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I bought my fryer in November 2010 worked good for that Thanksgiving. Went to use it this year and thermocuople kept shutting off I used a brick to kep red button pressed in.
After turkey day I removed my thermocouple and installed a direct conection. I used a McMaster-Carr p/n 93590A220; Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Coupling Nut M8 Screw Sz, 1.25mm Pitch, 38mm Length, 16mm Width, $7.95. I'm not sure about the exact thread size the Brinkman hose end and brass fitting on burner uses. However, I found 8mm threads to be the closet. Use thread sealant and it works great!
If you have Hitachi model number 50UX58B, 60UX58B, 50UX58K, 60UX58K, 50SBX78B or 60SBX78B and you have the following symptoms you may want to grab a repair kit from www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kit that includes the parts and instructions to fix these models. This is a fairly common problem with the above model numbers. It is typically caused by a blown capacitor and pico fuse. Again, you can get a kit from the above address.
Here are the symptoms...
Primary Symptom: No Audio or Video. Power light will come on briefly then shut off. Other Possible Symptoms : The green LEDs on the circuit board light up for a few seconds then turn off.
I had this exact same problem. After a week or so it started responding to the remote control again. Then after a couple of days it stopped responding. This problem came and went for about a month, then one day the entire TV went dead. When I powered it on, the green light appeared for 2 seconds followed by a sequence of 6 flashing red lights that repeated. I brought my set in to a repair shop and they replaced the power supply board. That fixed the problem and now the TV powers up and responds to the remote control again. Total charge was $250. That was very disappointing for a $1,500 TV that was only 18 months old. I'm going to let Philips know how disappointed I am in their product!
Is the red light blinking or steady?
Have you tried to reset the tv?
If the TV will not respond to either the remote control or the front panel controls and/or will not power Off, press the SYSTEM RESET button with a pointed item like the end point of a paperclip. The TV will turn Off and the TIMER light will flash quickly for about one minute. When the TIMER light stops flashing, you may again turn on the TV. The changes you made the last time the TV was on before you used the SYSTEM RESET button may be lost, however, the changes that were previously saved are not lost.
DLPs have flow chart trouble shooting techniques to pinpoint exactly why your set isnt completeing the boot sequence. If you would like the service manual for your model let me know and i will post a link where you can purchase a complete one.
Unfortunately, you are describing the classic symptom of a bad picture tube. When the tube warms up a short developes in the neck of the tube, usually between the heater and cathode and this forces the tube to go full on, giving a bright flash of the color of the defective tube. The computer senses the extra current flowing through the flyback (high voltage) transformer when the tube is shorted and shuts the set down. The only solution is to replace the picture tube, but the Sony tubes are relatively inexpensive (about $175 for the entire tube assembly including sealed coolant) and they are very easy to replace and realign, but of course this must be handled by someone with experience.
Your convergence output IC's have either shorted out or opened up, either way they will have to be replaced and possibly a resistor or two. One distant possiblity is the DCU or the Convergence Yoke, but most likely the IC's. You will probably want a tv repairman to do the repair as there is some soldering to do and some paste/ IC's to install/ calibrate. A repair like this could run from $300 - $500 for IC's depending on who does the repair, The Yoke or DCU would cost a couple hundred more.