Question about Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Ge hotpoint fridge

Will not cool. I replaced the heater coil today and it seems to run and click and click, but seems to not be cooling after a few hours

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  • Snelsbells Aug 31, 2008

    Thanks for helping. My fridge has a click inthe back. And I let it run for 12 hrs. No help. I had it unplugged for 3 hours while I tried to plan to take out the compressor and coils, but decided to go to the front to explore. There I found the heater was bad. I got a new one and installed it. Could it be hooked up backwards? I think I put the red wire to the proper end and the blue wire likewise. Still no cooling. The click seems to come from the left side of the compressor. Can I replace the part on the L side of the compressor to get it started? I do need to clean the coils or condensor but it is hard to get to the front part. Have done the part I can reach. Help is very much appreciated since the labor day wkend is here and no fridge.

  • Snelsbells Aug 31, 2008

    The original problem was that the fridge quit cooling. Everything is spoiled or spoiling and its labor day. No company even calls back. I,m glad you are there to help. The fridge quit and water came out of the freezer since the icemaker was still on.(leaked) How do I replace the relay? Is it the blaack box on the left side of the compressor? Also does the compressor have a voltage after unplugging? I know it does on a A C unit, so I have been careful when around it. Thanks

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2 Answers

Thanks for the info. I will be replacing the relay and the overload. Is the cover on the relay hard to get off ? (on compressor) I had tried to pry it off and it didn't budge. Help on this would be appreciated very much.

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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When replaceing the heater, did you completly defrost the unit, meaning a clear, no frost on the evap coil? The other problem could be the bi-metal or timer. If the is a clicking sound, is from the compressor? Then unplug the unit for about 15 mins and see what it does.


















Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • Ken Roberts Aug 31, 2008

    Even if you reversed the wires on the heater it would still work. However, the clicking on the compressor indicates the relay/overload is not working. Yes you could try replaceing those parts. Also, if you replace the relay and still get the clicking sound you may have a bad compressor. It could have been coincidence that both parts were bad. Also, you didn't say what the problem wasthat yuo ogiginally had, only that you replaced the heater and the ref dosen't cool

  • Ken Roberts Sep 01, 2008

    Yes, the black box on the side of the compressor contains 2 parts. The relay and the overload. Both should be replaced. If you have the unit unplugged there should be no problem with a remaining electrical charge. On the AC units, they have a capacitor which retains the charge for awhile.

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Your defrozed cycle seems to be not working. Means there can be problem with heater , timer or defrzed board or defrozed thermostat. You have to open panel from coil to diagnosed this.

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Hi I have a GE model# DSS25KGRE BB fridge. The fridge runs constantly, meaning it cools until the coils get all frosted up. then the defrost heater kicks on and 'thaws' the coils. I have tried


OK, first check the condenser coils and fan to be sure they are free of lint and dirt buildup. Dirty coils will keep the unit from cooling correctly and the unit will run endlessly. Post back the results to me and we will take it from there.





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if you go here you can see the damper,fan assy. that's in the top of your machine in the fresh food side
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Damper/WR49X10091/1055112
this is a damper with another fan in it,when the t-stat calls for cold air the damper door opens to let the cold air in from the freezer and the fan in it blows the cold air around inside the fridge,if the freezer is fine and the fridge side is warm most likely this is your problem,part number WR49X10091 and it's around 130 dollars.unplug the machine,remove the light cover on the ceiling,remove the 1/4 inch screws and drop the light assy.remove thhe filter cover on the right side so you can remove the damper assy.pop off the cover on the piece that runs up the back center,remove the screws to the damper,read the instructions and put it back together again.should take you around 45 to 60 minutes.hope this helps and good luck.

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I have seen this issues with GE and HotPoints. I recorded video for You. Hope this will help. I replace usually both : main board and evaporator fan motor.

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Hotpoint refrigerator model hts22gbpbrwwhg310643 not cooling.


Hello,
Not cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

I think this help in solving the problem

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1 Answer

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Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this work.....


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1 Answer

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hi,on the back wall of the freezer,is there ice...if so you have a bad defrost sensor or heater...if froze up,when you remove panel...if ge replace white sensor on coil an heater at bootom...if regular frig ..replace round disc with two wires on copper tube...if iced up coil..deice with blow dryer,,,unplugg frig first...also check heater...hope it helps....michael doctor airr appl.repair 843-384-8474..call if need assistance..good luck..

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1 Answer

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Hi monica ,
the heating element in your freezer might be bad or the thermostat. that is way your freezer is not melting the ice inside and the noise that you hear it's the fan that prob' tuch ice or also is getting bad.
let me know if you need more help...

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1 Answer

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Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.

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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

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