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How to wire a aquastat controler immusible type with a flotect switch to a millivolt thermopile.flotect has two wire,aquastat has two wire also the thermopile has two wires i have wireing from valve to the burner. what i need to know is any of those wire plus or minis

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Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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Fryer cut off but pilot stays on


You could have a weak pilot or thermopile. If the thermopile is not heated correctly by the pilot, it cannot generate enough millivolts to open the gas valve. The same is true if the thermopile is faulty. Thermopiles consist of several junctions of which only some may go bad causing low millivolt output. Millivolt output with the thermostat off and pilot lit should be around 600 millivolt, you can check with a DC multimeter set on MV across the two wires coming from the thermopile. Remember, the thermopile has to be heated by the pilot thoroughly before you will get the full millivolt reading and the thermostat must be off. Cleaning the pilot assembly is often helpful, thermopiles are inexpensive and relatively easy to change. Of course, other problems can cause this issue as well, but the above are most common.

Mar 28, 2014 | Imperial Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Pilot light won't stay lit after releasing when lighting gas fryer


This symptom indicates something wrong with the millivolt system. Start by checking the wires from the thermopile to the gas valve, insuring they are all tight and in place. Check the hi limit thermostat, if you have an ohm meter it should read .1 or .2 across it. With you meter set to dc millivolts, and flame present on the pilot, read across the thermocouple wires (red and white) to see the millivolts generated, with the thermostat off and the gas valve in pilot position you should get approx 600 millivolt plus minus 50. The pilot will have to be on for a minute or so to get maximum millivolts. If the millivolts are correct, hi-limit closed, and all wiring is connected, you likely have a faulty gas valve. If the hi limit reads more than .1 or .2 replace the limit, if you are not getting the millivolts from the thermopile, replace it.

Apr 05, 2013 | Imperial IFS-40 - Gas Deep Fryer - 40 Lb -...

1 Answer

How do you convert a remote thermostat to a directly wired digital thermostat to a vulcan powerhouse 100 central heater unit


First, you need to know how many millivolts the Thermopile (aka Pilot Generator) on the the furnace's pilot assembly millvolt terminal. Then you find a wired digital thermostat, that meets the same millivoltage that the Thermopile Generates or has a lower requirement. You have to run millivolt wiring from the furnace's pilot assembly millivolt terminal block (the wiring should be connect to the TH & the TPH terminals, to where you want to place the digital wall thermostat. In most cases, it can not be more that 15' away from the furnace. In other words, no more than 15' of wiring can be involved.

Hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

Jun 20, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hello i have a J5 lincat fryer and the pilot stays alight but the burners won't connect (light) have replaced the thermostat and the thermo couple but still no joy any ideas on this not sure what to do...


Check if there is 500 to 750 millivolts across the thermopile wires; thermopile generates 500 to 750 millivolts if properly heated to energize pilot and main valve solenoids of the gas valve for pilot and main burner operation. If the voltage across the thermopile is good and all wiring connections are ok, I think you have to replace the gas valve.
Regards.

Jun 15, 2011 | Imperial IFS40 Deep Fryer

1 Answer

Pilot is lit ,but when i turn the thremostat on nothing.


Has the control knob been turned from the PILOT position to the ON position?
If that has been done, check the wiring from the thermostat to the Gas Control Valve in the heater. Make sure the wires are connected in both places (T-Stat & Control Valve). If all of that appears to be correct, there's a good chance that the Thermopile (I think Williams calls it a Pilot Generator) has failed. This part generates millivolts of electricity to open and close the gas valve when the Thermostat calls for heat. But, don't confuse the Thermopile with the Thermocouple. Your unit has both. And since the pilot is burning, that tells me it's not a problem with the Thermocouple.

Anyway, the only way to test the thermopile is with a millivolt multimeter. You will have to consult your Owners Manual for the proper millivolt output for your heater.

Hope this helps head you in right direction in solving this problem.

Mar 02, 2011 | Williams (5009622) Ceramic Gas Wall...

1 Answer

I replaced the gasvalve and thermalpile in my 35,BTU wall heater I light the pilot and turn the heat on it goes out I ran a new state wire in case of a short but it still does it, did I get a bad...


Did you get the right gas valve for a thermapile and not a 24 volt gas valve? Also I would recheck my wiring.... Here is a article that may be of HELP....... Hope this Helps.....
Thermocouple: A thermocouple is a device made of two different metals which creates a small electrical charge when heated at one end.
Thermopile: A thermopile is a probe that contains multiple thermocouples, therefore it can produce a larger electrical current. Millivolts: 1/1000 of a volt - thermocouples and thermopiles typically produce from 25 to 600 millivolts of power.
Piezio - a spark producing device often used to ignite gas pilots and burners.
Gas Valves Types:
A. Single Thermocouple Only - Used on some gas logs
B. Valves with Thermocouples and Thermopiles - Used on most hearth appliances and gas logs with switches or remote controls or thermostats.
C. ODS Systems - Used on Mostly Vent-Free. Available in manual control or thermostat/remote/switch (combination) valves.
valvepict.jpg
Typical Gas Valve A. Thermocouple-Only
Found in: Most gas log sets with standard safety pilot knob control. Also found in certain gas space heaters and construction-site portable heaters.
Explanation: This type of gas valve used a single thermocouple. A thermocouple is a device made of two different metals which creates a small electrical charge when heated at one end by the gas pilot. This small charge causes an electromagnet inside the gas valve to open and allow gas to flow to the main burners. Since the thermocouple must be heated before the burner will start, gas appliances often have a startup mode, during which a knob must be depressed and held for 30 seconds or so after lighting the pilot. At the end of the 30 seconds, the pilot should be generating enough electricity for the valve to operate correctly. At this time, the startup knob can be released and the valve turned to an "on" position for appliance operation.
pilotclose.gif Troubleshooting:
Most problems with this type of valve are due to thermocouple problems. Check the following:
1. Connection from the thermocouple to the valve. Clean the threads of the connecting nut with a pencil eraser and re-tighten.
2. Pilot hood and flame direction. The pilot should engulf the top 5/8" of the thermocouple with a decent flame. If the flame hits the thermocouple too low, this can cause the appliance to go out or not generate enough millivolts for valve operation. The pilot hood and orifice should also be clean from soot which could slow or block the pilot flame.
3. Pilot pressure. Many of these valves have an adjustment screw to adjust the pilot flame. A pilot that is too short may allow the pilot to stay lit after ignition, but may not create enough charge to allow the burners to ignite.
4. Overheating: If the unit works for a few hours and then shuts down, it's possible the thermocouple has become overheated. Repositioning of the gas valve and/or pilot may be needed to avoid this problem.
Problems with LP units can also be due to a tank that is nearly empty or a bad regulator at the tank.
B. Thermocouple & Thermopile valve
gas1.gif Found in: Most modern VENTED gas stoves, fireplaces and fireplace inserts as well as vented gas log sets with thermostat or remote control.
This valve is similar to the thermocouple only valve, however has a pilot which heats up BOTH a thermocouple and a thermopile. The thermocouple still acts to prove that the pilot flame is on and allows this flame to continue after startup. The thermopile is used to power a second circuit which is used to open the main valve. This second circuit is powerful enough (300-600 millivolts) to allow the use of a thermostat, wall switch or control switch to operate the main valve. Control of the valve is obtained simply by hooking a pair of wires to two terminals located on the valve.
Startup is similar to the thermocouple-only valve. A piezo spark ignition is used to ignite the pilot after the gas knob is turned to the "pilot" position and depressed. Once the pilot is lit, the knob is held in for 30 seconds to "prove" the heat and then released and turned from the "pilot" to the "on" position. The main burner will then respond to the switch, thermostat or remote control.
Troubleshooting
Since there is both a thermocouple and thermopile in this valve type, it is important to isolate where the potential problem may be. If the pilot can be lit and stays on after the knob is released, then the problem is probably with the thermopile side of the valve. Here are the most common problems and solutions.
1. Pilot does not light or stay lit after knob is released - Make certain that the Piezo igniter works by checking for a spark between the igniter tip and the pilot hood. If there is no spark, the piezo may be bad or the piezo wire might be shorting to the appliance chassis. It is also possible that the igniter tip needs to be bent slightly toward the pilot hood so the spark jumps to it.
Check carefully that gas to appliance is on and that the valve is in he correct (pilot) position and fully depressed when lighting.
If pilot ignites but does not stay lit after knob is released, then the problem is with the thermocouple not generating enough voltage to the valve. It may be that the pilot adjustment needs to be turned up, or the thermocouple replaced. Another possibility is that the thermocouple may not be being "bathed" fully by the pilot flame. Check your owners manual for a diagram and description of the proper pilot flame and hood adjustment. It is also possible that there is soot or other blockage in the pilot tube, orifice or hood which is reducing the size of the pilot (and also the voltage of the thermocouple).
2. Pilot stays lit, but appliance will not turn on - There are two common causes for this. It is possible that the thermopile is not producing enough millivolts to power the control circuit. The millivolts can be checked with a simple voltmeter (consult the owners manual for proper setting) and adjusted with the pilot adjustment screw. Improper millivolts will also cause the appliance to shut down in the middle of operation.
Another common problem is loose or poor connections or circuits to your appliance switch, thermostat or remote transceiver. This can be isolated by simply using a small piece of wire to jump the "TP" and "TH" terminals located on these valves. If the appliance turns on when these terminals are jumped, then you can be sure that your problem is not in the appliance itself, but further down the switch circuit. Make certain you have used the suggested gauge of wire and that the length for your control runs does not exceed the specs given in your manual.
3. Other possible problems - include wind or back drafts affecting the pilot flame and checking of "spillage" circuits which may be wired into the valve in most B-Vent units.
If all the above checks out, and your valve is still acting weird (i.e., works some of the time), then you may have a defective gas valve in the appliance. Problems with LP units can also be due to a tank that is nearly empty or a bad regulator at the tank.
C. ODS System
Found in: Unvented (Ventless, Vent free) gas logs, fireplaces and stoves. These systems are available in manual or remote control.
ods.gif ODS stands for "Oxygen Depletion Sensor" , a term which accurately describes this valve type. The valve itself is similar in many ways to the two valve types above...with one exception. The pilot tube is a precision mechanism that creates a very stable flame as long as the room air contains the proper amount of oxygen. If the oxygen level in the room air drops even slightly, the pilot becomes unstable and lifts off of the thermocouple (see diagram) causing the gas valve and appliance to cease operation. This type of valve is very reliable, and there have been very few failures of this system - even with tens of millions in use worldwide.

Mar 02, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I can not use my remote control... i have tried to reset it by pressing the learn button... but not sure what im doing...


If you followed the Owner's Manual Instructions and it didn't beep twice, it may be that you didn't have the slide switch on the transceiver box is in the remote position. Also, the pilot has to be burning for the remote to work. As the heat of the pilot flame against the thermopile generates millivolts of electricity to open or close the gas control valve when the remote control tells it to .Also, be sure that you've turned the Control Valve Knob from the Pilot position to the ON position. In addition, if the thermopile on your gas log set is not generating a minimum of 450 millivolts it won't work. You may want to check the owners manual of your gas log burner to see what it says about the thermopile voltage for that particular burner. And finally, make sure the 12 volt battery in the hand-held is not weak or dead.

Jan 15, 2011 | Skytech 1001-BE Black Two Button Fireplace...

1 Answer

We changed the thermostat in our unit and now the pilot lite won't stay lit!


You have to check the following:
1. Does the pilot flame has the ability to heat up the thermopile? Themopile must be properly heated in order to generate voltage to open the pilot valve as well as main valve.
2. When the thermolpile is heated, does it generates 500 millivolts? If not, your thermopile needs replacement. If it does and still the pilot flame wont stay lit, your gas valve needs replacement.
3. Does the hi limit device has continuity on its terminals? If there is no continuity on hi limit terminals, you have to replace it. One of the thermopile wire passes on this hi limit terminal to cut the voltage supply on pilot valve in case the oil temperature reaches 450F.
4. Check and tighten all wiring connections, millivolts generated by thermopile will not pass on loosely terminated wiring.

Jan 12, 2011 | Pitco Frialator 35CS Deep Fryer

1 Answer

Fryer comes on gets to temperature, then after a varied amount of time depending on use will power down, and will not come back on to maintain temperature, or will occasionally come on, but not to desired ...


Hi there.
Thermopile must be free of soot or any form of dirt so that it coud absorb the right intensity of heat from the pilot flame for millivolt generation used in energizing the pilot and main valve electrical coils for pilot and burner operation. Pilot flame must be stable during fryer operation as well as the gas pressure being supplied to the unit.
All wiring connection must be tight, a very small amount of voltage generated by the thermopile or millivolts will not pass thru loosely connected wires.
Regards.

Nov 04, 2010 | Pitco Frialator SG14 Deep Fryer

1 Answer

I have a Raypak pool heater with a invensys gas valve, the burner is not kicking in, pilot light is lit and stays lit, I jumper the complete switch circuit and still does not kick in. this is a millivolt...


Usually not the gas valve unless line voltage was applied to it. Millivolt systems are very touchy about connections. First check the output of the millivolt generator (thermopile) the wires for this usually go straight to the gas valve they should be one red and one white usually in a high temp fiber glass sheath. The wires will lead from the gas valve to a rod by the pilot. Test between the two wires with a meter that can read mV DC. You should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-600mV DC. If you do not, then the thermopile is bad. If you do, then it is either a bad connection somewhere or an open safety in the circuit. Check all of the safety devices and clean all of the connections in the unit with sandpaper. Usually for safety devices there will be a high limit on the discharge of the header, a pressure switch sensing water pressure, and a rollout switch or two in the control compartment above the burner. Good luck, I have to battle with mV systems all the time at work, usually it's just a bad connection.

Thanks,
Chillmaster

Jul 02, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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