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My protection light want shut off.

Is there a way i could get my amps protect light to go off without going to a repair shops? If so could you tell me how or send diagram showing how.

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  • bigbooty561 Mar 20, 2009

    i have a formula 5175 1200 watt amp with two 12s. the protection light wont go off unless the remote wire is removed and the4 amp wont work without the remote wire...... help!!!

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2009

    I have the same problem and sent it back to the place I purchased and they say amp is fine but have sent replacement back anyway, it still doesnt work, have tested wiring on another amp and sub and its fine, any one any idea? Stupid prt mode, its a fusion sub and amp

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  • 13 Answers

Not if the amp is damaged. An amp that remains in protect mode (after cycling the power) usually has an internal fault and must be repaired.

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

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Hello newwithtech,

There are 4 possible causes for the amp to go into protection mode. Kicker calls it SORT for Short, Overvoltage, Reverse polarity, and Thermal. If the amp has been in and working properly, it's probably not reverse polarity. And if it goes immediately into protection when power is connected, I'd rule out thermal. So it's probably either a short or overvoltage.

1) Start by removing the speaker wires and see if the amp powers up properly. If it does, one or more of the speakers is shorted or grounded.

2) Test each pair of wires with a multimeter set to the lowest resistance (ohms) scale. Measure across each pair and from each individual wire to ground. Across each pair, the meter should read about 3-4 ohms. From each individual wire to ground, it should read infinity. If the meter reads "0" ohms (shorted) in any test, you have located the problem.

3) If the speaker wires test OK, set the meter to read DC volts and measure the voltage at the amp positive terminal. If the voltage is higher than 16V or lower than 9V, you've located the problem.

4) If the voltage is OK, remove the RCA inputs and test for proper power up. If it powers up without going into protection, you have a shorted/grounded input. Replace them one at a time to determine which one(s) is/are defective and replace the cable.

If these tests show all the wiring is good and the voltage is OK, the amp is probably shorted internally (most likely an output MOSFET), and requires service at the component level. You need to take it to your local audio shop or send it to Kicker for repair.

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Normally that means that you have a blown channel in the amp. Sometimes it can be triggered by a bad speaker. dis-connect your speakers and see if it still goes into protect. If it does not go into protect, yu amy only have a bad speaker. Get them checked to see if one is bad and then replace it with a good one. If the amp still goes into protect, you need to have your amp checked by a professional technician to have it repaired.

There is no way to tell just what is bad inside the amp or how much it will cost without having it checked properly. Sometimes these problems can be fixed for as little as $65 and other times it may cost over $200. It just depends on what is found to be the problem.

If I can be of any more help let me know. I have been repairing car and home audio equipment for nearly 18 years and can be very helpful.

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