Question about Whirlpool Gold Duet GHW9400P 3.8 Cu. Ft. Front-Loading Washer
Jsrock516, thanks for the great advice. I cannot find your last answer, the one where you gave specific instructions for checking the board. I printed it, but can't find it on the site again to respond to and rate?
The machine mysteriously started working again, after getting f dl and replacing the door latch, not working immediately after, then before trying your last recommendation, I tried the unit and it worked. Several loads worked fine, but now I'm getting an f11 error mid cycle (got it once, has worked fine since then). I'm assuming the CCU board is bad since I'm getting multiple errors. I'm thinking of getting a new machine (this one's 5 years old) instead of pouring money in to this one to keep getting things replaced. The salesman at one of our local stores is recommending the same machine, the new model, saying they're much more reliable now. But, for obvious reasons I'm hesitant. . . thoughts?
Is a new CCU easy to install (I found the door latch replacement to be relatively easy, so compared to that)? Can I order it from the same parts site as the door latch, and if so, do you know the part number, etc. (that made it SO easy last time, thanks!)?
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
Sorry about the laura. Here's the reply I gave on the 28th.
Okay...I hate it when that happens. Here's what we're down to. You've either purchased a defective door latch, you have a defective cable connector, or the Central Control Unit (CCU) is defective. I was hoping the door latch would have fixed the problem for you as this is the most common failure. Normally, if the CCU fails, an F11 error would also be generated. Here's what you need to do to verify:
1. Inspect the wire harness at BOTH ends to ensure you don't have any connectivity issues. Look for any frayed or broken wires along the cable run. The cables are generally installed well by the manufacturer, but I have seen cases where the cables come loose and begin to chaff, or break.
2. Next, remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place inthe rear. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the CCU, directly behind, and slightly above the wash tub. This is the Main Computer for the washer. There two connector plug leading from the CCU that control the door latch functions. They are as follows:
Plug 6: Door Lock/Unlock Solenoid (3-wire connector, 5th from the Right along the front of the CCU) - Readings across the Lock and Unlock solenoid test points should be 60 ohms. Unlock is Pins 2 & 3, Lock is Pins 1 & 3.
Plug 8: Door Lock Main Switch (4-wire connector, 3rd from the Right along the front of the CCU) - Readings across test points 1& 2, and 4&5 should read 0 ohms with the door in the LOCKED position. You will need to close the door and press the START button the lock the door. If the CCU works you should get 0 ohms at the test points mentioned.
NOTE: Checks are to be made on the board, NOT the plugs. Pins should be number from L to R. Perform end to end continuity checks on the cables by disconnecting the plugs at either end. Make sure the washer is UNPLUGGED when you do this.
If you do not get the appropriate readings at the CCU, I'm afraid you have a failed board. This is not common for this error code. If the readings are good, and you're sure all the wiring is good, you may have purchased a defective door latch.
I hope this helps you. Sorry that our original efforts didn't give you a quick fix. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. PS The "F11" error associated with the "Fdl" error that did not go away, tells me that this IS a CCU problem. I've experienced this one before. It could be a loose connection somwhere, but more than likely the control board is starting to fail.
Posted on Aug 31, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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