I do have the same unit that I am currently using on a EOS 10D. It works fine for me. It lso operates on my EOS 350D but does not flash off quite bright enough on this camera in very low light.The unit was previously paired with a canon EOS 5 film. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org for required information.
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Your flash will fire optically. This is wireless but not radio.On the flashgun window move through the options until you see all of these in the window :- Flashing M, MZoom (24mm)
(the power output eg) 1/4
Flashgun icon CH1 Slave (blank)
The front panel should show a flashing red light. This means it is ready to receive the light signal from your onboard flash. From the camera menu select the in built flash control.
Set it to - Built-in flash - CustWireless Flash mode - Manual flash Wireless func - (single flashgun icon)
Channel- 1 ch
firing group - (flashgun icon)All
(flashgun icon) flashoutput - 1/64
selecting 1/64 should be sufficient to trigger the flash gun but not light the scene.
Manually pop up the onboard flash
In the view finder you'll see a number of green bars when half pressing the shutter and wait for them to go down to one which mean the camera and flashgun are communicating, fully press to take the shot and the flash (off camera) should fire.
You need a WEIN Safe Synch Hot shoe adapter first. The trigger voltage could possibly ruin the flash circuitry of the camera if not the camera as a whole. Even with the wein, you will not have iTTL nor TTL and can only be used in Auto or Manual Mode.
Hi, the flash in question will not work in TTL mode even though it has contacts on the bottom that may indicate that it could...... so it will work in auto or manual mode but not adjust itself. All adjustments will have to be made manually.
Either the internal thyristor charging circuit has failed or the flash capacitor is unserviceable.
Neither fault is worth repairing. Buy a small auto-exposure flashgun and use it in the hotshoe; they're dirt cheap and there are plenty of used ones for free if you ask on FreeCycle.
You'll need to go into the DSC-V1 menus to enable the hot shoe on the top plate of the camera and you'll find that even the smallest and least specified flashgun will give better results, but try to get one with at least two aperture settings within the range f2.8 to f8. Anything outside that range is useless to you as that's the entire aperture range on the DSC-V1. You'll also need to ensure that when taking photos, the camera is set to the same aperture as the flashgun. To do this set the camera mode switch to "A" for aperture priority mode and use the thumbwheel to select the correct aperture, the camera will choose the appropriate shutter speed. You can also use "M" for manual mode in which you set both the aperture and choose the shutter speed. At night, choose 1/60 but the actual exposure will be measured in the thousandths of seconds in which the flash is illuminated.
If you're rich or lucky you'll get a Sony HVL-F32X flashgun; it dwarfs the camera and is very powerful but everything is fully automatic with no manual overrides. For this flashgun, the hotshoe menu setting must be "OFF".
Using Vivitar 3200A flash gun on a DSLR is risky for the following reason. The trigger voltage of a DSLR at flash hot shoe that takes it to its TTL (through the lens) circuit is less than 10 volts, it is about 6 to 8 volts in the recent DSLRs. The trigger voltage generated by Vivitar 3200A at full charge flashing is around 180 volts (max). That is a fatal dose for a sensitive DSLR TTL circuit. This high voltage flash gun will work endlessly, the only damage is to the TTL flash circuit. When you attach a TTL flash to the DSLR after using Vivitar 3200A for sometime, your TTL flash will not communicate with your camera. It will be just another ordinary flash without any auto functions. There is a Wein adapter that you can fix b/w your cameral hot shoe and the vivitar flash gun that is said to reduce the trigger voltage that passes into the camera. Try it if you get it. Without this gadget it is better not to use non recommended and non TTL flashes on latest DSLRs.