I have oil on tip of plug wire on only 1 of my spark plugs,all others have a little oil on spark plug itself.I just had the timing belt done ,water pump all sealas and head gasket,new wires do i need to be conserned

so any testing done with the fuel system throttle body --fuel delivery -pressure--etc---trans check ---any pending or active codes

Oil is leaking into your spark plug holes from the valve chamber. It's not a good idea to leave the oil in the spark plug holes, as it can pool high enough to damage the rubber boots of your spark plug wires, will make the plug hole really messy, and it may eventually become a fire hazard. Below is how to fix it.

Honda's preferred spark plug location means that the plugs (and their wires) must pass through deep recesses in the top of the valve covers to get to the combustion chamber. This gives better plug placement in the combustion chamber, and more zoom for your Honda. It creates a small problem though: Under the valve cover, all around the spark plug recesses, is an open space that is constantly being showered with oil, and that oil will get into the spark plug recesses unless something is done to keep it out. Honda does this by sealing any joins between parts with little rubber donuts (AKA "grommets").

The rubber donuts eventually get old and stop sealing, letting oil seep into the spark plug holes and puddle there. The cure is replacement of all four (or six), along with the valve cover gasket itself (themselves) at the same time. It's an easy project for anyone who's done more than just oil changes.

However, there's a fly in the ointment here: Certain Honda engines, specifically the 4-valve-per-cylinder, single-overhead-cam ones (such as the D15B that's used in many Civics), have an additional rubber seal under the one I just mentioned! This one also gets old and starts leaking, but these are a LOT harder to replace! Not a job for a beginner!

NOTE: The rubber parts under discussion here are not actually red and orange, they're black, I just used colors to make it clearer which was what.

Does it stop itself or that were you who turned engine off?

old post, but.... others will like it in same jam....
you didnt try a new spark plug? after all spark plugs LOVE TO SHORT under pressure, !!!!!! has spark means ZERO to me.
only TECHNIQUE has meaning, HOW? Done? (3 ways )?

does your engine (displacement not stated) have a timing belt.
did you replace it on time, if not FAIL! ( off topic, but very real)

yes, YOU DO that, but , fate does rule the universe. (no guessing)
the tests are easy, why fret? gee the compression test is 5min work. ?
spark good,
injector balance test shows, injector injects same as other 3 (long tests times say 1hr done right) can advice every step. on all.

i POINT my IR gun to cyl. X, (dead) and see pyro reading of cold
oops CYL X is in fact near cold. or fully. cold.

i remove all spark plugs (read the paper in the box , with compression gauge $20) WOT testing only.
i insert the fitting in to cylinder X
i crank until the the needle goes steady.
150psi, 90 is bad timing belt , near zero is bad compression
150 or more is normal, all modern cars.
why wait?
then if it is a flat cylinder, we don't ask why, we find out why.

but in fact you can hear, what is leaking,
valves or whatever. in fact I DO ! (junk car, or fix it logic)
I have a $40 leak down tester, tool
with side tool i can hear the leak path (shop air, got shop air?)
i can hear the leak in 3 places,
head gaskets blow in up to 4 directions, far be it for me to guess.
L/Right/F/Rear
or the block or head is cracked, running pure water in the coolant
is guaranteed, are you?
water in the oil? green death to engine oil looks like chocolate milk shake.
oil in the water (signs)
see hissss tests here.

see"You find gross leakage? discovered in test 13"

http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html


do the compression test WOT, or all data is useless.
WIDe OPEN THROTTLE WITH SPARK DEFEATED .

im sure you have a new head now, right?

Take a compression test on # 4. It may be a little oil burning w coolant getting by the head gasket. POSSIBLE faulty injector or not firing on time. Ck for any oil in the anti freeze or anti freeze in the oil.

REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. NEED CHANGE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER.YOU NEED CHANGE TIMING BELT HAS TO BE CHANGED EVERY 60000 MILES TIMING BELT CHANGING TIME OVER DUE.REPLACE WATER PUMP WHEN YOU REPLACE TIMING BELT BECAUSE TIMING COVER HAS TO BE REMOVED WHEN YOU REPLACE WATER PUMP ALSO GET BOTH DONE SAVE TIME AND MONEY.CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER.REPLACE FUEL FILTER AND AIR FILTER.FLUSH COOLANT SYSTEM REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP HAVE GARAGE FLUSH OUT BRAKE SYSTEM ADD NEW BRAKE FLUID.INSPECT BRAKES HOSES CHECK FRONT BRAKES PADS AND CHECK INSIDE CALIPER FOR LEAKING SEALS CHECK REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOES CHECK FOR LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER SEALS.CHECK BALL JOINTS AND STEERING LINKAGE SEALS.CHECK DRIVE BELT OR BELTS.CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID LOOK OLD DIRTY HAVE GARAGE CHANGE POWER STEERING FLUID.ALL THOSE THINGS HAS TO BE CHECK AND DONE IF LAST OWNER NEGLECT DID NOT TAKE CARE OF VECHICLE.ITS GOING TO BE A EXPENSIVE COST. JUST DO A LITTLE AT A TIME.THE TIMING BELT WOULD BE MY WORRY IF IT BREAKS ENGINE IS DONE.I WOULD REPLACE WATER PUMP AND TIMING BELT FIRST WOULD DRIVE MUCH UNTIL THATS FIX.

90000 km service includes changing.spark plugs,oil and oil filter,gearbox fluid,brake fluid ,air filter and fuel filter if needed,a full safty inspection.and the most important timing belt,and while your doing the timing belt you should do the water pump.

look for weak valve springs.

you have a timing belt.i would replace.plug wires air filter plugs fuel filter distributor cap and coils.replace pvc valve replace all vacuum lines or hoses.replace timing belt.

To do a complete tune up you will need to replace all the spark plugs (gaped to 1.1mm), all the spark plug wires, the air filter, the fuel filter, and if your truck has one, the pcv valve. If you have never replaced the drive belt I would do that. Replacing the belt wont help with the performance but it will save you a lot of trouble later down the road.

The spark plugs you should use are NGK plugs. Those are designed for Japanese cars and trucks. Don't get the cheapest spark plug wires either. Mid grade wires will work fine but not from Auto Zone. All the other parts I listed are not as specific. You can pick and choose which parts you would like get and how much money you want to spend.

I hope this has been helpful. Please leave some good feedback. Thanks!