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No I wouldn't say there is anything wrong with your DSLR I would think that the flash sync speed is set incorrectly. Each camera model will have a specific shutter to flash synchronized speed. I've had and used SLR cameras with sync speeds as low as 1/30 and DSLR's at 1/250. With my studio camera under studio strobes with a shutter speed at 1/60th I do get a slight blink of light BUT, it's the flash duration that makes the exposure. There is also a difference between a flash made for a film camera and one that is made for a digital camera check make sure teat the flash is compatible with the camera you are using, also check see what the camera syn speed is and set your shutter speed to that. If your camera is equipped with an "M" mode then it also has a "P" mode for program this is a common mode to use flash because the camera sets everything for you all you need to do is compose, focus and trip the shutter. If the exposures are not coming out right then another thing may be a factor and that's the light metering mode (if you camera is equipped) look in your manual there could be as many as four different metering modes, check to see what the manual recommends for flash photography for your camera.
Another thing I use digital flash on my film cameras BUT not a film flash on a digital camera they just don't sync right.
i have a dine auto-exposure macro- light, not the same model but its batteries are accessed by adjusting the control unit from an angled position to straight. Then the front of the control can slide up/off and you can access the four A4 batteries. Hope this solves your problem.
The fault is either with your camera/lens or with the meter itself. Try the meter with another camera, if the exposure error is still present then check that the custom compensation feature on your meter has not been set by mistake (page 26 of the user manual). If this doesn't cure the fault then try fitting a new CR123A battery. If the fault still remains then you can either compensate for the error by always using a longer shutter speed/wider aperture than recommended or you will need to send the meter for servicing.
Good luck, and please take a moment to rate my answer.
I've known this problem to occur if the wrong kind of CR123/CR123A lithium battery is used. They come as rechargeable and dry cell (i.e. non-rechargeable) versions. For sensitive devices like yours the difference is important as the internal resistance of the rechargeables is lower which affects the voltage characteristics.This meter is designed only for the dry cell version: see page 34 of the user manual, although the instructions don't make this fact clear enough IMHO. The reason for using the dry cell version is that the output voltage remains constant until the battery is nearly exhausted, but the rechargeable version starts at a slightly higher than nominally rated voltage and drifts down as the battery discharges. This means that you only get a truly accurate reading with a dry cell battery. There is no user adjustment to recalibrate the meter but you can use a different ISO rating to compensate or use the exposure compensation settings.
These were very cheap lightmeters when sold new and as such were not designed to be serviced.
You aroused my curiosity so I've just tried opening a scrap one and it appears to be glued together, I tried my usual method of cracking along the join line but as the plastic appears to be a type of bakelite the casing cracked instead.
If you want to open this meter I'd recommend using a razor saw around the join line to separate the casing halves. Afterwards I'd recommend using epoxy resin to rejoin the two halve.
today i tried the filter for the first time and i got the same result... i think its because of using a very small appreture like f22... i searched the net for images that this filter was used in and most of them used f8 to 14... I am not very sure of this but i am planning to try it tomorrow and see by myself...