Incredible ! Thank you for the answer on the 240-110 volt question.
I always thought the consumption was less with a 220 volt because the AMO required would be half that of 110. Thank you very much for this.
Why then do they make the same Gas/ Electric stove with a 220 option. Is it just to simplify the plugging if one has a 220 plug?
Also, I imagine that means that the Oven element would be standard ?
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the reason its not heating is because you will always have 120 volts on this red wire due to its being connected directly to one side of the in coming power source,its either that you lost the other 120 volts of power coming into the unit,a tripped breaker/fuse/etc. or the control board relay that supplies the other 120 volts to the element for a combined 240 volts needed to heat the element,if you have 240 volts to the connection to the unit then you either a bad control board or the Neutral incoming power wire could be burned off which you need to get 120 volts to operate the control board which operate the relay to supply the element with the required 240 volts to operate
I can't find an online manual for the model of the appliance you are talking about, so I'm unable to figure out the wattage it draws. Nor do I know where you are in the world and the voltage you are running at, so I can't tell you straight off. But I can tell you how to figure it out very easily:
I imagine that know what your main power supply voltage is (either 240 volt or 110 volt). You can look at the appliance and there will be a data sticker with the wattage rating on it somewhere (or it will be in the install/Owner manual).
Now you have these 2 bits of information we can do a simple sum:
Watts divided by Volts = Amps
Therefore example calculations look like this: If you have a 500 watt appliance on a 240 volt system 500/240 = 2.083 so use a 3 amp fuse An appliance with a 750 watt motor on 240 volts: 750/240 = 3.12 so use a 5 amp fuse A 2KW (2000 watt) appliance like a hot air blower on a 240 volt system: 2000/240 = 8.33 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse A 500 watt motor on a 110 volt supply 500/110 = 4.5 so use a 5 amp fuse A 1KW (1000 Watt) appliance at 110 volts: 1000/110 = 9.09 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse
etc etc etc.....
If the sum comes out below 13 amps, you can use a 13 amp plug. If it doesn't you need to hardwire it into a proper cooker supply.
Is this unit new?? Are you in the EU (EU regulations say appliances MUST be fitted with a plug) If it IS new, I would be talking to the supplier!
However, to address your question If it has a standard 3 core cable fitted, then it almost certainly should have a plug on it!
To reassure yourself, just use the simple formula of Watts divided by volts = amps
I'm presuming that you are in the UK (240 volt supply) and the oven is under 3KW (3000 watts)
This being the case 3000 watts divided by 240 volts = 12.5 amps, so you are OK with a 13 amp plug. Anything above a 3KW oven in the UK should have something meatier than a 13amp plug on it.
Of course, there is nothing to STOP you wiring it to a 45 amp outlet, but the fuse rating for the appliance should be matched to its maximum consumption to protect from faults failing to blow a fuse in a timely manner.
The black wire is Half of the 240 volts. Both the black and red wires carry 120 volts to make 240 volts. The green wire is going to be your grounding wire. The yellow wir is more than likely your neutral wire (although that goes against the electrical code). Tie in L1 to either black or red. Attach the yellow to n. I hae no idea what the E stands for. What color and how many wire are coming from the oven?
An oven uses both 120 & 220 -- actually it would be 120 volts and 240 volts or nominally, 110 volt and 220 volt.
The 120 is used for the lights. The 240 is used for the heating elements.
A 240 volt breaker (nominally 220 volt) -- supplies both 120 and 240 volts depending on how the supply is connected to the appliance.
There will be a 240 volt (nominally 220 volt) breaker in the main panel for the oven. This is two 120 volt breakers side-by-side with their toggle switches connected together with a strap across the top of the toggles.
I suggest checking the voltage going to elements. If there is no current, trace wires. Not exactly sure if there is a fuse/relay on your model. If there is current, than the elements may have gone bad.
First thing to do is pull the oven and check if there is 240 volts going to the oven. The display works off 1 of the 120 volt legs of the 240. If you have the 240 volts, then your issue is with either the display or relay board.