Question about Goldstar DH304 Dehumidifier
I need a Goldstar 2H00791A 115v motor for my Dynasty Dehumidifier. Any ideas?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: NO POWER TO MY DEHUMIDIFIER
I took my dehumidifier apart and I found why the unit no longer would start.
First, there is a fuse inside the metal compartment that houses the control circuit board.
However, the fuse was not blown. Instead I found the relay that controls the compressor,
(circuit diagram calls it RY-COMP) was not functioning and was left in the open position.
The relay must switch the compressor on/off based on humidity, full water hopper, and
maybe other factors like temperature.
The RY-COMP is a large black plastic component on the circuit board with two
wires (blue and black) connected at the top. I tested the contacts and they remained
open when starting up the dehumidifier. Doing a small bit of rewiring so that the blue and black wire
were connected and also wired to RY-COMP terminal 3, the dehumidifier came back to life.
However, this is good for proving what broke but without an electronic control to cycle the
unit on and off and to halt when the water hopper is full it's not a valuable alternative and
it risks a burnout of the compressor from constant use.
I think the RY-COMP relay is a solid state relay which could have gone bad from a spike
in voltage when plugging the unit in or cycling on/off.
I certainly don't want to buy another unit where the circuitry is not robust enough to survive
plugging in every couple weeks. I was thinking I could try replacing the relay with a magnet relay which would probably survive spikes much better.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
SOURCE: ghd30y7 goldstar dehumidifier
We came home to this problem the other day, water all over the basement, leaking out the bottom left side, nothing in the collection basin but plenty would spill out if I tipped the unit forward. After searching the web and these forums I theorized that the coils were frozen. I let the unit thaw. No luck. I removed the faceplate and discovered thick, wet silt had filled the internal collection plate and was clogging the drain. I stuck a pipe-cleaner through the drain and the problem was fixed. Took some paper towels and cleaned the whole thing. Works like new. I assume the unit will need to be cleaned regularly to keep it going. To remove the faceplate, unscrew the two phillips' head screws under the faceplate along the sides, then take a flat head screwdriver and pop the tabs holding the face on, one tabe along each side. There are also two tabs on top, but you don't need to mess with those, as they simply act against gravity. Whole thing just clips back together after cleaning. I have no idea if this voids the warranty.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
If any machine is completely electrically dead it is a sign that there is no electrical voltage getting through to operate it. Using an electric meter it is a relatively easy task to find the point of differential voltages which would indicate where the open circuit is located. The blue green fluid found is from copper oxide and is not necessarily indicative of a refrigerant leak. Oil present would be an indicator of a refrigerant leak.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
SOURCE: Goldstar DH304 Dehumidifier
Take cover off. First check the fuse on the circuit board. If it's blown replace it. That should get the motor running, the motor might be or is going out. If the motor is bad you'll have to replace the motor. If the fuse is good and the motor is good, unhook the wires on circuit board that go to the humidity control switch. If the unit comes on with the humidity control switch unhooked, you'll have to replace the humidity control switch. Sears has them for about $11.50. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
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