Question about Air Conditioners
I have a Coleman AC unit ( Model# 6759A707 Serial# 068404495) for my RV. It would get cool but quit running. So I purchased a start and a run capacitor for the unit. When I first installed the capacitors the motor ran fine but then unit would not get cool. I switched the capacitors thinking that was the problem but it would not run at all. This is still the case even after I switched them back. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or other service information for this unit?
This could be the problem. It is more likely that the motor bearing is bad. Take the fan capacitor and have it tested. Or replace it, (under $20). Was the fan motor loud before this happened? Hopefully it is just the capacitor, the motor runs $60 - $100 and is a FUN to replace.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
You almost have it Look closer at the run capacitor. It has Herm, this is for the compressor, Com or C and F or Fan.
1 of your power wires is the fan speed so connect them accordingly usually black is hi, blue med, & red is low. You are "feeding" voltage to the selector switch on 1 side and coming out to the fan motor speeds.
Next you have a "Common" wire on your fan motor (this means its Common to all the other connections inside the fan motor to me. It is usually white. Connect this to the other line of power usually the Com on the capacitor unless it connects to a strip on the selector switch. But 1 of these 2 places will be the other side of your Power when plugged in. Lastly the brown it is usually the fan capicator only wire and it will connect to the fan "F" terminal on the capicator this terminal will not have any other wires connected to it.
This should make you a happy camper. Please rate me accordingly and good luck.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
SOURCE: Dometic Duo-Therm - 13,500 B.T.U. Model #3107541.009 - Serial # WA346967 - Yr. 1999-2000. Blower motor will not start. Replaced the start capacitor - no help. It will run by spinning the motor by hand
Yes you should try replacing the run capacitor.
Posted on May 08, 2009
It probably has a clogged condensate drain. Take off the cover on top the RV and check hoses or tubes leaving unit for debris or lint. Often this water is used to help cool the condenser so look for leaves pine needles etc in the pan. There may be a cover you can remove on the evaporator section that will allow you to clean the collection pan and hose or trough. Is it possible the RV is far enough out of level that the condensate can't "run uphill"? Always power off while working on this unit unless you are electric savvy. Good luck!
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Hi, its very possible the capacitor is open or shorted. Look it over to see if it is leaking oil or swollen or even deformed. When installing a new condenser fan motor, they should sell you a new run cap with it. Its probably a 5 uf 370 volt cap and you can have it checked to see if its putting out the right amount of micro farads. If it shows any of the signs I have said, the cap is bad and you will need a new one. Does the motor spin free? If you have a meter, a digital is best, you can check to see if the motor is open or shorted to ground. Set the meter on continuity, and check each lead to ground. If it is open, your meter will show no reading. If shorted to grd, you will have a reading or a beep if your meter has that option on it. This is how you will know. If it would be best for you to take off the run cap and take it in, they can check it for you where you bought the motor. Its not unusual to loose a motor in a year as they work hard in the heat. I have seen them last for years and for just a couple of months. Keep me posted.
Best of luck to you,
Posted on May 22, 2010
You need to borrow a clamp on style amp gauge, and check amp draw on black wire in box where hydro wires connect. (PLEASE, be careful, and if not experienced in this type of test, don't try it, due to likelihood of getting a shock. ) If it's the compressor kicking in that's causing the breaker to trip, and capacitor is good, then it's usually a problem with either low incoming (supply) 110-120 AC voltage, which will cause high amperage draw, or compressor on it's way out causing high amp draw. If it's only drawing 15-18 amps, and your tripping a 20 amp breaker, then breaker is getting weak.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
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