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go on line and find service info on your carb you will need to find out the setting for fuel air mixture screw it should turn in to reduce fuel to air mixture but find out the setting for your make of carb as they all vary
Why did you need to clean the carb? Routine servicing of the aircleaner would keep the carb clean for life. The pilot screw should be 1.5 turns out approx. with a small adjustment either way. Idle speed is set to a smooth low idle.If this doesn't fix it have you got something in the carb not replaced correctly? The float needle/float assy? How did you clean it? Have you introduced fluff/dirt into the carb and did you blow it clean with an airline?
Check the fuel level in the float chambers of the carbs, it could be too low! Readjust the float to obtain correct level. Blow out the primary and main jets with compressed air.
Hope you adjusted the air screw mixture at the right temperature of the engine i.e. you need to warm it up and than adjust also check the valve clearance of the engine.
Hope this helps
Hi Anonymous, on the right hand side of the carburator there is an idle adjusting screw with a spring behind it, turn screw clockwise to increase idle counter clockwise to decrease idle. There is also an air/fuel mixture screw inside a carb body lug that may or may not be plugged with an aluminum cap that's about 3/16" thick. This cap can be drilled out to acess the air/fuel mixture screw. Turning screw clockwise will lean out mixture and lower idle, turning screw counter clockwise will richen mixture and raise idle. You need to balance the two adjusting screws to obtain an idle of 950-1000 RPM then back out air/fuel mixture screw 1/4 turn, snap throttle to confirm responce, you may continue to back out air/fuel mixture screw untill desired throttle responce is achieved, if you see black smoke coming out of exhaust you have gone to far and need to turn screw back in 1/8 turn at a time, final adjustment should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature. Good luck and hace nice day.
The bottom screw on the carburetor is the main fuel mixture screw, turn this "in" slowly until is "seats" and then back it out two turns. The idle mixture screw is located on the side (do not confuse with the idle speed screw), turn this in slowly until it seats and then back it out one turn. This will get you in the ballpark but it will have to be fine tuned from their. The proper adjustment is between a "lean" running condition (engine will try to cut off) and a "rich" running condition (engine will load up). The main fuel mixture is adjusted at full throttle position and the idle mixture screw is adjusted at idle speed. Once this is done, you can adjust the idle speed screw in the low throttle position. Hope this helps.
Hi, Gerald I will try to help. The high speed mixture screw basic setting is about 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated position and the idle or low speed mixture screw is about 1 turn out from lightly seated position. To get the manufacturers basic or start out setting, remember the position of the screws before you start any adjustments. Both are done the same way. Turn adjust screw in or clockwise until lightly seated (so the soft metal is not damaged when seating the screw) then turn out or counterclockwise, high 1 1/4 turns and low 1 turn out. Do any adjustments in 1/8 turn increments until you get running. Do not turn the high speed mixture screw so there is less than 3/4 of a turn from seated position, The reason is not to run the engine too lean so engine does not overheat. When turning the screw in, there is less gas in the mixture, therefore when turning out you allow more gas in the fuel to air mixture. The problem might not be adjustment, it could be many other things causing it not to run properly. Make sure the air filter is clean, the fuel filter in the tank is not plugged up. Spark plug might be fouling up, the fuel lines might have dirt or starting to go. The fuel tank is usually vented by the tank cap and might be plugging up not allowing enough air in. Check the bolts screws and gaskets of the carb so there is no air leaking in. The carb might need an overhaul, cleaning and maybe a carb kit. These are suggestions to help diagnose the problem. I might have forgotten other things to check out. I hope this helps you out a bit. All the best and good luck.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. I know this is a 26 cc petrol engine on your trimmer but do not know if it is a 2 or 4 stroke engine. If you are in AU then it would be a 2 stroke. There are a few things that can cause this.
If you engine has a primer bulb.... Hold it depressed hard while trying to increase engine speed. What your trying to do by doing this is prevent air introduction via the primer bulb if it has a pin hole in it. If you can get normal speeds bu holding the primer bulb depressed HARD the primer bulb has a pin hole in it and must be replaced.
Also look inside the fuel tank at the fuel collection tube end. Usually there is a screen inside the tank. Some times the screen becomes coated with gunk and it has to be removed from inside the tank for cleaning.
If your carb has a fuel shut off on the side of it... unbolt the fuel manifold and pull the bolt out of the manifold. Models with this type of fuel shut off have a screen inside the manifold that has to be pushed out of the manifold and cleaned.
If after checking all of the above you still have the problem then it is time to remove the "L" fuel mixture screw on the side of the carb. BEFORE removal... rotate the screw clockwise counting turns until it JUST barely closes. Do not turn it tightly closed as the end of the mixture screw needle will break off inside the carb and you will have to replace the carb.
Then rotate the mixture screw ccw and remove it. Spray carb cleaner into the mixture screw hole to remove any debris.
IF your carb only has an "H" screw perform the same procedure above but for sure clean both the "H" and "L" mixture holes with carb cleaner. Wipe off the needles too.
Install both screws CW until closed and then reverse the number of turns CCW you counted before removal for EACH of the 2 mixture screws.
Make sure the FOAM Air Filter is NOT clogged with debris. Clean as necessary.
Start the engine and let it warm up briefly. Attempt to increase speed slowly to full speed. If the engine hesitates open the "L" mixture screw less than 1/8 th turn and try again. You should note a change in performance after rotating the "L" Mixture screw ccw. Begin rapidly throttling up the engine after EACH adjustment until the engine no longer hesitates or tries to stall upon acceleration from idle.
RUN the engine at TOP SPEED. Adjust the "H" Mixture screw until you get maximum engine rpm. You will NOT hurt the engine but it must run at MAX speed smoothly.
CHECK acceleration from idle to MAX again. re-adjust "L" mixture if necessary.
One last thing to check is make sure the gas cap is vented. Without a vented gas cap the engine will run briefly then perfromace will degrade substantially. Many times on trimmers I see people place plastic over the fuel tank fill hole and install a damaged cap. Replacing the cap has fixed many many trimmers with tank vent problems due to a bad fuel cap!
This should get you going again. If you need any more assistance or you still have the problem after performing the aboe please respond here with any updates.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
If the engine 'pops and farts' quite a bit, it would be that the carb is getting too much fuel, but since you said it did that just a couple times, I would guess it is a plugged line or bad gas or someone has adjusted your fuel mixture screw. You also said that the engine died as soon as you touched the throttle which says it is getting too much fuel. Try taking the gas tank and carb off and see if the fuel flows through it. If you have no issues with that, adjust your mixture screw. You may need to find help on how to adjust the mixture, but you can count how many turns it takes to seat the mixture screw down snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREW. Write this number down, you will need it in case you can't get it to crank. Now, turn the screw out 3 full turns and try to crank it several times. If it will not start, turn it 1/2 turn and try again. Continue this until it cranks and then adjust until the engine runs smoothly. It really sounds like you are getting too much fuel. Did you see or smell any gas at the exhaust?
Yes, Colorado is much higher in altitude. Do to higher altitude the barometric pressure is less than sea level by a long shot. Lower barometric pressure mean that less air is entering your engine. Which in turns mean that your engine is now running richer than it was at a a lower altitude. So I recommend checking you engine timing, and adjusting your carbs air/fuel mixture. yes this means that you may need to rejet. but first there is a screw on your 22r's carb that you must adjust to lean the air mixture just right. I have had a stock 22r carbortor before and never had to rejet it. i probibly should have but it ran fine at sea level and all the way to about 10000 ft. after 10000 feet i had to lean the fuel mixture to even alow the engine to run. This screw that you must turn is hidden due to toyota not wanting you to tamper with it and burn your engine to the ground by running your engine to lean. it has a metal plug on the passenger side of the carb about the size of a pencil eraser. you must drill that out and then you can adjust the air fuel mixture. Clock wise is to lean the air fuel. and Counter clock wise is to richen the air fuel mixture.A good rule of thumb is to turn the air/fuel screw all the way clock wise and then back out about 2 and 1/2 turns. That is the factory adjustment. you may only need 2 turns out. Best of luck i hope you get it running perfect. Try this adjustment first then if it still runs rich then think about rejetting.
Here is a picture of what i am talking about.
#1 is the air/fuel mixture, #2 and #3 are cold and warm idle screws. #4 is a A/c idle adjustment.