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Help!!! our ge electric dryer was not drying properly. we checked the vents, all clean. we took the center metal filter plate out from inside the drum and cleaned it. now we can't get it back together properly. the drum is now off kilter and we can't get the screws to line up properly. any suggestions?!?!?

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Further dissassembly is required. You'll want to do this anyway to inspect the heating elements. Some of what I say my not apply to your model (because you did not list a model number). 1. Disconnect power to dryer. 2. open door and remove screws going up into the dryer top. (two or four) Usually these are phillips screws, but you may find tri-wing phillips or T-15 torx. 3. swing top back, allowing access to remove the two screws holding the front panel to the side panels. (near the top) 5/16 hex or twin drive (phillips / #2 robertson square drive) 4. tilt front panel forward, lift off and swing to the side. You don't have to remove the door switch wires if you don't want to. 5. Pull drum forward a few inches. (it's a tight fit to get it past the dryer sides) 6. release dryer drive belt. 7. Finish removing the drum.
8. inspect coil heating elements. If one or both have a break in them, you can replace just the coils, you don't have to get the entire big metal part that holds them. 8. Clean and reassemble. (check the teflon rear drum sleeve bearing and the front drum support slides. now's the easiest time to replace them if needed.) 9. put the drum back in, then the belt back on by reaching your thin arms way back to the belt tensioning pulley. The grooved side of the belt touches the drum and goes down directly to the motor drive pulley on the left, then around the tensioning pulley. 10. Put front back on dryer. 11. turn drum by hand several revolutions to make sure the belt is not twisted or comes off. 11. Finish reassemble, connect power and test. You're done !

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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Km 70 series electric dryer, takes extra long time to dry and vent is clean


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Note: If your filter chute is clear and you vent to outside is fine then I would swap out the control or cycling thermostat mounted on the blower housing by the skinny white fuse. It's bi-metal inside is probably fatiqued to the point it does not allow for proper temp in the drum anymore. Another possibility is the timer contacts inside could be burred a bit and not allowing proper electrical current to the heater. Someimes you ca file down the points providing you are careful not to disturb the innards while taking a peek inside timer. The small ring around the shaft must be removed before lifting the timer cover plate to do this.

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Heating elements are lit up working normal, drum hot but not inside of drum. it takes forever to dry clothes. vent wide open no clogging inside. need help ?


Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.
Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum.

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The Dryer is Dead. It will not make a sound when the start button is pushed


Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries better or OK like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
If the vent doesn't make a difference, then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle approx between 120 degrees and 160 degrees ( without clothes ). Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
Be careful in using laundry products not to spill them on the exterior surface of any washer or dryer. Wipe up any spills promptly with a damp soft cloth or paper towel. Most exteriors are painted synthetic enamel, which can be damaged or removed by chlorine bleach, ammonia, solvents or other chemicals often used in laundering and stain removal. Do not use dryer top as a work-top for stain removal unless it is protected by a heavy plastic cover, or for rust removal. Use the sink instead and follow remover product label directions exactly, including flushing the sink with cold water.
Do not spray per-wash stain removers on clothing on top of the dryer unless the top is protected completely; this may corrode plastic control parts as well as paint.
Clean lint filter after each load for efficient drying. If the load is loaded with lint, clean the filter part-way through the drying cycle also. Clean out the exhaust vent system at least once a year, and be sure it is not clogged at any time. NEVER vent a dryer into the house; vent to the outside
If crayon gets into the dryer and melts onto the drum, remove as much as possible with non-flammable household cleaner. (READ LABEL TO BE SURE.) A flammable cleaner could cause a fire in the dryer. Apply cleaner to a sponge or cloth and the wipe interior. Do NOT spray or pour on the interior; it might get down inside the dryer. Wipe off with rags or paper towels. Then tumble old rags to remove any residue left, until no more comes off. A colored stain may remain on the drum.
If a drum is spotted by starched or tinted articles, wipe the interior with a cloth moistened with a diluted bleach solution. Use a sponge or clean cloth, dipped in suds, to remove the bleach solution from the drum. Rinse well and dry.
If the dryer is used to dry laundered clothing, such as children snow pants between outings, wipe the drum with suds and rinse. This will remove any dirt before clean laundry is placed into the machine.
Wipe the door opening occasionally. Clean the exterior with suds and rinse. To protect the finish, polish with an appliance wax.
A case of white clothes coming out of a dryer blue: New jeans had been washed and then dried in that dryer just before. Sometimes dye will come off new blue jeans and dry on the inside of the dryer drum, and then transfer to the next batch of wet clothes put inside. It's good to check the dryer drum after a load of brand new jeans. If it is dye coated, clean the inside with soapy water until no color comes off on the cleaning cloth. Wipe off all soapy residue with a clean wet cloth.
Check with your state or city to see if you need a permit to work on your gas dryer before doing any repairs. The first thing you need to do when your GE-HP gas dryer is not heating, is to check to see if your dryer ignite is glowing or not.
please comment on these solution by staying now helpful


If the ignite glows, the problem could be the gas valve, the coils or the gas supply to the dryer.
If the ignite doesn't glow, then you need to check the following parts.

The igniter:
The igniter is a resistor made of ceramic and other materials that will get red hot when electricity passes through it.
The job of the igniter is to open the contacts on the flame sensor and ignite the gas. A bad igniter could be the reason why your GE-HP gas dryer is not heating.

The flame sensor:
The flame sensor is located on the combustion chamber, the job of the flame sensor is to open the gas valve and shut off the igniter. A bad flame sensor will cause the dryer not to heat.

The timer:
The timer is a distribution center where the electricity is directed to the different electric parts in the dryer.

The mayor problem you will find inside of the timer are burnt contacts.
When the contacts are burnt, there is no way for the electricity to reach the intended parts. Contact B & A have to be close in order for the electricity to travel to the temperature switch.

The temperature switch:
This switch is another distribution control. It take electricity from the timer and send it to the selected parts on the thermostats. If your GE-HP dryer is not heating, this is one of the parts you need to check.

The thermostats:
There are three different thermostats in most dryers. From the temperature switch electricity has to pass trough the safety thermo left, the drum outlet thermostat, the control inlet thermostat, and to the heating elements.
A bad thermostat could be the reason why your GE-HP gas dryer is not heating.

The motor switch:
The motor switch has two contacts that allows the heating elements to be turned on, only when the motor is running..

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1 Answer

My GE Profile Harmony dryer won't dry. The drum is turning but the clothes just won't dry. Circuit breaker is not tripped.


Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance. Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct.

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This may sound a bit over simplified but when a dryer starts to get hot inside it is a sign of an airflow problem.

Start with the outside vent flapper. Check to see if there is lint build up on the flapper / louvers.

Pull off the vent hose and check for lint build up. If the vent hose is a flexible plastic hose they have a tendancy to clog with lint in the sprials and then the lint contines to build up until airflow is restricted.

After checking external vents and ducts next remove the lint filter. If you use dryer sheets wash the filter with white vinegar to remove the build up. It may appear clean but the material from the dryer sheets clogs the filters.

In the area around the lint filter check the ducting / air passages for lint build up and clean it.

In the process of all the cleaning do NOT use anything sharp. A vacuum crevice tool and a Looped metal coat hanger do wonders for cleaning assistance.

Before you reconnect the dryer vent try running the dryer with a light load of anything wet to see if it drys properly with the vent disconnected. After that reconnect the vent and repeat the same drying test to see if the drying times are close to the same.

This should solve your hot dryer problem.. If it does not then respond here and we can talk about taking your dryer apart.

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the air flow out of the dryer it should be a very high volume.

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Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

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