Question about Philips 60PP9352 60" Rear Projection Television

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Convergence when i try to set the red convergence, i see two crosses. i put one cross on top pf the other. when i try to set the blue convergence i only see one cross, although I do see a blue tent around the cross ,also i can move the blue tent right to left and left to right. when i look through the back of the set i can see all three tubes working . Thank you for your help Chris Bates Picture has lost its' snap always looks like it is a little washed out. There is a very light greenish halo around some images against a dark background. I though it might be dust on the lamps but after reading the posted complaint I may fit into the same problem. I have not even figured out how to get a glance inside to assess the dust possibility. What is advised.

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  • hansjr Aug 30, 2008

    I am a little confused. One person says it is no great deal to change the coolant and another says it is a major endeavor. I am reasonably capable but would not like to spend a couple of hundred and end up scrapping a TV. Is there some definitive way to see if the co0lant is actually the culprit? How does the front panel release on a Philips 60PP9352?

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  • Philips Master
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You have a convergence problem.  Here are some of the most common symptoms. 

Screen looks 3D
One or more colors can't be adjusted when when using the convergence menu. 
Screen is bowed in but stationary.

Solution: 
You need to replace the convergence chips and convergence resistors.  Check the site http://www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kit for your exact model. The kit inlcludes a photo instruction guide, original Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors,  etc. Everything you need to fix it yourself. 

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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  • Master
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Good Day

Two different concerns; 1.) The crosses are there to adjust the Convergence, when they don't line up and the movements are limited, the TV's Convergence Circuit has failed. It is normally just Convergence IC's (STK's) that have failed.
2.) The halo around images is the indication that the CRT's COOLANT (fluid) is contaminated.The fluid must be changed. Most TV's have more than one CRT COOLANT that has become that way. IN BOTH CASES THESE ARE NOT EASY REPAIRS. I would recomend that you call an Authorized Service Center and come out and give a written estimate before you decide upon the repair, each will cost between $450.00 to $750.00 depending location. Good Luck, big IRISH.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

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  • Master
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Things you need:

  • Soldering iron with a fine tip and fine solder (rosin core only, never acid core! I used .022 inch)
  • Flux (if desired, I didn't use any)
  • Desoldering materials (I used copper braid desoldering wick)
  • Isopropyl alcohol (preferably 95% or better, for cleaning the board when done)
  • Thermal grease (normally used for CPU heatsinks, I used Artic Silver)
  • Masking tape (thin)
  • Felt-tipped marker
  • 2x STK392-120 IC's
  • Hex-type screwdrivers or bits (I think they are called security bits)
  • Multimeter for testing the nearby resistors
  • Digital camera to record your work and help you put things back together
I recommend that you read this completely before starting, so that you know what's coming up and can gather anything else you think you might need that I've forgotten or neglected to list here. :) Preparation:
  1. Buy two STK392-120s. Check my Links below for a dealer I had good luck with, or just search. Don't look at the 150s, 180s, or other newer models. Some people report success, but from the specs I've seen these parts are not perfectly compatible. When I'm tearing apart the back of a huge TV, I'm not taking any chances.
  2. Practive soldering and desoldering if you haven't done this before or in a long time. It had been almost 20 years since I'd used a soldering iron, so I did some practice in the days leading up to this with an old graphics card that I was willing to throw away. There are some great sites out there (see my Links below) that can show you how to solder, desolder, and fix soldering issues.
  3. Buy good ICs, don't buy generics. For just a few dollars more, you'll get a better part that will last longer. From what I've read, the Sanyo's and Panasonic's are good choices, but there are probably others.
Now let's get started!
  1. Remove the back cover from the TV (just the electronics cover, not the entire back of the TV!). Remove the black bracket that holds the RCA and other jacks as well as the black plastic bracket that holds the cables out of the way. There are different size screws used here, so keep them labeled or separated in a useful way.
  2. The only board you will care about for this repair is the one of the left side. There are a few connections between it and the center board to watch for, though. Slowly begin unhooking cables, labeling each cable and the corresponding plug-in spot on the board. Use the tape and marker. I started at “A” and worked my way up to “X” if I remember correctly, but you could use whatever pattern you like. There are 20+ cables (hence A – X), so take your time and get it right. Take pictures along the way. You will need to unscrew the vertical board at the top left to get further along, and you will eventually need to remove the large plastic “bridge” running above the center of the board. This one has screws at the base in front of and behind it, so it's a little tricky to get out.
  3. Pop all of the attachment boards off the mainboard. Press the three clips on the side of the board and pop it out. Carry it to your workbench of choice.
  4. Remove the clips that hold the ICs against the heatsink. Desolder the ICs and dispose of them. Since they were already dead, and I was fully committed at this point, I just clipped all of the IC pins with a small pair of diagonal pliers (****) and threw away the old ICs. Then I flipped the board over and desoldered each pin, pushing the remnant down through the hole so it dropped off the board to the bench. I had great luck with the desoldering wick, it sucked the solder right out of the joint and the pins pretty much fell out. Some took a little wiggling, but nothing was too difficult. After all the pins were out, I checked and cleaned the holes with the soldering iron (quickly).
  5. Flip the board back over and clean the heatsinks well. Line up the new ICs and make sure that the pins drop into the holes properly. Sometimes they get a little bent from shipping or your own handling, so line them up (gently). Apply a thin layer of thermal grease to the back of the new ICs. I spread mine with a razor blade, something that has worked well for me in the past doing CPU installs in computers. Drop each one into place, then use the clip to secure it against the heatsink. This will allow you to flip the board again and do your soldering without needing anything fancy holding things together.
  6. Slowly and carefully solder each pin. A good solder joint should look like a little “Hershey kiss.” Be sure not to run over onto adjacent pins and bridge the joints. I didn't have any trouble here, so I can't comment on how you would fix that.
  7. Once you're all done, clean the back of the mainboard with alcohol and a toothbrush to remove and flux or other gunk. Wipe it down and dry it thoroughly.
  8. While you're here, you might as well check the resistors. There are several large resistors around the ICs. Grab your multimeter and check their resistance. If you don't know how to read a resistor (it had been a while for me, too), check my Links below for some good charts.
  9. Now for the fun part-- put it all back together! Do everything you did to take it apart, but in reverse order. I put a laptop right next to me with my digital pictures on it to help, but you may not have that luxury. Take your time, make a checklist, and work through it. Refer to your pictures along the way to be sure. Try not to bump the CRT guns or the adjustment screws on them while you're working.
  10. Once you have it all back together, leave the back off and fire it up. Let it warm up for a bit and then check it out. Make sure you plug things in to the various inputs to see them work. I made the mistake of looking at the menus on screen, thinking all was well, and closing it all up. When I wheeled it back in place and hooked up all of my equipment, I discovered that only my HD input worked, nothing else! I had to open it back up and look around carefully until I found a small cable that wasn't seated properly. Once that was in, it all worked well.
  11. Don't be disturbed if the convergence is still off, it just needs to be adjusted (and it can be now). After a good long warm-up with plenty of bright colors, select the convergence menu. I reset mine back to factory defaults, then went through the multipoint convergence for both red and blue and lined things up again. You really should have the TV warmed up well, or the convergence will just drift off once it does get there.
Hope this may help; DON'T FORGET TO RATE;

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

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I have a Sony KDP-57WS550 TV that has a convergence problem. Based on the symptoms, I'm not sure whether to indict the convergence ICs. In the convergence mode, I can move the red (and blue) crosses,...


With your TV in setup Use a small magnet to "move" the non converged Red, Blue, or, Green color lines "crosses" (each CRT will need to be adjusted in turn) by moving the magnet close to the offending Red, Blue or,Green color CRT yoke or, tube while observing the movement of the CRT color line "cross" in a mirror ( try several places near the tube and, several strengths of magnets:) a refrigerator sheet magnet works well (you can cut these with a scissors to make a better fit or, apply less magnetic "pull." by making them smaller (you may need more than one magnet per tube to fix each CRT's convergence) When you have each CRT tube's convergence right, apply some clear silicone adhesive to the magnet and, permanently affix the magnet to the now "fixed" CRT tube exactly where you placed the magnet to obtain the best convergence on the CRT.
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Click on the following link :

http://www.riddledtv.com/repair/RCA.html. Go to the following section

RCA 52" D52W25 ITC222 rca_d52w25_small.jpg
(2) (3) (4)
(5) Stretched Image at top and bottom edge very distorted. Reheat all the surface mount solder points on the Small Signal Board. Then realign the set including convergence menu. To enter service mode: power off the set for 10 sec, then hold down Vol- and Ch- buttons for 10 sec. See this link: Alignment Procedure (pdf)


Also download the Alignment procedure pdf file. Hope this will help you. Please let me know if the information was of any help to you or you need further assistance.

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Here is a walk through on how to set your convergence.

A quick and easy way to try and let the TV realign the convergence try this...

1) Turn on the TV and tune to a channel and let it warm up for about a half an hour to let everything settle into its normal operating mode.

2) Press the Flash Focus button on the original TV remote. A cross pattern will show on the screen and the process is complete when the cross turns white and the TV returns to the program you were watching.

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5) Use the arrow keys to move the [ ] to a cross that is not aligned. ***Note: start with crosses in the middle and work outward ****
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6) Press the + button to select the cross and the [ ] will turn red indicating it is ready to adjust the Red convergence.

7) Use the arrow keys to move the red cross on top of the white one or at least as close as you can get it.

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9) Use the arrow keys to move the blue cross on top of the white one or at least as close as you can get it.

10) Once you have aligned the blue cross press the + button again and the [ ] should turn yellow.

11) Repeat steps 5 through 10 until all the crosses are aligned. To exit back to regular programming press the menu button on the remote.


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