer costs a few dollars and should screw into place
without trouble. Reconnect the wires and put the dryer back together.
It should work fine now.
please comment on these solution staying on how it help.
more than likely a thermal fuse has blown ..i believe on that model you pop the clips holding top down element is on rear wall of dryer thermal fuse has 2 white wires going to it and is mounted on side of element the big thermostat on top and the fuse come in a kit and should be changed together